Would you continue using Mannol?

I knew someone that once worked for Mobil in the UK is sales. They told me of the very high profit margins in Mobil 1 when sold to distributors etc. So I suggest that perhaps a cheaper product may be very good if not the very best, despite a much cheaper price. It is very difficult to judge oils as they are used as problems may only appear years later. If you do not want to subsidise ad and marketing budgets, perhaps Mannol is a good enough product for most users that just baby their car along within speed limits. If you have a M3/M5 or similar then perhaps not worth taking any risk at all with the oil.
 
Nigel Bull said:
I knew someone that once worked for Mobil in the UK is sales. They told me of the very high profit margins in Mobil 1 when sold to distributors etc. So I suggest that perhaps a cheaper product may be very good if not the very best, despite a much cheaper price. It is very difficult to judge oils as they are used as problems may only appear years later. If you do not want to subsidise ad and marketing budgets, perhaps Mannol is a good enough product for most users that just baby their car along within speed limits. If you have a M3/M5 or similar then perhaps not worth taking any risk at all with the oil.
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. if the oil is a problem then it is for all engines,cheap or m5..i dont know why people think that driven in speed limits will not create a problem for oil if its of bad quality.or i dont know why people think that everyone who drives a small engine drives slowly and a driver with a M5 drives to the limit.
a bad oil is bad for any engine
 
svenson said:
. if the oil is a problem then it is for all engines,cheap or m5..i dont know why people think that driven in speed limits will not create a problem for oil if its of bad quality.or i dont know why people think that everyone who drives a small engine drives slowly and a driver with a M5 drives to the limit.
a bad oil is bad for any engine
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What is a bad oil? Oils are far better than 30yrs ago with black sludge and definitely shot after 6k miles. Semi synth oils made a big difference and engine wear became far less of an issue as a result.
We now have a situation where engines if correctly manufactured far outlast the body and electrics on most cars, so running cars during the last years of their lives as the body rusts out on the very best oils is clearly wasting money.
One of the most important roles of engine oils is to carry contaminants in suspension so regular oil changes are as important as using the very best oils.
M3/M5's when used flat out place far higher thermal demands on lubricants than grannies on the shopping run, when water retention is far more of an issue.
I have used Mannol on 1.9 VW PD engines where the cam loadings are far higher than normal without issue whilst knowing if the correct ads are missing problems with cam wear will show up pretty dam quickly. So the additives that work appear to be there for that engine at least.
I have also used it on 1.4TDCI Foed engines. They sound very happy and without issue(unlike old Pinto engines that rattled and complained when the oil had lost its protection).
I also as you would hope being on here change it regularly at the recommended but not the 20k miles 'long life' intervals.
I say all this as many on here are quite anal in their oil preferences and usage. Oil can only do so much in helping a poorly manufactured or maintained engines. I would far rather have a Honda running on Mannol than a JLR running on the very best oil.
Finally I use the very best CAR oil on my BMW K75 motorcycle as it runs very, very hot even though it it renowned as a long lasting engine as it does really push the envelope of an oils performance as it has a specific output over twice that of my cars.
 
Nigel Bull said:
What is a bad oil? Oils are far better than 30yrs ago with black sludge and definitely shot after 6k miles. Semi synth oils made a big difference and engine wear became far less of an issue as a result.
We now have a situation where engines if correctly manufactured far outlast the body and electrics on most cars, so running cars during the last years of their lives as the body rusts out on the very best oils is clearly wasting money.
One of the most important roles of engine oils is to carry contaminants in suspension so regular oil changes are as important as using the very best oils.
M3/M5's when used flat out place far higher thermal demands on lubricants than grannies on the shopping run, when water retention is far more of an issue.
I have used Mannol on 1.9 VW PD engines where the cam loadings are far higher than normal without issue whilst knowing if the correct ads are missing problems with cam wear will show up pretty dam quickly. So the additives that work appear to be there for that engine at least.
I have also used it on 1.4TDCI Foed engines. They sound very happy and without issue(unlike old Pinto engines that rattled and complained when the oil had lost its protection).
I also as you would hope being on here change it regularly at the recommended but not the 20k miles 'long life' intervals.
I say all this as many on here are quite anal in their oil preferences and usage. Oil can only do so much in helping a poorly manufactured or maintained engines. I would far rather have a Honda running on Mannol than a JLR running on the very best oil.
Finally I use the very best CAR oil on my BMW K75 motorcycle as it runs very, very hot even though it it renowned as a long lasting engine as it does really push the envelope of an oils performance as it has a specific output over twice that of my cars.
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The big issue with Mannol is that you dont know whats in the jug. When they lied about approvals what makes me then belive what API/ACEA standards and viscosity i buy in the jug of Mannol ?
Better stay to manufacturs that really have an approval.
 
If you have a £40k car or drive"spiritedly" I agree, but remember you are paying through your nose for that peace of mind. For an awful lot of us, Mannol with at least reasonable performance(as it must be as there is little if any anecdotal evidence to the contrary) does the job.
For many on here they really are smoke blowers when looking into details that are often based more marketing hype than truth.
When I met my wife to be, she had run her 1000cc Citroen AX for the 30k miles from new without ANY attention to the oil. I was horrified and as I drained it took a sample for analysis. It turned out to be absolutely fine with only a comment about water levels..........It was tipping down as I took the sample, so no surprises there! I would not advocate doing that, but it shows how we often miss the wood for the trees.
 
I do wonder why they seem to have such bad issues with sludging in The USA, most of them believe it's crazy to run 10,000 miles let alone 20k between changes. Could it be ACEA oils are just much better than their API rated equivalents?
 
you give plenty of dollars or euros ,i dont know where are you from,for gas every week and you are cheap on oil..50 dollars for a junk,a week"s gas at least...its your engine,olive oil is cheaper ,you can use that..
 
Mannol is not necessarily a bad brand but a bit shady, some of their oils I've seen have good VOAs and UOAs while others do not.
Why don't you give Comma a try, i think you are in the Uk? Also cheap and has a better reputation imo.
 
FCD said:
Mannol is not necessarily a bad brand but a bit shady, some of their oils I've seen have good VOAs and UOAs while others do not.
Why don't you give Comma a try, i think you are in the Uk? Also cheap and has a better reputation imo.
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svenson said:
i hear smith and allan is a serious blender there..and cheap
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Johnson Johnson said:
Yes, I've also heard the same about Millers?
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All three very well respected brands over here that I do or have used. My only annoyance is they don't carry much in the way of approvals. Recently used Comma MVATF to service the TF80SC in my Wife's Volvo XC70.
 
They have some interesting oil additives however, like the Mannol Ceramo Ester, comes in a 250 or 300ml can and it really is Ester plus a good shot of Moly and Zinc , have seen UOAs done with it and yes it does appear to work, i think the whole can treats up to 5L of oil.
 
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