Would you use 0W30 instead of 0W20?

My 2019 Equinox (1.5L turbo engine) specs 0W20 oil. I really believe that 0W30 would be a better choice.

I find this fact quite interesting: When GM starting using these 1.5L turbo engines in 2016 the oil spec was 5W30. It seems to have magically changed to 0W20 in 2018. I have researched OEM GM part numbers for many of the internal engine parts used in these engines, especially the parts where oil clearances are critical. And from 2016 through at least 2019 the part numbers are identical. Looks to me like the popular reason/excuse given for switching from 30 weight hot to 20 weight being because of so-called tighter tolerances is -V--E--R--Y- questionable. How about this reason: C.A.F.E standards. -all striving for potential fractional increases in mpg.
I've been thinking this idea for two years .In my case , I bought a 2019 Cadillac XT4 with the 2.0 L turbo which uses 0w20.
My 2.0L LSY engine is not the same as the 2.0 L engines used in years past using 5w30. The same with your 1.5 L (LYX) turbo
is not the same as the 1.5L (LFV) turbo engines used from 2016 in Chevy Malibu, Buicks.
 
There is also evidence for Toyota engine used in 2012 Lexus es350. the same part number engine used in es350 2013, and oil is changed from 5w30 to 0w20, same part number for engine. So much about making smaller oil passages for thinner oils....
 
There is also evidence for Toyota engine used in 2012 Lexus es350. the same part number engine used in es350 2013, and oil is changed from 5w30 to 0w20, same part number for engine. So much about making smaller oil passages for thinner oils....
My 2000 4Runner has been "approved" for 5w-20.
 
I had a 2017 Equinox with the 2.4L engine that call for 5W-30. I now have a 2020 Equinox with the 1.5L Turbo that calls for 0W-20. I'm using 5W-30 because I'm a bit old school and I feel better with it.
 
That's true. But in my case years ago I had a cousin who lived in the Adirondacks and I spent weeks at a time during the winter at his house. There were times I'd get up in the morning and would see temps as low as -35F. He told me he saw it even colder than that on occasion. 0W30 was the better choice imo.
We've been pretty luck this winter, it's been pretty mild.
 
It takes around 30 minutes for the engine oil to get up to the normal operating temperature. Most wear occurs while the oil is warming up and too thick for the engine to minimize wear. I would rather use a 0-20 grade oil in a car spec'ed for a 30 grade oil because I am concerned about wear more than many others. And this is in hot sunny Florida!

AEHaas
 
It takes around 30 minutes for the engine oil to get up to the normal operating temperature. Most wear occurs while the oil is warming up and too thick for the engine to minimize wear. I would rather use a 0-20 grade oil in a car spec'ed for a 30 grade oil because I am concerned about wear more than many others. And this is in hot sunny Florida!

AEHaas
It’s not because it’s too thick.
 
I ran 0w-20 in a 2002 Silverado with the 5.3 with 150k miles on it for more than 20K miles and the UOA's showed the same results as when I ran 5w-30. The engine called for 5w-30. I was just curious as to what would happen if I ran a 0w-20. For me, nothing changed. This is also towing a 4klb 10'x20' enclosed trailer around.
 
It takes around 30 minutes for the engine oil to get up to the normal operating temperature.

In what car? Both our vehicles have coolant/oil heat exchangers (common on most modern vehicles) and the oil gets up to temp right along with the coolant, which happens extremely quickly on the RAM and within about 10-15 minutes in the weather we have presently (cold) in the Jeep.
 
I ran 0w-20 in a 2002 Silverado with the 5.3 with 150k miles on it for more than 20K miles and the UOA's showed the same results as when I ran 5w-30. The engine called for 5w-30. I was just curious as to what would happen if I ran a 0w-20. For me, nothing changed. This is also towing a 4klb 10'x20' enclosed trailer around.

Now my curiosity is peaked. Do you happen to have the UOAs?
 
Monitoring oil temps in my Tahoe has been entertaining. If I crank it up and just let it idle to warm up, the coolant will reach 205*F long before the oil does. In fact, the oil is typically still
My theory on why the oil temp stalls is condensation starts to evaporate out of the crankcase creating a cooling effect. Once that small amount of water is evaporated out, the temp starts rising again.
 
You just described half the threads on bitog lol
But that's good isn't it?
You get the best of both worlds and there's always something for everybody.

If you want to be entertained and give your eyes some exercise by rolling them around you have that.
If you want to get some education you know whose posts to read.
 
This is the latest. I'll try to find the earlier one. I thought I had run it longer but that might have been in another vehicle I use to keep track of for a friend.
Now my curiosity is peaked. Do you happen to have the UOAs?
1615818634626.jpg
 
This is the latest. I'll try to find the earlier one. I thought I had run it longer but that might have been in another vehicle I use to keep track of for a friend.

View attachment 49543
You know Rat, when I ran the ATM 10w-30 I used to get higher wear numbers than the 5w-30...thought it might have been a statistical anomaly until I saw your report.
 
In a GDI engine - no thanks to running a 0W30 as there are more VII's being used which can lead to intake valve deposits . I would run a 0W30 in a PFI engine but unless I am living in Minnesota I would not seek out a 0W as a 5W30 will do in most cases . I believe a 0W20 vs. a 5W20 becomes a bit more interesting in terms of base oils used .
 
In a GDI engine - no thanks to running a 0W30 as there are more VII's being used which can lead to intake valve deposits . I would run a 0W30 in a PFI engine but unless I am living in Minnesota I would not seek out a 0W as a 5W30 will do in most cases . I believe a 0W20 vs. a 5W20 becomes a bit more interesting in terms of base oils used .

On the other hand, if HTHS is the critical consideration and 2.6 cp is the minimum (as other have posited) and typical of virgin 20-weights, what happens to this value when the 5+% of fuel dilution common in DI/TGDI engines occurs? As we have almost no reports of intake valve deposits on recent engines, maybe HTHS is the bigger concern? Beats me…
 
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