When you don't grease the caliper pins....

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For the first twenty years I did my own brake work I didn't know about greasing the pins so I never did it. When I did it for the first time my Honda Accord already had 200,000 miles on it. The grease was still OK and the little rubber boots were intact. I do at least check them now, but I don't grease them every time.
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
One more time....It's Syl-Glide (sp?) to be used on the pins, yes?

Is clear silicone grease OK?


Silglyde is an excellent grease for caliper pins.

Clear silicone brake grease (I use Motorcraft XG3) also works well.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
There's also the chance a wrong grease was used eg normal wheel bearing or chassis grease, which turned hard. Last guy was "trying" but failed.

OP should also check his rear drums, see what's going on, if it's dead in there.


I checked the drums a week ago. One was dragging a bit. Fortunately the shoes were still good. I cleaned up the dust and adjusted everything correctly.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Huh, am I missing something here? Is the broken brake pad attributed to not greasing slider pins? Really???


By the looks of the picture, the pins had stuck in their bores causing the pads to overheat and wear rapidly. If you look at them, you'll see a redish brown color and lots of black stuff caked on. That's typical of a stuck piston or pin. Another thing that points to a stuck pin is that just one pad is completely zorched. The other pins may have been sticking too, but allowed some movement.


^^^This!

To fix this problem I had to pull out the pins and scrape off the caked on grease. It was baked in there. After using a small knife I went over with 1000 grit sandpaper. I even used a long & skinny tweezers in the hole to get out more crud. Afterwards I applied fresh brake grease and made sure the pins slide freely. I removed them and wiped off the grease which pulled out even more junk. I did that process at least 5 times until no more crud came out. Now they move like new.

For anyone who thought these were never changed. I did check them about 6 months ago. The pads had plenty of meat on them back then. I think it all went downhill over the winter.
 
A good way to clean out the pin bores is to use an exact size or slightly smaller drill bit. Then twist the bit by hand.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Quote:
I applied fresh brake grease and made sure the pins slide freely
I don't think that is right.


I don't see anything wrong here, except a bit of spelling.
 
It's weird but (at least my) BMW shop manual states to not use any grease on the caliper pins. I don't know what is special about them.

On my other cars I have noticed that sometimes the bores where the rubber boots go get rusted and that constricts the movement of the pins. I've had to remove the rubber liner and use a round wire brush to clean out the metal bore.
 
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
For the first twenty years I did my own brake work I didn't know about greasing the pins so I never did it. When I did it for the first time my Honda Accord already had 200,000 miles on it. The grease was still OK and the little rubber boots were intact. I do at least check them now, but I don't grease them every time.


no need to do it everytime, except if that's once every five years.

I strip, clean and inspect my brakes every 10k miles, haven't needed to grease the pins yet (at 40k now)
 
Ford rear disc brakes are horrible for sticking pins. You almost have to do them every year to avoid problems. I got into the habit of greasing every year when changing out the tires for summer.
 
I was doing mine twice a year, that way there would still be grease on the pad ears. I just started using that M77 suggested here, and it looks like it may be good for a full year.

I do need to change the pin grease, I have been using Sta-Lube and I've found that, while it's still grease, the pins are "stuck" and have to be worked in/out once, then it feels normal. I need to try something else next.
 
Originally Posted By: berniedd
For the sliding pins, can I use the grease in the brake pad kit that should be rubbed behind the pads?
Most likely not. That is designed to prevent brake squeal and are sticky.
 
Originally Posted By: Jetronic
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
For the first twenty years I did my own brake work I didn't know about greasing the pins so I never did it. When I did it for the first time my Honda Accord already had 200,000 miles on it. The grease was still OK and the little rubber boots were intact. I do at least check them now, but I don't grease them every time.


no need to do it everytime, except if that's once every five years.

I strip, clean and inspect my brakes every 10k miles, haven't needed to grease the pins yet (at 40k now)


I touch them only when the pads are ready for replacement. Since the pads on my current vehicle are at 60,000 and look to have a good bit of life left I'll be at least checking them when I finally do the brakes. I am finally learning on this car not to overdo the maintenance. I must have had a lot more idle time on my hands in my youth. These poor kids will never realize how good they have it!
 
I use the "2 grease" system for disc brakes. Either Sil-Glyde or a silicone grease for the pins. On the exposed, metal to metal parts I use a high solids waterproof paste.

Instead of the M77, I use the product linked below, a high solids moly paste. Try some on your hand under the faucet and it will not absorb water. A paper thin layer on rotor hats, hubs, etc. keeps them rust free for over a year in salt laden conditions.

https://www.goodson.com/Pastelub-Synthetic-Hi-Temp-Brake-Lubricant/
http://myptzone.com/Precision-Catalog/Pr...44/Default.aspx
 
Originally Posted By: JMK
To clean the pin bores I use a rifle cleaning brush and brake cleaner.


I use a correctly sized drill bit (manually)
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
One more time....It's Syl-Glide (sp?) to be used on the pins, yes?

Is clear silicone grease OK?

Sil-Glyde, Dow 111, Toyota Red Rubber Grease or CRC Silaramic - all of these will do the job. Don't use Permatex green or purple caliper lube or the rubber parts on the slide pins will swell and jam.
 
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