- Joined
- Aug 9, 2022
- Messages
- 137
Which oil cleans more: HPL or Valvoline Restore and Protect?
- Thread starter 53' Stude
- Start date
It's part of a song lyric.
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2022
- Messages
- 137
.
What genre? Era?
Gary Numan, down in the park. late 70s Id say
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2022
- Messages
- 137
.
I’m a retired jazz/commercial musician of 48 years and thousands of gigs. I had to look up Gary Numan. Not a genre I would be familiar with.
I don't know of any others in that genre. But I like the album for some reason although I'm definitely more into rock.
Which is??
LOL.
His most famous song is called... "Cars."
Unless Valvoline is committing fraud by publishing fake pictures that is impressive. I have no experience with either to comment if one is better than the other.
I’m at 3700 miles on my 1st run of hpl on a car that had idemitsu every 5k since new and sits at 42k. The oils darkened a bit, but nothing dramatic. Chances are my engine wasn’t dirty to begin with so I have nothing eventful to bring to the table.
I agree. It's highly unlikely. Would be more likely if it was some small no name blender with no testing facility.
In my opinion it seems to be great at cleaning the tenacious piston deposits, but not much else can be said about it in terms of volatility, oxidation resistance, shear stability etc. Point being, it seems very good for its intended purpose but beyond that it's unknown.
That's what I'm going to do next oil change with my sludgy dodge Dakotas engine.
Simply put, the above bolded comment is why, after 2,300 miles of the factory fill on my ‘23 Highlander Hybrid 2.5L, I am now using HPL premium(+) PCMO for 10k mile OCIs.
And I don’t lose sleep at night because of my choice of oil brand, viscosity, or OCI.
Do you toss or turn any with flashes of "denied warranty" due to no official API certification?
Uh, no!
First, one would have to have a valid claim under warranty and having receipts showing compliance with the 10k mile or less OCI should suffice, assuming the issue is even oil related.
Secondly, if the issue WAS oil related I doubt they’d argue it was the quality of the oil that caused the mechanical failure versus the fact the mechanical PART itself is what likely failed, regardless of the oil in use.
What would likely stir the pot is the Toyota reps standing there scratching their heads and saying “How could this have failed when it looks so clean and shows such minimal wear?”
Now, considering the hour at hand, I’m off to slumberland to potentially lose sleep over more critical matters such as, “will the world finally get a grip on reality and ditch the slobbering over anything related to Taylor Swift?”
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
I noticed since the very start of using HPL oils (not engine cleaners they sell) the oil does not turn dark nearly as fast as any other motor oils did that were used in the wife's engine. About half way thru the 3500 to 4500 mi oci I run , it will slowly turn dark as if it is eventually doing some type cleaning of the engine insides. Nothing dramatic as the filters always look normal when doing the regular oil changes.
Hard to say if really cleaing or not as turbo engines , smaller ones even more so are known to darken the oils in normal driving use. I like + have used Valvoline in all of my classic cars thru the years with very good results.
I have a good bit of HPL already so it will be a while till I get around to any test use of the new Valvoline R&P product. Certainly will pay close attention with great interest to these posts/threads as I am very curious to hear of folks results/experiences using it.
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2021
- Messages
- 1,367
That still won't answer your question of which one works better.
For example if BITOG member A says, "I ran HPL in my Honda and found carbon bits in my used filter. It really works".
And then BITOG member B says, "I used VRP in my Hyundai and the oil consumption has been reduced by half a quart over the OCI".
Then all you'll know is that both of them do something. Nobody here can tell you which one works better though, head to head.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
That's because you have-yet to receive an engine reaction to a particular oil. Once you begin receiving reactions under the hood, you will think differently when changing oil brands, viscosities and/or OCIs.
Having used a few different boutique oils in the past year or two, I am in the early stages of belief that Group III oils deliver the quietest HyunKia engines. Not Group III+...... not a blend of IV and V. I am not intersted in purchasing the value priced Group II+ synthetics, so I refrain from any decision-makings on those.
Thankfully I do short OCIs and I could rest comfortably at night going back to Group III ILSAC / API / PCMO motor oils. I'll know more about my future plans at the end of winter. My trials on Boutiques should render me a decision by-then.
These two Hyunkia products I own are the world's perfect vehicles to do oil experiments on, in regards to cleanliness, quietness and consumption research. Everyone that's a BITOG member should already know that the primary strength of Boutiques are it's ability to render long-long OCIs. But that's never been my intent.
Last edited:
Similar threads
