So everyone I've talked to says the 94-00 ram trannys suck. I knew that but why what seems to be their common issue? I've made my mind up on buying my buddies ram and it has 185k on stock tranny so I'm not worried about it going out . Just wondering what was wrong with them any help is appreciated thanks guys.
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what is the actual reason dodge transmissions suck
- Thread starter Dakota1820
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seems that they had a lot of electrical issues those years, switches ans solenoids that would fail and computer updates and or new computers were common, these issues left unchecked could kill a trans as well. but it was blown out of proportion like these things often do, especially when involving chysler...
They are made in Kokomo, Indiana.
The overdrive section is weak. If you tow turn off the O/D.
229 gets it^^^This is right on.
Manually keep it out of OD, and change the fluid and filter often. Most of them do well, I see a ton of them with high miles still doing good.
The biggest problem with Dodge is the engines are very powerful and the trans just doesn't have the nuts to stand up to it.
Manually keep it out of OD, and change the fluid and filter often. Most of them do well, I see a ton of them with high miles still doing good.
The biggest problem with Dodge is the engines are very powerful and the trans just doesn't have the nuts to stand up to it.
there is a ton of them in the allpar high mileage club with 200k+,so maybe the ones that are failing are treated differently?
but the single most problem is the check valve in the radiator cooler line. this check valve keeps the convertor full when off. they get plugged up and stop the flow of atf+4 especially if you hammer the shifts for long periods of time, or regularly over heat the atf.
most people just pull the check valve out and warm the trans up a little longer.
trans remanufactures (jasper) will not warranty your 46re with out a receipt for a new check valve from the dealer. and most rebuild shops eliminate the check valve.
you have to dig for info on it but it is by far the reason most 46re's meet an early death.
i forgot to add the reliabilty of the 46re got alot better when the atf+4 came out.
but the single most problem is the check valve in the radiator cooler line. this check valve keeps the convertor full when off. they get plugged up and stop the flow of atf+4 especially if you hammer the shifts for long periods of time, or regularly over heat the atf.
most people just pull the check valve out and warm the trans up a little longer.
trans remanufactures (jasper) will not warranty your 46re with out a receipt for a new check valve from the dealer. and most rebuild shops eliminate the check valve.
you have to dig for info on it but it is by far the reason most 46re's meet an early death.
i forgot to add the reliabilty of the 46re got alot better when the atf+4 came out.
I never trusted a computer to do the shifting for me.Much like drive by wire throttles,computers dont always know best.Give me hydraulic pressure activated shifting anyday.Heck,it stood up behind 440-Six Packs and 426 Hemis,and beat manual transmission cars drag racing back in the early 60s....and then today they cant make an automatic hold up...thats cost cutting and cheap materials,not engineering failure.Chrysler if given an endless budget could make a tranny that lasted 300K miles if they wanted to...seems they cant or wont.
My car makes more power than a stock 426 Hemi from the 'good old daze', and our trans holds up well up to 500 rwhp.
But DCX took this trans from Mercedes. So it's not their design.
But DCX took this trans from Mercedes. So it's not their design.
On the 41TE in the Dodge Caravans, the differential pin let's lose and basically self-destructs the transmission.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
My car makes more power than a stock 426 Hemi from the 'good old daze', and our trans holds up well up to 500 rwhp.But DCX took this trans from Mercedes. So it's not their design.
But in the "Good ole Daze" The Hemi was given special Transmissions like the 727 and huge Dana rear ends stock from the factory. The Hemi had to be one of the most amazing engines ever built in those "Daze" Ask early race car drivers that complained about the Hemi to Officials who in-turn ordered the Hemi (de-tuned) to make it fair.....
My car makes more power than a stock 426 Hemi from the 'good old daze', and our trans holds up well up to 500 rwhp.But DCX took this trans from Mercedes. So it's not their design.
But in the "Good ole Daze" The Hemi was given special Transmissions like the 727 and huge Dana rear ends stock from the factory. The Hemi had to be one of the most amazing engines ever built in those "Daze" Ask early race car drivers that complained about the Hemi to Officials who in-turn ordered the Hemi (de-tuned) to make it fair.....
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
So everyone I've talked to says the 94-00 ram trannys suck. I knew that but why what seems to be their common issue? I've made my mind up on buying my buddies ram and it has 185k on stock tranny so I'm not worried about it going out . Just wondering what was wrong with them any help is appreciated thanks guys.
My buddy Ed(RIP) bought new a '97 RAM 3500 because he was going to tow/haul/plow although he never did(illness). Only plowing his and my driveway during the winter is all the real hard work that this truck ever saw. Other wise the RAM was his only vehicle.
He went thorugh two trannys...the original, a second one and was on the third at 115K prior to becoming ill and eventually leaving us in 2005.
In 8 years/115K miles(14,300/yr), Ed mainly used the RAM as a transportation vehicle.
Knowing the history and haveing experience with Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth, I did all of the maintenance on the truck including the auto tranny, changing the ATF(during that time) with ATF+3 and then ATF+4 and filter annually. Still, the tranny(s) would fail.
So everyone I've talked to says the 94-00 ram trannys suck. I knew that but why what seems to be their common issue? I've made my mind up on buying my buddies ram and it has 185k on stock tranny so I'm not worried about it going out . Just wondering what was wrong with them any help is appreciated thanks guys.
My buddy Ed(RIP) bought new a '97 RAM 3500 because he was going to tow/haul/plow although he never did(illness). Only plowing his and my driveway during the winter is all the real hard work that this truck ever saw. Other wise the RAM was his only vehicle.
He went thorugh two trannys...the original, a second one and was on the third at 115K prior to becoming ill and eventually leaving us in 2005.
In 8 years/115K miles(14,300/yr), Ed mainly used the RAM as a transportation vehicle.
Knowing the history and haveing experience with Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth, I did all of the maintenance on the truck including the auto tranny, changing the ATF(during that time) with ATF+3 and then ATF+4 and filter annually. Still, the tranny(s) would fail.
Dakota1820
Thread starter
Where is this check valve?
Dakota1820
Thread starter
Should I never use the od?
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
where is this check valve?
it is in the transmission cooler line between the transmission and the radiator
Link with pictures:
http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram/182742-trans-check-valve-delete.html
where is this check valve?
it is in the transmission cooler line between the transmission and the radiator
Link with pictures:
http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram/182742-trans-check-valve-delete.html
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They put case save clips to hold the diff pin in and keep it from exiting the carrier. OF couse the failure mode is peg leg burn out or mommy getting the van stuck and slamming it and flooring it in and out of reverse. The spiders gall to the pin then the pin slides out of the carrier. up here after every snow storm, they come in, or used to LOL
Originally Posted By: hypervish
On the 41TE in the Dodge Caravans, the differential pin let's lose and basically self-destructs the transmission.
Originally Posted By: hypervish
On the 41TE in the Dodge Caravans, the differential pin let's lose and basically self-destructs the transmission.
I've got the same 46RE everybody whines about in the RAM trucks in my Jeep. It's a perfectly good tranny, with a few fixable exceptions.
In stock form, the OD unit clutch apply pressures are a bit low, and the OD unit cooling flow is inadequate. Thus, towing in OD is bad (although these can be fixed with valve body mods, which I've done to mine). In addition, the check valve in the tranny cooler line can fail and clog, causing the tranny to overheat.
If you want one of these to live a long, healthy life, make sure the governor pressure sensor and solenoid are good, make sure the TV cable is set correctly, and put in a shift kit to bump up the shift firmness, clutch apply pressures, and drill out the OD cooling flow hole in the VB a bit. The trannies were set up to shift soft for comfort, but not to last from the factory. Also make sure you add a nice, big cooler, and keep the fluid fresh.
My tranny is at 125k miles now, and shifts like a champ. I tightened up the TV cable a bit when I got it at 100k to firm things up a hair. Once I did the engine mods, I put an upgraded valve body in the tranny (at about 120k). I would now feel comfortable towing in OD on flat ground, and lock it out on the hills (I never used OD with a trailer stock). I also added an 11x11" cooler to it shortly after I got it, and then bypassed the radiator cooler.
In stock form, the OD unit clutch apply pressures are a bit low, and the OD unit cooling flow is inadequate. Thus, towing in OD is bad (although these can be fixed with valve body mods, which I've done to mine). In addition, the check valve in the tranny cooler line can fail and clog, causing the tranny to overheat.
If you want one of these to live a long, healthy life, make sure the governor pressure sensor and solenoid are good, make sure the TV cable is set correctly, and put in a shift kit to bump up the shift firmness, clutch apply pressures, and drill out the OD cooling flow hole in the VB a bit. The trannies were set up to shift soft for comfort, but not to last from the factory. Also make sure you add a nice, big cooler, and keep the fluid fresh.
My tranny is at 125k miles now, and shifts like a champ. I tightened up the TV cable a bit when I got it at 100k to firm things up a hair. Once I did the engine mods, I put an upgraded valve body in the tranny (at about 120k). I would now feel comfortable towing in OD on flat ground, and lock it out on the hills (I never used OD with a trailer stock). I also added an 11x11" cooler to it shortly after I got it, and then bypassed the radiator cooler.
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Dakota1820
Thread starter
I read that write up about removing the check valve. But some say it lowers pressure and you have to wait for the converter to fill up before going. Wouldn't it be better to just change the fluid and filter more often. The truck I'm going to buy has had filter and fluid changes every 25k
Yeah, all of the same stuff applies to the 42RE and 44RE as well.
Chevyboy - That's my opinion on the check valve as well. Removing it allows the converter to drain on shutdown, so you have to wait a couple seconds for it to refill before you can go anywhere. I still have the check valve on my Jeep, and it's got plenty of cooler flow with no signs of clogging.
Chevyboy - That's my opinion on the check valve as well. Removing it allows the converter to drain on shutdown, so you have to wait a couple seconds for it to refill before you can go anywhere. I still have the check valve on my Jeep, and it's got plenty of cooler flow with no signs of clogging.
Dakota1820
Thread starter
Hope this doesn't sound stupid but they just have the traditional in the pan filter? Do they have a drain plug to drain the torque converter ?
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