Dry vs Lubricated Lug Nuts

Joined
May 10, 2005
Messages
2,737
Location
Toronto, Canada
For a couple of years I had been struggling to undo lug nuts on my truck. I posted about it last year

Yesterday I switched to summer wheels and all the lug nuts came off without excessive force. So what changed?
The only change I made was not putting a small drop of oil on the conical seating face (lug piloted wheels). Even though I was using a torque wrench and torquing to 140 ft lbs, the oil was contributing to excessive clamping force.

Never thought a drop of oil would make such a difference.

The lug nuts went back on the studs smoothly, so I don't think I damaged them from my over-torquing. I am also glad I did not get a flat on the road in those two years, there is no way I could have undone the lug nuts with the tools I carry in my truck.
 
Last edited:
For a couple of years I had been struggling to undo lug nuts on my truck. I posted about it last year

Yesterday I switched to summer wheels and all the lug nuts came off without excessive force. So what changed?
The only change I made was not putting a small drop of oil on the conical seating face (lug piloted wheels). Even though I was using a torque wrench and torquing to 140 ft lbs, the oil was contributing to excessive clamping force.

Never thought a drop of oil would make such a difference.

The lug nuts went back on the studs smoothly, so I don't think I damaged them from my over-torquing. I am also glad I did not get a flat on the road in those two years, there is no way I could have undone the lug nuts with the tools I carry in my truck.
Dont lube the cone face- treads only (according to my Porsche owners manual and using "antiseize paste") YMMV
 
Never lube lug nuts. Definitely can cause overtightening, or worse, like backing off.

Had a customer come in with multiple loose and a few missing nuts. The owner oiled/lubed/greased/whatever at his diy rotation. The lug nut sealed and compressed the air within the nut which assisted in loosening them. Self backing air pressure!!!!

Scrub clean, brake/carb clean spray clean, and install very dry, and use a quality torque wrench, torque adapter, or even a torque stick.
 
In a past life, when I worked at a Tire & Lube, we were required to use a little anti-seize on every lug unless the customer specified not to. I installed thousands, maybe tens or thousands of lug nuts that way. Not one came back 'loose'. None.

For my own vehicles and trailers, if the lugs are rusty, yes, if not, no.
 
Some lug nuts and bolts require it, without it you can have a awful time removing them. This is a TSB illustration for one.
A small amount of anti seize will not them to loosen, no change to torque setting.

2019-09-01_11-26-14.jpg
 
Nuts are just as bad The threads only provide clamping force to the cone, even on Porsche aluminum wheels say no reduction of torque. The previous picture is from a TSB and did not specify any reduction of torque either so you loose that wager, lugs either bolts or nuts have a very wide torque range that they will still remain tight from a simple jack handle, cross wrench, hand tools and torque wrenches. Aluminum anti seize is an alternative for TA. Always use what the FSM or a TSB recommends in the areas they recommend it for unless there is a removal problem.

porsche_tsb_aluminum_wheel_nuts.jpg
 
Last edited:
Here in the salt belt, I've always felt that aluminum wheels would corrode between the hub and wheel. This white aluminum oxide would force the two dissimilar metals apart and realllllly make the lug nuts tight.

I've always used a 3m Rolock or similar to clean off the wheels/hub. Then used NoAlOx zinc paste on the mating surface of the clean alloy wheel.

Never any trouble since.
 
No mention of reducing the torque either I would guess. I have also seen oil recommended for some nuts like these.
Nope. But these are also the trucks that use the lugnuts with the free-spinning washer that goes against the wheel. Now do people actually do it? No idea whatsoever.
 
It depends on the vehicle. Do that on some cars and try to remove them a year later and you are worse than screwed properly torqued and all. Follow the FSM and any TSB.
 
In a past life, when I worked at a Tire & Lube, we were required to use a little anti-seize on every lug unless the customer specified not to. I installed thousands, maybe tens or thousands of lug nuts that way. Not one came back 'loose'. None.

For my own vehicles and trailers, if the lugs are rusty, yes, if not, no.
sounds like my experience too. The not lubing them because they will be overtorqued sounds like complete nonsense to me... :)
 
I never lubricate, grease, or anti-seize lug nuts. If you torque them to the proper torque, they won't be that hard to come off. Usually when a lug nut is difficult to break free, it's because someone went about 10 too many ugga duggas with a 1/2" impact.
We did the front brakes and rotated the tires on a friends 2002 Silverado. It had been in the body shop about a year ago. The front lugs were beat to heck and seemed to be way over 200 #ft, dunno for sure. Really really tight. The rears were perfect.
 
I use either a touch of grease or antiseize, whichever I have handy at the time. Never had an issue. Winter, summer, loaded, unloaded, all the same. I don't use a torque wrench either, just feel and some manual strength. Been doing this for years.

I have had to manually remove enough lug nuts that were rusted or jammed on to problem solve.
 
Back
Top