Why the huge obsession with adding MMO?

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I'm not sure how many people realize that the contents of MMO are intentionally removed from motor oil in the refinement process prior to going into the bottle.

You are adding contaminates that were previously removed by the manufacturer.
 
I've pasted this a few times for those wondering what MMO is. Some pretty good UOA reports with it in the oil as well. It is not intended for extended drains, but for normal OCI's the reports I read were pretty good.

I would follow the suggested OCI for a vehicle and not run MMO if you plan on extending an OCI beyond what the mfg suggests.

70% Light Aromatic Oil (Pale Oil)
- It is a Naphthenic Oil, so while it oxidizes faster than a Paraffinic oil, it does clean and dissolve sludge and carbon well and cleans up after itself from any oxidation. serves as base oil as well. [Naphthenic oils have more solvency and are more polar (they are attracted to metal more), but oxidize faster.

29% Mineral Spirits
- Cleans Varnish very well. General cleaner. Also acts as an antioxidant.

38 parts per million (ppm) Boron
- AW/EP agent, friction reducer, antioxidant

900 ppm Phosporous
- AW/EP agent

1/2% 1, 2 ortho-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

1/4% 1, 4 para-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

Oil of wintergreen - for the scent
- Not just for the cent, is also a cleaner. may aid lubricity.

Red Dye - for the color
- well this one just colors the stuff
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
I'm not sure how many people realize that the contents of MMO are intentionally removed from motor oil in the refinement process prior to going into the bottle.

You are adding contaminates that were previously removed by the manufacturer.
The oil mfgs don't know what they are doing anyway
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I've pasted this a few times for those wondering what MMO is. Some pretty good UOA reports with it in the oil as well. It is not intended for extended drains, but for normal OCI's the reports I read were pretty good.

I would follow the suggested OCI for a vehicle and not run MMO if you plan on extending an OCI beyond what the mfg suggests.

70% Light Aromatic Oil (Pale Oil)
- It is a Naphthenic Oil, so while it oxidizes faster than a Paraffinic oil, it does clean and dissolve sludge and carbon well and cleans up after itself from any oxidation. serves as base oil as well. [Naphthenic oils have more solvency and are more polar (they are attracted to metal more), but oxidize faster.

29% Mineral Spirits
- Cleans Varnish very well. General cleaner. Also acts as an antioxidant.

38 parts per million (ppm) Boron
- AW/EP agent, friction reducer, antioxidant

900 ppm Phosporous
- AW/EP agent

1/2% 1, 2 ortho-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

1/4% 1, 4 para-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

Oil of wintergreen - for the scent
- Not just for the cent, is also a cleaner. may aid lubricity.

Red Dye - for the color
- well this one just colors the stuff



great info! Saving it
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
I'm not sure how many people realize that the contents of MMO are intentionally removed from motor oil in the refinement process prior to going into the bottle.

You are adding contaminates that were previously removed by the manufacturer.


Just curious, which contaminants?
 
i would not dare add it to the oil. fortunately modern oils can tolerate the abuse, so the engine will not self destruct. however, for those of you who think it is so good, i place this challenge:

completely drain the crank case, and refill with 100% MMO. run engine for 5000 miles. THEN do a UOA. just adding tiny bits of poison to an oil, and finding you did not kill the engine proves nothing. some people have even run 100% kerosene in the crank case, for 15 minutes, and the engine manages to survive. same as just taking a few shots of whisky, as opposed to a couple of forty ouncers. the two shots, just makes you stupid. the couple of forty ouncers will kill you. the same way you would not feed a horse whisky, the same reason you should not put anything other than 100% SM oil in the crank case.
 
now you're asking it to do something beyond its original intentions. it is meant as an additive, not a direct replacement.

it has some lubricative properties but its thin so it mixes well with gas or oil.

if our modern oils are capable of tolerating these abuses from MMO, then why does it matter if you add any to your crankcase or not? you have little to lose by doing this, your oil might drop by one grade (ex 30wt to 20wt) but thats not a big deal. where is the harm?

if it were that harmful to an engine, i would think we'd know about it by now.

btw have you even used MMO or are you just bashing it because it doesnt seem like it would work?
 
Originally Posted By: panthermike


Just curious, which contaminants?

Naphthenic oils and solvents. You want the least amount of these and greatest amount of paraffinic oil you can get.
 
Originally Posted By: Captain_Klink
i would not dare add it to the oil. fortunately modern oils can tolerate the abuse, so the engine will not self destruct. however, for those of you who think it is so good, i place this challenge:

completely drain the crank case, and refill with 100% MMO. run engine for 5000 miles. THEN do a UOA. just adding tiny bits of poison to an oil, and finding you did not kill the engine proves nothing. some people have even run 100% kerosene in the crank case, for 15 minutes, and the engine manages to survive. same as just taking a few shots of whisky, as opposed to a couple of forty ouncers. the two shots, just makes you stupid. the couple of forty ouncers will kill you. the same way you would not feed a horse whisky, the same reason you should not put anything other than 100% SM oil in the crank case.


Over 35 years using it here and lots and lots of success stories. It cleans engines, as advertised, quiets noisy lifters as advertised, and even has some impressive UOA's, that are not advertised. It works as advertised when used as advertised. I'm still waiting to hear about all the engines it ruined in the past 85+ years. I enjoy reading threads, good or bad by people who have actually tried a product. Reading stories about what people think or want to believe w/o out actually trying a product is really a waste of time since they really have no experience with it. Again JMO. .

