Good Morning folks. I would have to say from what I have saw here that HPL does a good job at cleaning and keeeping things clean. I decided to keeP using my HPL and give the restore and protect to friend.
Which oil cleans more: HPL or Valvoline Restore and Protect?
- Thread starter 53' Stude
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Nobody here has conducted controlled tests in a lab with these two oils.
Hasn't been determined. R&P is a new technology where as HPL is using the traditional high solvency/detergent way which is proven. If you're using HPL you shouldn't have any carbon ring build up.
R&P is also limited in terms of viscosity grades. It's also not as long drain capable as HPL.
R&P has a unique chemistry that even impressed Dr. Warholic who worked for Infineum for over 16 years.
Cleaning piston deposits is not an easy task. Valvoline had to really make an oil with substantial group V (50%) for it to be able to remove piston deposits. Cleaning sludge and other carbon is not the same as piston deposits, something that most get wrong.
You'd have to run a test and tear down the engine and look at pistons, which no one is going to do.
Valvoline does give you this:
R&P is also limited in terms of viscosity grades. It's also not as long drain capable as HPL.
R&P has a unique chemistry that even impressed Dr. Warholic who worked for Infineum for over 16 years.
Cleaning piston deposits is not an easy task. Valvoline had to really make an oil with substantial group V (50%) for it to be able to remove piston deposits. Cleaning sludge and other carbon is not the same as piston deposits, something that most get wrong.
You'd have to run a test and tear down the engine and look at pistons, which no one is going to do.
Valvoline does give you this:
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No way of knowing definitively.
I didn’t ask about controlled tests. I wanted to know real world results like few here have shown pictures of.
I am currently doing a first OCI with Valvoline R&P in my sons Hyundai Santa Fe with the theta 2 GDI 2.4L. An engine with a rough history. HIs car has around 55K on it. Doesn't burn much oil. Maybe 1/4 quart in 4K OCI. Hoping a few OCI of R&P can free up rings a bit. We bought it used at 44K. I have changed the oil 3 times, now the 4th with R&P. Previous owner changed oil at dealership every 5-7K.
After a couple intervals of R&P, if it still has the issue, I plan to run 4 quarts of R&P with 1 quart of the HPL EC30. This is also a possible run with my other sons 2014 Kia Rio. It burns no oil now after a good Piston Soak with Berrymans B12. Honestly, I was shocked at how well that piston soak worked. He's at around 2500 miles now and not a drop of oil lost.
We shall see....
After a couple intervals of R&P, if it still has the issue, I plan to run 4 quarts of R&P with 1 quart of the HPL EC30. This is also a possible run with my other sons 2014 Kia Rio. It burns no oil now after a good Piston Soak with Berrymans B12. Honestly, I was shocked at how well that piston soak worked. He's at around 2500 miles now and not a drop of oil lost.
We shall see....
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I think the valve cover off pics were the easy days …
Now folks are convinced you can have that look great - but CBU on the piston/rings. Just so much harder to determine progress.
If I owned an I4 or an I6 - a piston soak is an easy and effective and done during a plug change …
Harder to pull off with V6/V8’s … and hard to get an even soak …
(runs to the low side) …
I used EC30 followed by VRP …
Now folks are convinced you can have that look great - but CBU on the piston/rings. Just so much harder to determine progress.
If I owned an I4 or an I6 - a piston soak is an easy and effective and done during a plug change …
Harder to pull off with V6/V8’s … and hard to get an even soak …
(runs to the low side) …
I used EC30 followed by VRP …
can't get HPL or VRP in the grade I want so I use an oil that advertises this:
amongst oher things that interest me.
Prevention beats cure for me.
- Safety against sludge accumulation, cokings and corrosion even under unfavourable operating conditions
- No oil limited deposits in combustion chambers, at the piston ring and valves
amongst oher things that interest me.
Prevention beats cure for me.
I’m currently in the middle of a R&P test on an oil burner. When complete I will post all the details, probably in the spring. If it does work it’s literally a game changer IMO, because of the cost.
I will say this. My next new car will get HPL or Amsoil SS from day 1. I don’t want to deal with another oil burner, especially with the cost of new vehicles. I can also say 5k oil changes with top tier otc oils did not keep my low tension rings from sticking. But the rest of the internals look new.
I will say this. My next new car will get HPL or Amsoil SS from day 1. I don’t want to deal with another oil burner, especially with the cost of new vehicles. I can also say 5k oil changes with top tier otc oils did not keep my low tension rings from sticking. But the rest of the internals look new.
This advertised prevention isn’t guaranteed though. Myself and others on this forum who have run good, approved oils in the past switched to HPL and start to see carbon bits in the filter. No guarantee they came from the rings, however, that is the most logical source to see that chunky carbon.
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I am surprised you can’t find HPL in the grade you want. They offer alot of different grades.
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Why is it we get so close to the truth, then people go full on Moon Beam Zappa ?
Good post buster !
I'll see your Dr. Warholic and add Dr. Rudnick.
Good post buster !
I'll see your Dr. Warholic and add Dr. Rudnick.
Does that mean you plan to drain the oil as soon as you get back from the dealer?
Only in the Americas
The oil I chose uses similar technology to HPL though
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You wouldn't believe the things they do down in the park.
???
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