which oil filter should I choose for modified Honda?

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From what research I have done up to this point I have always been using the Fram Ultra. I change my oil every 2,000 miles but I want my new motor to stay as clean as possible inside. I was watching a video someone did on filters and here is a snippet from it.



I didn't know the Napa filter was that great

napa.webp
 
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Changing it every 2K? Are you doing short trips, constantly, or is this just because you want to? If it's the latter, just pick something half decent and run with it. I definitely wouldn't worry about filter capacity.
 
From what research I have done up to this point I have always been using the Fram Ultra. I change my oil every 2,000 miles but I want my new motor to stay as clean as possible inside. I was watching a video someone did on filters and here is a snippet from it.



I didn't know the Napa filter was that great

View attachment 256199

Stopsign32v
What's your application for this Oil Filter?
Vehicle, Oil weight, etc?
 
Changing it every 2K? Are you doing short trips, constantly, or is this just because you want to? If it's the latter, just pick something half decent and run with it. I definitely wouldn't worry about filter capacity.

Stopsign32v
What's your application for this Oil Filter?
Vehicle, Oil weight, etc?

500whp Honda B18 that see's 8,500rpms and the heat of a turbo.

Have been running 5W-40 but you guys talked me into running Mobil 1 Euro 0W-40
 
500whp Honda B18 that see's 8,500rpms and the heat of a turbo.

Have been running 5W-40 but you guys talked me into running Mobil 1 Euro 0W-40
That's pretty interesting
Would a bypass filter work with your Honda?
There's quite a bit of info on bypass filters on this Forum. I don't know much about Hondas. I've been running a dual bypass filter in my 5.4L 3v modular V8 on my 2011 Expedition for the last 9 yrs.
 
I wouldn't think so. While it sounds impressive, many Honda 4 cylinders turn that much RPMs from the factory and they don't have special filters.
Sure my VQ redlines at 6500, but the factory has no perspective it will be there much of its life, so they don't worry about the filter being in bypass for a few seconds here and there. It has little to do with being impressive.

At high RPM the pump is going to be be pushing at full pressure. The pump is likely going to be in bypass due to the pressure constraints, so possibly the filter will not be in bypass, but if it were, then it defeats the purpose of the filter entirely.

Again, I am not smart enough to know if the filter will in fact be in bypass, or if the oil pump will limit out before that happens, but that would be my first question.
 
Sure my VQ redlines at 6500, but the factory has no perspective it will be there much of its life, so they don't worry about the filter being in bypass for a few seconds here and there. It has little to do with being impressive.

At high RPM the pump is going to be be pushing at full pressure. The pump is likely going to be in bypass due to the pressure constraints, so possibly the filter will not be in bypass, but if it were, then it defeats the purpose of the filter entirely.

Again, I am not smart enough to know if the filter will in fact be in bypass, or if the oil pump will limit out before that happens, but that would be my first question.

High RPMs at wide open throttle, the factory pump will see 80-90psi
 
Bypass is at 95psi. You can shim the factory oil pump to increase the oil psi about 5psi, but mine isn't shimmed.
 
SuperTech. They are still good filters made in the USA, and cheap. They quit making the taller Honda filter though, I am not happy about that. All they have is the shorty version.
 
Changing at 2000 miles is way too conservative , that's your decision. . I would just buy a Supertech filter and oil and be done with it. Your engine will be fine with it.. You will not reap the benefits of anything better at your change interval.
 
From what research I have done up to this point I have always been using the Fram Ultra. I change my oil every 2,000 miles but I want my new motor to stay as clean as possible inside. I was watching a video someone did on filters and here is a snippet from it.



Don't confuse engine cleanliness with filtration effects relative to wear control. Two different topics.

Most any lube commonly used has a DI (detergent/inhibitor) as part of the additive package. This includes chemicals (various; depending on brands, etc) that have two functions:
- essentially cleaning what already exists
- prohibiting the accumulation by holding what is created and cleaned in suspension

The filter's job is to grab particulate. We commonly accept 20um as the threshold for efficiency ratings, so that a common frame of reference is used to compare/contrast performance. However, most "damage" is done to engine parts by particles 5-15um in size. While most FF filters can catch some of that stuff, it's not really that effective, especially towards the low end.

What most folks don't know is that "dirty oil" is what appears when two things accumulate; soot and oxidation byproducts.

Soot starts out super-duper small; often around 40nm in size or so. (average approximation; see inserts below) That's nano-meters, not micro-meters. Soot would have to grow 100x larger, via agglomeration, to just get to 4um. Soot amalgamates; it co-joins with other soot particles. The "inhibitor" part of the additive package is designed to prevent soot from doing this. Over time, the add pack gets overwhelmed, but that isn't going to be a problem at 2k miles of use. At 20k miles, it may be of concern for some lubes. At 2k miles, it's just not an issue as long as a decent well-formulated oil is used.

Oxidation byproducts come in varying sizes, but are typically the result of two things interacting with the lube; heat and time. If your engine oil is getting too hot for too long, it can be a problem. The only way to know for sure is to take a sample of virgin oil and get an oxidation value, then run it for X miles and take another sample.


However ...
Given that you are using a top quality lube, and your OCI is 2k miles, then NONE OF THAT ABOVE IS IN PLAY !!!
Your oil is not going to degrade fast enough in 2k miles to have any substantial concern about soot levels, oxidation byproducts, etc. There's not going to be anything large enough in size, or large enough in quantity, to have any bearing on "cleanliness" relative to filtration. And I really mean it ... no over-the-counter full-flow filter is going to make a hoot's worth of difference in 2k miles regarding how "clean" your engine is going to be, given the lube and OCI you've chosen. The oil you've selected is very heat-stable. And the 2k mile OCI is going to flush out the tiny soot well before it ever becomes large enough to be caught by a filter.

If you're concerned about wear, then any decent filter which is >95% efficient at 20um is going to be fine.

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https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2015-01-1075/
https://saemobilus.sae.org/papers/e...itions-a-dedicated-hybrid-engine-2023-01-7003
 
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Personally, on the Honda engine I would use the Purolator PBL14610, Purolator is made by Mann-Hummel, same parent as Wix filters. Otherwise, I would use a Baldwin B1431 oil filter, made by Parker Hanafin Corp. Baldwin is a heavy duty, heavy can filter. Performance by the chart you have above would be better on the Purolator Boss filter, in some criteria. Baldwin's B1431 filter is their larger version of their standard Honda filter. Just my opinion.
 
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