which oil filter should I choose for modified Honda?

Personally, on the Honda engine I would use the Purolator PBL14610, Purolator is made by Mann-Hummel, same parent as Wix filters. Otherwise, I would use a Baldwin B1431 oil filter, made by Parker Hanafin Corp. Baldwin is a heavy duty, heavy can filter. Performance by the chart you have above would be better on the Purolator Boss filter, in some criteria. Baldwin's B1431 filter is their larger version of their standard Honda filter. Just my opinion.

Any reason you chose that Purolator? Looking up on their website this engine calls for PBL14461
 
I wouldn’t use that YouTube vid to pick a filter. Some of those filters are clones yet have different results. Stick to official ISO 4548-12 results.
 
Any reason you chose that Purolator? Looking up on their website this engine calls for PBL14461
Well, I guess I screwed it up on the application. I thought he was talking about the basic Honda automobile engine. Mine is a 2015 Honda CRV with the 2.4L engine. Sorry.
Does a Purolator PBL14610 fit on Honda CRV? I asked Co-pilot.

Yes, the Purolator PBL14610 oil filter is compatible with the 2002-2023 Honda CR-V. It's designed to provide maximum engine protection and can handle up to 20,000 miles between changes.

Is there anything else you'd like to know about your Honda CR-V?
 
Honestly I’d go to every AAP you can find and buy as many OG Fram Titanium FS7317’s as you can find before they’re gone. High flow, no louvers, high efficiency, wire backed, non leaking bypass leaf spring.

 
Honestly I’d go to every AAP you can find and buy as many OG Fram Titanium FS7317’s as you can find before they’re gone. High flow, no louvers, high efficiency, wire backed, non leaking bypass leaf spring.


What's so special about that over Mobil 1, Purolator Boss, Fram Ultra? This Titanium Fram is $16, so not exactly a cheap filter.
 
In that case he may be SOL finding an OG.
My local dealer had some of the 15400-PCX-306 in stock and not that expensive. I just know from all the years that reading and drooling about the S2000's and the crazy RPM. The PCX filters have metal band on both sides of the gasket to make contact and get torqued tighter. They don't sell many obviously. I read some using the K&N filters as it also has holes at end to add the safety wire.

I figure if Honda made one for the higher flow, higher RPM motor that might be a good choice.

It is too wide to fit on my '08 CRV and '17 Accord with 2.4L's. It hits on the side. It does fit my '19 Pilot.
 
My local dealer had some of the 15400-PCX-306 in stock and not that expensive. I just know from all the years that reading and drooling about the S2000's and the crazy RPM. The PCX filters have metal band on both sides of the gasket to make contact and get torqued tighter. They don't sell many obviously. I read some using the K&N filters as it also has holes at end to add the safety wire.

I figure if Honda made one for the higher flow, higher RPM motor that might be a good choice.

It is too wide to fit on my '08 CRV and '17 Accord with 2.4L's. It hits on the side. It does fit my '19 Pilot.
Looks to me the Tokyo Roki made filter would be my choice. Very specific for this engine.
 
The filter's job is to grab particulate. We commonly accept 20um as the threshold for efficiency ratings, so that a common frame of reference is used to compare/contrast performance. However, most "damage" is done to engine parts by particles 5-15um in size. While most FF filters can catch some of that stuff, it's not really that effective, especially towards the low end.

If you're concerned about wear, then any decent filter which is >95% efficient at 20um is going to be fine.
This why I always go with a high efficiency oil filter, and have touted many times why higher efficiency is better than not. Some filters that are ISO 4548-12 rated at 99+% @ 20 microns are doing around 80% efficient at 5 microns. So catching 80+% of those particles below 20 microns could certainly be beneficial in the long run, especially for people doing longer OCIs. 95% @ 20u is typically my lower end cut-off for efficiency.
 
Personally, on the Honda engine I would use the Purolator PBL14610, Purolator is made by Mann-Hummel, same parent as Wix filters. Otherwise, I would use a Baldwin B1431 oil filter, made by Parker Hanafin Corp. Baldwin is a heavy duty, heavy can filter. Performance by the chart you have above would be better on the Purolator Boss filter, in some criteria. Baldwin's B1431 filter is their larger version of their standard Honda filter. Just my opinion.
M+H says much different with official ISO 4548-12 test specs than that BR chart ranking leads one to believe about the Boss efficiency.
 
So you're saying that the Purolator Boss isn't as good as they try to say?
The M+H Spec Sheets have been posted for the Boss, and all are pretty much ISO 4548-12 listed as 99% >46 microns ... like this one below - see section 4.2 & 4.3 in the Spec Sheet for ISO 4548-12 efficiency specs. Ascent (member here who owns an ISO test lab) got around 99% @ 35u for a Boss. So if you believe BR ranking, it would have to be more like 98-99% @ 20u to rank like it did. That's why there's something going on with the BR ranking testing IMO, or the filters with leaf springs are leakers that skew the ranking data and make the Boss look better.

If you do short-ish OCIs, it probably won't matter that much. The longer the OCI, the more important filter efficiency becomes.

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TBH i didnt read all the responses...im sure it was well covered but just in case.

The filter is not really going to influence engine cleanliness as much as the oil choice and interval will.
 
Oil filter quality changes over time as companies shift production/materials etc.
I might be looking for more flow if I were you.
I have a couple of Ford engines that are 2.5HP per CI and I just run FL820 filters on them. I change to oil on those at about the same interval as you do.
 
I might be looking for more flow if I were you.
Most big name oil filters all have dP vs flow curves that are only a few PSI +/- of each other with hot oil. At 8 GPM of oil flow (that's about what most engines will be doing near redline, except for those crazy Subaru pumps), the dP is typically only 4 to 8 PSI (+/- 2 PSI from the average of 6 PSI) with hot oil. So using on filter over the other isn't going to matter with respect to oil flow to the engine.
 
Honestly I’d go to every AAP you can find and buy as many OG Fram Titanium FS7317’s as you can find before they’re gone. High flow, no louvers, high efficiency, wire backed, non leaking bypass leaf spring.

Well Glenda, I took your advice and cleaned out our local AAPs of every Titanium 7317 they had. Unfortunately it's just a half dozen, but still will be a nice add to the stash of PLXLs and Microgard Selects I'm accumulating.
 
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