Will MC5000 make 10K OCI?

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No. No. No. Get yourself something good to run that long. Id never run a dino for 10k. Get a high quality synthetic and change it like every two months. Get you some Pennzoil Ultra and youll be set. I know you drive a lot of miles quick but you cant be cheap about your poor car.
 
Originally Posted By: yaris0128
No. No. No. Get yourself something good to run that long. Id never run a dino for 10k. Get a high quality synthetic and change it like every two months. Get you some Pennzoil Ultra and youll be set. I know you drive a lot of miles quick but you cant be cheap about your poor car.

??????????????
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The filter does not hold any where near 1/2 a quart. Try 4-6 oz max.

The belt driven Hondas can do what Honda recommends. And yes Mobil 5000 can do 10,000 miles with your type of driving. Personally I'd change the filter everytime but where it is I can see why you'd want to leave it on.

My last OCI was 11k (went a little long due to being on vacation and a lot of things going on) with Pennzoil Conventional. And that is with a Chain that trashes the oil. Am I concerned? Not a bit.

Bill
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
The filter does not hold any where near 1/2 a quart. Try 4-6 oz max.

The belt driven Hondas can do what Honda recommends. And yes Mobil 5000 can do 10,000 miles with your type of driving. Personally I'd change the filter everytime but where it is I can see why you'd want to leave it on.

My last OCI was 11k (went a little long due to being on vacation and a lot of things going on) with Pennzoil Conventional. And that is with a Chain that trashes the oil. Am I concerned? Not a bit.

Bill


WOW! a comprehensive reader!
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Thanks Bill. And your right about the WIX 51356 not holding squat for oil, it's tiny. I think everyone just sees the "10k OCI" and "conventional" and freaks without taking into consideration my operating conditions and the engine. Also, 3.5qts doesn't sound like a large capacity but the 5.7l in my truck is nearly 3.5x larger than the Civic's 1.7l and only holds 1.5qts more(5qts). Maybe I need to post a 10k or even 15k UOA on MC5K in this car.........or even 20k on some PU. I may be up to it
 
I agreer with HTSS, Why not buy a good synthetic and change it 50 to 100 percent longer than the book recomends on standard dino. Also if it were me and i drove like that, i would probably run the 5w30 or 10w30. Cold starting is not going to be an issue for you and it will most likely curb the oil consumption. To your question though, If the book calls for 10 k dino changes, M5000 would be at the top of the list for me. Try the Mobil Super 5000 5w30 and you will be good to go and most likely not have as much oil consumption. Just a guess, but worth a try.
 
It will do it easily.

There are several 10k runs on dino in the used oil analysis section that turned out just fine.
 
Without a doubt it will do it. But this depends on your car. Cleaned up PCV etc and its in good running condition?

As stated, the engines are notoriously easy on oil, there have been plenty of used oil analysis on dino for close or past the 10k marker. MC5k is also one of the better conventional oils out there.
 
Originally Posted By: yaris0128
No. No. No. Get yourself something good to run that long. Id never run a dino for 10k. Get a high quality synthetic and change it like every two months. Get you some Pennzoil Ultra and youll be set. I know you drive a lot of miles quick but you cant be cheap about your poor car.


Dumping synthetic after 6400-8000 miles?? Waste of money....

He's got the right engine and darn near the perfect driving conditions to go 10k on dino. Easily.
 
Everything looks good except the iron level. Slightly high
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I think the relevant question isn't whether or not the oil will last 10k, and more is it worth any risk at all to push it that hard? You're saying it costs you $2 a quart, plus a few more bucks for a filter. Even halving the OCI, you spend like 6 cents/day instead of 3 cents per day (I'm pulling those numbers out of the air, but the point is the cost difference in real world terms is negligible).

Good oil + good filter + conservative OCI = healthy engine that will last a long time. Those 3 things are the cheapest and easiest preventive maintenance you can do on one of the most expensive components of your car.

In the UK they call this kind of 'thriftiness' "penny smart pound foolish;" one of my old economics profs used a better term that's stayed with me long after university: fool's economy.

-Spyder
 
why wait till it's 1 quart low to add the make up oil? If it's down 1/2 quart at 5K, add 1/2 quart. At the 10K oil change, it will be down another half quart. It may not be linear consumption, but it will surely follow useage a pattern you can use to your advantage so you are only adding 1/2 of make up oil during the entire interval


steve
 
AJ, this is not a VW, this is a Honda.



In my view, you have two logical choices:

Either using MC5000 for a 10k miles OCI with a top off at 7k miles,
Or using M1 for 15k miles OCI with a top off at 7k miles.

If choosing the MC5000 line, you could change the filter every other OC as stated in the owner manual (I even do that for cars that are not recommending it),
If choosing the M1 line, then I believe that you will want to change the filter every change.

Do your financial cost calculations and decide what better suits you.
 
I don't think running MC5k for 10k is logical
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5k and swap both it and the cheap filter, or 5k on the oil and the filter every other change if using something a little higher end.

I know Hondas are very easy on oil. I also know how awful my ex-gf's 2001 Civic sounded after a steady diet of routine OCs changed at roughly 15,000 km (which is close to 10k miles).

Doing it once or twice won't kill it. I just think, as I said before, that when you break the cost differential down that its playing fool's economics. And any harm done will take a long time before the symptoms start to show. Given the meager cost difference, what is the logical justification for running any dino on a diet of 10k OCIs?

used oil analysis have shown that even good synthetics don't always hold up well over that interval. Although they are pretty hard to find as those who do this also tend to be the type to consider used oil analysis a waste of money (there are exceptions, which is why you can find a few if you dig a bit).

-Spyder
 
Many of us will let the oil drain from the pan for an hour or so to get try and get the last drop out, but then leave old oil in a filter that's reused? For the 2 cents a day a new filter cost, I would always change the filter. That's my 2 cents worth on the subject.
 
I'm with tig on that one. No reason to re-use a filter. I'd feel better knowing I've got that much more fresh, clean oil in there, and with the small size of so many filters, knowing that I've got a clean filter to start with.
 
Do you know how much oil is left in the engine after draining it for hours?
BTW, I use an extractor and don't spend hours changing oil for my car.

Oil filters are made to last longer than most of people think (same thing for oils).
I don't rationally see the point of changing it when the manufacturer tested for years and determined that it was not necessary that it even wrote it in the owner manual.
Even if it's cheap money, it doesn't make it useful.

That was my 2 cents of rationality (I am INTJ so I cannot help it, sorry).
 
Hey I agree why is a change around 5 or 6 difficult to do????
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Originally Posted By: daves87rs
No. With 100% freeway it could be possible, but I'd rather not take the risk with a commute like that.
 
I run my filters twice when doing conventional oil changes on my 02 accord with never having a problem.. All of those here showing how cost is so low, why on earth would anyone do it, or all the dirty oil left in... Honda recommends in the owners manual changing the filter every other oil change.

I would trust my owners manual far more than the comments here about the oil filter, and also I would trust the owners manual on OCI length, and oil to use.. if you detour from that this is a great place to thrash out answers, or all the wrongs etc.. but the basis of your OCI should be the owners manual !!

Again I have been running filters for two consecutive OCI's "leaving all that dirty oil in the motor when doing so" I have also run many many runs of conventional to 10k and over by accident with still a clean engine and zero problems... I like you have a long commute, so with the engines being easy on oil, the long commute being a good basis for a longer OCI I wouldn't worry about anything... by the way just what is the filter filtering out of the oil I have to ask which makes it so imperative to the engine at short change intervals ?
 
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