That’s a good idea to let the oil jugs warm in the sun.While I was changing the filters and doing the engine oil change, I left the jugs of hydro fluid in direct sunlight, shaking them a couple times to help distribute the heat. After opening the vent port on top of the hydro, it took less than 10 min per side to fill.
I have ZT3100s and it’s definitely tight to get a ratchet and socket in there to remove the vent plug; I found the S-shaped wrenches make it much easier for both angle of access and vertical clearance.
WIX WL-10102/Napa Gold 400102/HG 52114 PRICE!!
- Thread starter Pablo
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Did you cut the old filters?
No. I figured factory fill, doanwanna know. Are these known to grind out a lot of...chunks?
My filters were extremely clean almost new looking
That's what figured. I obviously was not worried - I will cut these two open after 400+ hours.
Now do these filters help me from ramming sprinklers along the fence line? I need that.
Nah, not really. The Amsoil hydro fluid I drained with 135 hours looked like I could have poured it back in the bottle, slapped a new cap on it, and sold it
I've got a Hustler zero-turn with Hydrogear 2800's. I have been using Stens 120-738, but last time I wanted to buy some the price had jumped to about the same price as the HG ones. So I kept looking for a better deal and I came across these that are branded LASER and are imported by a company in PA. These are specifically made to replace the HG 52114. These are sold by a few mower specialty places online at about $5 bucks each. Looks like a quality filter, but definitely made in China. It has a metal core and looks good from what I can see from the outside. I haven't cut one open yet, but I will on my next change. It does have an ADBV, but that doesn't seem to matter. It states it's rated for 25 microns. I've been running these for about 5 hours and so far the mower performs just like always, so I don't think the ADBV is restricting the flow. Anybody recognize who might be making these?
Next time I change the filters, I'm taking the rear wheels off. Just a side note after swapping tires. 
Having an ADBV could cause a problem. Every aftermarket replacement and the Hydo-Gear do not have an ADBV.
I realize it really doesn't need an ADBV since the filter is at the bottom of the Hydro. But I really don't see a reason it would be a problem unless it restricts flow, which would also be a problem for every filter that uses an ADBV. So far, I've found only positive comments from users of this filter. Time will tell.
Hydro-Gear doesn’t specify an ADBV for their filters. Therefore, reputable aftermarket suppliers do not have them in their direct replacement filters. I would not use those Laser filters. I would use Hydro-Gear, WIX/NAPA, Rotary, or Stens.
I think deleting the ADBV was a way to charge more since they are "special". I can see no reason the ADBV would cause a problem. In fact, the mower works as good as ever with them. But the ADBV was not my question.
Have any idea who actually made this filter?
I have no idea who made it.
The Hydro-Gear filter and the direct aftermarket replacements are hydraulic filters and not automotive engine oil filters. There is no need for an ADBV.
I think I already said that in my very first post.
I already said that. Who are you trying to convince? This is a direct replacement. It even says so right on the filter. These hydros use motor oil, not hydraulic fluid, so the main difference from an engine oil filter is the filter media catches finer particles. This filter is rated at 25 microns just like the HG filter. You haven't shown any reason why the ADBV would be a problem except because you say so.
Fine! Do as you like. I’m on my fourth zero turn.
I’ve had a machine with the EZT.
I’ve had a machine with the HG-3100
I’ve had a machine with the HG-3400
I currently have a machine with the HG-5400
I won’t run that garbage brand on mine.
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Nobody asked you to. And since you can't cite a valid reason why the ADVB would be a problem, I say it's a moot point. The bigger question is how will the filter perform over time. I'm sure Laser has sold many thousands of these and if they were really as bad as you think, the word would be out all over the mower forums. But so far, only positive comments from actual users.
And to answer the OP's question, the reason the OEM/Wix etc filters are so expensive is simply greed. There is nothing special about them that would make them cost 2 or 3 times the price of other similarly constructed filters.
I have a ZT3400 with 800 hours. I purchased the rotary filters and would not put them on. When I looked down inside - the filter size was small and it had a bypass valve. With the standard filter either in Wix or Hydro Gear and 20w50 my transmissions would wine occasionally.