If you want to talk about poison talk about Coumaden. It kills rats in a strong dose, and yet when used as prescribed it can save a persons life preventing strokes, heart attacks, and blood clots. Use as directed no problems. When used as directed MMO can save an engine from costly repairs, and Coumaden can save a life.
 
Originally Posted By: Captain_Klink
i would not dare add it to the oil. fortunately modern oils can tolerate the abuse, so the engine will not self destruct. however, for those of you who think it is so good, i place this challenge:

completely drain the crank case, and refill with 100% MMO. run engine for 5000 miles. THEN do a UOA. just adding tiny bits of poison to an oil, and finding you did not kill the engine proves nothing. some people have even run 100% kerosene in the crank case, for 15 minutes, and the engine manages to survive. same as just taking a few shots of whisky, as opposed to a couple of forty ouncers. the two shots, just makes you stupid. the couple of forty ouncers will kill you. the same way you would not feed a horse whisky, the same reason you should not put anything other than 100% SM oil in the crank case.


im assuming that you have never used the stuff
 
Captain_Klink - Of course that would do damage. MMO by itself is too thin to offer much protection. Mixed with heavier oil, however, it's a different story.
 
I'm surprised I haven't heard the fringe stories yet. The typical horror stories that people claim that MMO will do, such as: destroying O2 sensors, burning up the catalytic converters, fouling the spark plugs, damaging the engine bearings and resulting in voided car warranties. These claims are usually spouted in an effort to prove that MMO can't be trusted, but surprisingly, I haven't heard anybody say that any one of these things ever happened to their cars.

Vic
 
Originally Posted By: VicL
I'm surprised I haven't heard the fringe stories yet. The typical horror stories that people claim that MMO will do, such as: destroying O2 sensors, burning up the catalytic converters, fouling the spark plugs, damaging the engine bearings and resulting in voided car warranties. These claims are usually spouted in an effort to prove that MMO can't be trusted, but surprisingly, I haven't heard anybody say that any one of these things ever happened to their cars.

Vic


Probably because there aren't any. 5 pages so far on this thread, front page in the main bitog forum, and the best its detractors can come up with is "I've never used it, because I think its useless, and I'm afraid it'll kill my car if I did." Or similar variants.

Yet on the other side, lots of people who have used it and have only positive things to say about it. Yet that is discounted too by the naysayers because it is too subjective, or purely anecdotal.

I don't think the one's who have tried it are being given credit for their "subjective" experience. I know when I first bought my car, I tried a few snake oil cleaners before I hit on one that worked. I noticed no difference when I used them and wrote them off as what they are. When I did use something that worked (Regane), most of what I noticed was subjective: better acceleration and response primarily. The lifter tick that vanished before I finished the treated tank (and has never come back), isn't quite so subjective but difficult to "prove" online.

But I could tell the difference from the snake oil I used compared to the product that worked, before I used the latter (and therefore there was no "placebo effect" as I went into each experiment with hopefulness tainted by a healthy dose of skepticism).

I will be using MMO soon. Only for lack of easy availability here and I would have used it already. Too many success stories not to try it, and nothing from the opposing aisle that doesn't begin, or include, "I've never tried it, but...". Not very persuasive to the rest of us.

-Spyder
 
i love the stuff so much, i went out and bought a gallon jug of it at walmart for $12. that should last me a while.

Photo0359.jpg
 
Look,boys. You don't stick foreign objects in your eye,do you? So don't stick foreign objects in your engine. Really,how hard is that?
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Look,boys. You don't stick foreign objects in your eye,do you? So don't stick foreign objects in your engine. Really,how hard is that?


eyedrops? contacts?

so far no one has had any experience with it doing any harm, and there have been plenty of experiences with it doing good, so i dont see why there is such a problem with it with some people.

once again, have you tried it before?
 
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
Originally Posted By: Captain_Klink
i would not dare add it to the oil. fortunately modern oils can tolerate the abuse, so the engine will not self destruct. however, for those of you who think it is so good, i place this challenge:

completely drain the crank case, and refill with 100% MMO. run engine for 5000 miles. THEN do a UOA. just adding tiny bits of poison to an oil, and finding you did not kill the engine proves nothing. some people have even run 100% kerosene in the crank case, for 15 minutes, and the engine manages to survive. same as just taking a few shots of whisky, as opposed to a couple of forty ouncers. the two shots, just makes you stupid. the couple of forty ouncers will kill you. the same way you would not feed a horse whisky, the same reason you should not put anything other than 100% SM oil in the crank case.


im assuming that you have never used the stuff


But the same thing could be said about the additives already in oil, if you ran 100% moly it might ruin the engine, but added to the oil it's a good thing. Just because 100% MMO might ruin the engine doesn't mean an additive portion isn't a good thing.

John
 
MMO is not a foreign object or even a foreign substance. It's a fuel and oil additive that works very well. I use MMO and will continue to use it as long as they keep making it. Thousands of other people use MMO too. We would not use it if we did not receive good benefits from it. Each person is free to try it or not try it and make their own decisions about MMO.
 
i will go ahead and make the statement that IF you have been the only owner of your vehicle and IF you stayed on top of the oil changes and used high quality oils (like synthetics) then no, there PROBABLY isnt anything that will need to be cleaned out of your engine, like sludge.

however a majority of us arent the only owners our vehicles have seen, and of course we (being a part of an online oil forum in the least) will take care of the vehicle far better than most dealerships even would, so MMO cant hurt.

oh and btw, if you ran 100% moly, 100% base stock, or 100% additives in your crankcase, it wouldnt work out well either.
 
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