And we're considering a 25% tariff on anything above a 20W.
Ehhh not really no. Plenty of Xw30/40 incl Euro are blended in U.S from your own crude as far as I am aware.
VAT is applied on everything reglardless of country of origin.
Why Do Knowledgeable Folks on Here use 20 wt Oil
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Ehhh not really no. Plenty of Xw30/40 incl Euro are blended in U.S from your own crude as far as I am aware.
VAT is applied on everything reglardless of country of origin.
The warranty on my Mazda is up tomorrow I will be using 5W or 10W-30 after that if not 0W-40.
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Somebody always finds a loophole.
I can confirm at times GM will do a UOA, usually looking for an internal coolant leak. Starting viscosity is not something a UOA is good for. Obvious neglect is found during tear down. A spotless engine would show proper maintenance 99% of the time.
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I worked at dealerships for many years. The manufacturers rarely want an analysis, unless the dealer suspects something is off.
Most times the service records are relied upon.
I've heard many times that manufacturers use an algorithm that will raise red flags, when there's an anomaly to look into with any claim.
There are always "requests" that the manufacturer's engineering depts. have in place, looking for potential problems.
I have seen more VOAs done on the oil the dealer is pumping, than UOAs in warranty claimed engines.
My used (new to me) 2017 F150 has the 5.0 in it and the oil fill cap says 0w20. Two previous owners, the last one before me proudly exclaimed he used PUP 0w20 and changed the oil when the OLM got to 20% life. He said he did most of the oil changes at Walmart.
I gambled and bought the truck anyway. The odometer had 57,000 on it, now its at 98,000 so it didn't blow up because of the use of 0w20. I however use a higher viscosity, that hasn't caused it to blow up either. My personal belief is the higher viscosity does protect certain elements better over time. But real world application is perhaps a better indicator. I generally don't short trip my vehicles and I do routine maintenance as required. Oil and filter at 5 thousand intervals and regular filters as needed. That may be the key to longevity. I also use 93 octane gas but that is a different discussion.
I think EPA cafe numbers are the driving factor with most new vehicles. So, use what's called for in the manual or use what you like. Just maintain it and drive it till its used up/gone or they outlaw the internal combustion engine altogether.
I gambled and bought the truck anyway. The odometer had 57,000 on it, now its at 98,000 so it didn't blow up because of the use of 0w20. I however use a higher viscosity, that hasn't caused it to blow up either. My personal belief is the higher viscosity does protect certain elements better over time. But real world application is perhaps a better indicator. I generally don't short trip my vehicles and I do routine maintenance as required. Oil and filter at 5 thousand intervals and regular filters as needed. That may be the key to longevity. I also use 93 octane gas but that is a different discussion.
I think EPA cafe numbers are the driving factor with most new vehicles. So, use what's called for in the manual or use what you like. Just maintain it and drive it till its used up/gone or they outlaw the internal combustion engine altogether.
My opinion is using higher grade than recommended is like wearing football pads and a helmet to go grocery shopping. Yeah it's probably technically "safer" but also totally unnecessary.
The only difference is that others will think you crazy walking like this, but what goes under my oil cap nobody knows
Can agree on this. Mostly advisable for short tripping or folks who don't drive enough miles for OCI to be time based rather then milage based.
That said, my engine (5cyl Volvo) was developed with 3.5+ 30/40 visc. in mind. Only got 2.9HTHS 30 and and updated oil cooler later purely for emission/mpg reduction. Which I couldn't care less about driving as little per year as I do.
It’s like concealed carry. You hope to never need it but it’s there if you do.
Why don't we just have a sticky with one thick vs thin ongoing thread?
I wish they would just go away. One will never convince the other.
And I hear you, but the argument is not going to go away, and it's at least it's all in one place.
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I worked at a busy Honda dealer in Florida from 1986 until 2014.
During that period the oil changed from 10-30, to 5-30, to 5-20, to 0-20.
I saw no rise in internal engine failures.
Moved outside Chicago in 2014 - same product line, same engines, saw many more engine component problems.
VTCs, chain tensioners, and camshafts fail there like we never saw in Florida. (Not a lot of cams though)
This is what I witnessed with thousands of customers, full time at a repair shop. With the full spectrum of care, and driving habits.
With the data I've experienced I would say cold temps are a harder test on oil, than hot temps.
Using a 20w is fine, unless you're doing something unusually harsh on the oil.
During that period the oil changed from 10-30, to 5-30, to 5-20, to 0-20.
I saw no rise in internal engine failures.
Moved outside Chicago in 2014 - same product line, same engines, saw many more engine component problems.
VTCs, chain tensioners, and camshafts fail there like we never saw in Florida. (Not a lot of cams though)
This is what I witnessed with thousands of customers, full time at a repair shop. With the full spectrum of care, and driving habits.
With the data I've experienced I would say cold temps are a harder test on oil, than hot temps.
Using a 20w is fine, unless you're doing something unusually harsh on the oil.
I joined BITOG because, when I bought the Camry, I was getting divergent opinions from local techs on what oil to use. The experts suggested grades from 0W-20 to 10W-40. After spending time here I decided that 5W-30 best suited the combination of engine design, driving style, and my temperament. Temperament played a big part in my decision. I'm convinced that preferences based on past experiences and what makes one feel comfortable play a big role in deciding what oil to use as technical data, the owner's manual, and engine design.
I dont know why it needs to be an argument, people just need to accept that you can use more than one viscosity, it does not need to be a binary choice. Just use what you prefer.
Ingrained from all the CAFE regulated US Manuals. Won't go away. EU/ROW Manuals look the same nowadays.
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