My last change I used Valvoline mototcycle oil half 10w40 and half 20w50. One has a viscosity of 15 and the other has a viscosity of 20. That should come out to about 17.5 average and that is close to the other 20w50 oils. The motorcycle oil is made for engine and transmission gears run together. Next on the filter I used a Wix 51394. It fit the same and for the last 200 hours my units have been quieter and have seemed more responsive. My next change I am sticking with this as I am very happy with it. I also use this ratio in an older hydrogear on a riding mower. Use at your own judgement. Just trying to help.
My last change I used Valvoline mototcycle oil half 10w40 and half 20w50. One has a viscosity of 15 and the other has a viscosity of 20. That should come out to about 17.5 average and that is close to the other 20w50 oils. The motorcycle oil is made for engine and transmission gears run together. Next on the filter I used a Wix 51394. It fit the same and for the last 200 hours my units have been quieter and have seemed more responsive. My next change I am sticking with this as I am very happy with it. I also use this ratio in an older hydrogear on a riding mower. Use at your own judgement. Just trying to help.
I used the Amsoil hydrogear fluid (20w50) and it worked great, changed at 135 hours and it looked brand new, even though the little overflow tank didn’t. There was a little whine with the Amsoil that was not there with the original HG fluid.
I switched to HPL after convincing Dave to make something suitable, and since then I think for @Drew7a HPL made a 5w50. I likely won’t change or sample this fluid til at least 200 hours use time, but if I do change it I will likely go with the 5w50 version unless Dave says there’s a reason to keep 20w50. I do know that the HPL eliminated the whine that Amsoil had, and it’s as quiet as with the HG fluid.
Again, I’m not knocking Amsoil because it performed very well; but no matter how much I bled the hydros it just would not get as quiet as HG/HPL. Never had any operational issues either.
I hate paying $30+ for a bottom-barrel WIX; I was fine when they were $7-8 pre-pandemic. I’ll probably go back to HG and pay the premium. I agree that the Laser brand is risky, and since replacing both hydros is nearly the same cost as a new mower, I’ll stick with filters that are identical to the OEM.
I’ll leave the experimentation to those with more money than I have
The last time that I needed to use a spin on filter for my former mower, I bought the Stens equivalent filters. There wasn’t a anti drain back valve in them. I have Hydro-Gear 5400s on my latest machine and it uses cartridge filters. My machine currently has NAPA 20W50 conventional and it’s performing well.I used the Amsoil hydrogear fluid (20w50) and it worked great, changed at 135 hours and it looked brand new, even though the little overflow tank didn’t. There was a little whine with the Amsoil that was not there with the original HG fluid.
I switched to HPL after convincing Dave to make something suitable, and since then I think for @Drew7a HPL made a 5w50. I likely won’t change or sample this fluid til at least 200 hours use time, but if I do change it I will likely go with the 5w50 version unless Dave says there’s a reason to keep 20w50. I do know that the HPL eliminated the whine that Amsoil had, and it’s as quiet as with the HG fluid.
Again, I’m not knocking Amsoil because it performed very well; but no matter how much I bled the hydros it just would not get as quiet as HG/HPL. Never had any operational issues either.
I hate paying $30+ for a bottom-barrel WIX; I was fine when they were $7-8 pre-pandemic. I’ll probably go back to HG and pay the premium. I agree that the Laser brand is risky, and since replacing both hydros is nearly the same cost as a new mower, I’ll stick with filters that are identical to the OEM.
I’ll leave the experimentation to those with more money than I have
Trying to buy a filter "identical" to the OEM is a tricky thing. Sweezy72 mentioned the Rotary filter has a bypass valve, unlike HG, yet has been recommended by another member. I've used the Stens filters in the past, but really have no idea if they are as good/better/worse than the OEM. I think there is too much reliance on branding with oil and filters and it's probably intentionally so. I My trust in brands has been shaken by the WIX buyout and it seems no one is certain of where WIX products are made from day to day. I'd like to think the construction and materials that go into making a filter should matter more than a brand.I hate paying $30+ for a bottom-barrel WIX; I was fine when they were $7-8 pre-pandemic. I’ll probably go back to HG and pay the premium. I agree that the Laser brand is risky, and since replacing both hydros is nearly the same cost as a new mower, I’ll stick with filters that are identical to the OEM.