Why Do Knowledgeable Folks on Here use 20 wt Oil

Status
Not open for further replies.
I dont know why it needs to be an argument, people just need to accept that you can use more than one viscosity, it does not need to be a binary choice. Just use what you prefer.
There are still newer people coming to the website that don't know that.

And I'm not saying your wrong or trying to argue with you. I think it's just how it is.
 
20 - CAFE = 30 Grade minimum šŸŽÆ

Solve for CAFE:
CAFE <= -10

Impact on consumers in US:
In general, please move up at least one viscosity grade to compensate!
 

Why Do Knowledgeable Folks on Here use 20 wt Oil​


For the same reason the same folks might use a 40wt in a different application that "call" for 30wt.

Critical thinking is a kind of thinking in which you question, analyze, interpret, evaluate and make a judgement about what you read, hear, say, or write. The term critical comes from the Greek word kritikos meaning ā€œable to judge or discernā€.
 
UOA's can't be used for that purpose.

No, SAE 20 grade oils have been around since before WWII. I've seen Gray Marine engines with brass grade plaques on the final drive that listed SAE 20, SAE 30, SAE 40 and the intended temperature range for each grade in the engine.

No, the wider bearing changes were made to accommodate oil grades BELOW the SAE 20 threshold; below the 2.6cP HTHS limit, which is where design changes need to be made. It was Honda, Toyota, Nissan...etc that were experimenting with grades that weren't even ratified in J300 at the time, but had HTHS viscosities below 2.6cP, that discovered the need for wider bearings, along with surface coatings and other mechanisms to keep wear to an acceptable level.

There isn't a 3-6% improvement in mileage going from an xW-30 to an xW-20, it would be much less than that, based on what Mobil shared with their AFE oils.

As long as oil temperature is properly controlled (and many applications that call for xW-20 have heat exchangers for the oil to keep it in a specific temperature range), xW-20 is generally safe (it is, after all, spec'd by the OEM). However, some applications, with fuel dilution and poor oil temperature control, I wouldn't feel safe running an xW-20.

So, for me personally, it comes down to application. Just like I prefer an additive package with non-neutered AW chemistry.
Always look forward to Overkill's input...learn something every time!
 
Honda recommends 0W20 now?
I was looking at Supertech (*Walmart - Warren Oil - is this bad?) and Motomaster. Thoughts?
I have to do an oil change soon...like in the next few days.
 
Honda recommends 0W20 now?
I was looking at Supertech (*Walmart - Warren Oil - is this bad?) and Motomaster. Thoughts?
I have to do an oil change soon...like in the next few days.
Honda has been recommending 0w20 for a long time now. The oil cap on my 2016 Civic says 0w20 on it actually.
 
Having run 210K miles on a 2010 Prius with 0w-20 at 10 K OCIs I see no reason to be concerned. Another Prius in our stable has over 50K on 0w-20 with 10K OCIs. The latest Prius in the stable calls for 0w-16. I find myself wanting to go thinner on the latter two vehicles based upon what they run in Japan.
 
Honda recommends 0W20 now?
I was looking at Supertech (*Walmart - Warren Oil - is this bad?) and Motomaster. Thoughts?
I have to do an oil change soon...like in the next few days.
My cars get Supertech or Costco Kirkland 0W20 oil every 10, 000 miles.
 
If there were no CAFE 30 wt. would be recommended. I have no doubt that you will get satisfactory engine life out of 20 wt. But I also know 30 wt will provide better lubrication and the engine will statistically run longer. That it is not in dispute. So for me...the purist in me. will be changing out out the 20wt that came with my brand new Mazda CX-30 with 60 miles on the clock. I will take the efficiency penalty. I will go with the Valvoline 5W-30 EP.
 
If there were no CAFE 30 wt. would be recommended. I have no doubt that you will get satisfactory engine life out of 20 wt. But I also know 30 wt will provide better lubrication and the engine will statistically run longer. That it is not in dispute. So for me...the purist in me. will be changing out out the 20wt that came with my brand new Mazda CX-30 with 60 miles on the clock. I will take the efficiency penalty. I will go with the Valvoline 5W-30 EP.
Wow, the fear runs deep!
 
Wow, the fear runs deep!

Cough cough. CAFE brainwash runs deeper.

1740443133956.webp

1740443113138.webp


https://owners-manual.mazda.com/gen/en/cx-30/cx-30_8jr4eo20f/contents/07030400.html
 
Yes we understand that the differences in UOA analysis between 20 and 30 wt oil are slight. But we also know 30 wt protects better. The 3 factor Bearing Graph says that.

We also know that 20 wt. oil was first considered 20 years ago to improve gas mileage. It was shown that engines at that time would not last to 150 K miles as they would be required. So they lowered that requirement. And fast forward engines were redesigned with larger bearings and bearing surfaced to provide for less wear.

Still in light of this there is every reason to suspect that an engine will last longer over the longer haul and/or use less oil over that period by using 30 wt. oil. So do knowledgeable folks value the fact that engines will give 3% to 6% better mileage??

I might have use a 20w oil recently... 20W-50 that is. Red Line performance series. Didn't hurt economy at all.
 
Yes we understand that the differences in UOA analysis between 20 and 30 wt oil are slight. But we also know 30 wt protects better. The 3 factor Bearing Graph says that.

We also know that 20 wt. oil was first considered 20 years ago to improve gas mileage. It was shown that engines at that time would not last to 150 K miles as they would be required. So they lowered that requirement. And fast forward engines were redesigned with larger bearings and bearing surfaced to provide for less wear.

Still in light of this there is every reason to suspect that an engine will last longer over the longer haul and/or use less oil over that period by using 30 wt. oil. So do knowledgeable folks value the fact that engines will give 3% to 6% better mileage??
Because:

1) Manufacturer did testing and I would be doing gut feeling. If something doesn't work it would be my word against theirs.
2) They have lasted long enough to not have major problems, so I know probably at least it would work for 120k miles.
3) 20wt have been around for 15 years? longer? If it cause knocking and some sort of pinging issue it would have been known by now, or bearing issue, etc.
4) Something else in the car likely would break first, like head gasket? transmission? accident? rust? I don't know but the oil weight isn't the weakest link to me. I might use 30 or 40wt if I race my car but not daily driving.
 
I once put 5w20 Motorcraft syn blend in my 1997 Grand Am 2.4L. Why? Just to feel something haha. It was an old car and I was curious. It had about 170k miles on it at the time, and had horrendous wrist pin slap. I had it in the sump for most of an OCI, then sold the car with that oil in it. The people who bought it were… let’s just say that I don’t know if that car ever got another oil change. I saw that same car over a year later, still running.

I know this is anecdotal at best and that’s fine. But 20 grade oils have been ā€œrecommendedā€ for a very long time now, even in high-performance applications. In reality, it’s actually on the thick side of some new car recommendations, with increasingly more moving to 16 or 8 grade oil. The ā€œthick oil is always betterā€ mentality is becoming the new 3,000 mile OCI. In other words, old habits die hard.

That being said, I’ll still use a thick oil at times. I have a 2016 Explorer 2.3L turbo that is out of warranty, and I’m currently running an A3/B4 5w40 in it. The vehicle is worked hard and carries a load at all times, and I don’t have a warranty to worry about. And… I got the oil super cheap. But I’ve also ran a relatively thin 5w30 in it without hesitation. 5w30 is the recommendation in the manual. When my stash is used up I’ll probably end up using 0 or 5w30.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom