Be sure to burp out any trapped air before declaring there's too much grease.
Honda Odyssey brake caliper slide boots
- Thread starter gasman556
- Start date
Be sure to burp out any trapped air before declaring there's too much grease.
Yeah, also by aftermarket pin bushings (that rubber sleeve that goes around the leading braking edge pin) were oversized and did not have proper grooves in them so they were acting as a piston.
JHZR2
Staff member
I’m talking about the Honda M-77 in the Honda tube. AFAIK it is the same as the molykote product, but I can’t say certainly.
Honda M77 is intended for brake jobs. I didn’t say to use it on pins. It’s for other sliding surfaces though.
Here is an example:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/SB-10052516-8099.pdf
There are different viscosities of silicone greases with different molecular weights of silicone oils. I don’t know what your trilogy grease is compared to the variants the world over uses for brakes. Does it say it’s good for brakes?
Dow Corning grease is good stuff, but if it’s too heavy, like the stuff for vacuum systems, that could be problematic for sliding parts.
IMO there should be a little bit of play, but not like a spring (compressing an air bubble then pushing back out).
Also your brush should have a drill or an impact driver attachment, rust tends to flake and slough so you will need to go to town on it and hand power is not gonna do it.
I will take your word for it I am not a mechanic, just a guy trying to keep his rust belt bucket alive.
A good clean up is enough, no need to over stress it, otherwise OP may get an idea to use more aggressive abrasives and may enlarge the opening by trying to get rid of the rust.
Besides, some rust pitting will just hold more grease, so not all is lost.
I'm going to use a stainless brush that's the same diameter as the ID of the caliper bracket. I'm then going to use a brass brush that's either the same or maybe slightly larger than the ID of the bracket. Final go will be with the nylon brush larger than the ID. I can't see this as leading to much if any dilation of the bracket given my plan. Between all of these, I'm going to be using a ton of brakekleen to wash it out.
Gents, thanks again.
Also - my usual (prior) caliper greasing is similar to what I've seen online and the guide pin movement is approximate so my confidence is restored.
Top video, his 30:50 “light grease” is what I considered heavy. I think I’m good. Thanks again.
I use a drill bit to get old rust and grease out. Obviously stop if you're getting shiny chips.
I don't mind a little pogo action. Take your brakes apart after a week of driving, I bet the air bubble popped and the pogo is no more.
I like a good glob of grease at the rubber bellows. Keeps air and water out of the pin bore. Do that, and you get no rust.
Stabbing the brakes once in a while keeps everything free. Don't be shy.
I don't mind a little pogo action. Take your brakes apart after a week of driving, I bet the air bubble popped and the pogo is no more.
I like a good glob of grease at the rubber bellows. Keeps air and water out of the pin bore. Do that, and you get no rust.
Stabbing the brakes once in a while keeps everything free. Don't be shy.
Gents, thanks for the insight, tips, and product recommendations.
I just redid the job and know it’s done with sound execution and results with solid products. I threw away the permeated stuff and used the white bottled silicone stuff liberally while replacing all the bolts and bolt bushings after a thorough cleaning of the bores with the wire brush kit and gobs of brakekleen. I now have solid experience and kit to draw on going forward. Again, thank you for your help.
I just redid the job and know it’s done with sound execution and results with solid products. I threw away the permeated stuff and used the white bottled silicone stuff liberally while replacing all the bolts and bolt bushings after a thorough cleaning of the bores with the wire brush kit and gobs of brakekleen. I now have solid experience and kit to draw on going forward. Again, thank you for your help.
Permeated meant to say permatex (thanks autocorrect). I can’t edit the post.
With respect to grease and the caliper pin, you want to use a Q-tip and apply almost no grease to the hole. Just so all surfaces have been "wiped" with the grease from the Q-tip.
Then grease the pin as you normally would.
Then grease the pin as you normally would.
JHZR2
Staff member
Great to hear!!
So you used the stainless then nylon brushes in the bore? How did that work out?
I use one of these, I have them in a few sizes m8 and m10 work for many vehicles pin bores but measure your pins first before ordering.
Just move it up and down slightly in the bore as it is spinning in the drill on low speed and you get a nice freshly honed finish, a little silicone paste lightly on the pin and in the bore and bobs your uncle.
https://www.amazon.com/315-Flex-Hone-Cylinder-Silicon-Carbide/dp/B002MOOL1G
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMVYU...e5f60cf040&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw
For other grits and sizes...
https://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=1
Just move it up and down slightly in the bore as it is spinning in the drill on low speed and you get a nice freshly honed finish, a little silicone paste lightly on the pin and in the bore and bobs your uncle.
https://www.amazon.com/315-Flex-Hone-Cylinder-Silicon-Carbide/dp/B002MOOL1G
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMVYU...e5f60cf040&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw
For other grits and sizes...
https://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=1
Yes. I used some Amazon kit linked in this thread. It was fine. I wasn’t reaming with a bit, and it was the same diameter as the bore so it was fine. A lot of $h*tty stuff came out when I rinsed with brakekleen between drill brush passes.
The Royalty video is excellent and is the procedure I use.
Also, if you can see inside the slider tubes with a mirror, you can see if it is completely clean or not. Of course, it's best to just remove the bracket so you can see inside and clean them out.
Regarding the Honda rubber capped bottom pin, if it is stuck in the tube you can just pull that rubber cap off and still use the pin without a cap (it really isnt necessary). Lots of Honda folks do that when the cap swells, to avoid the pin getting stuck in the future. I used them this way for a few years until the seals got bad, at which point I bought the seal kit and installed new caps.
And Super Lube brake grease works very well.
Thanks for this. I like Royalty Auto vids and bought their recommended lug brush socket with the pumice-like stuff on the end of it for the hubs when I watched it a while back. I totally forgot about this vid, but remember it now! Good to know about the pin not needing the cap, but I bought new stuff and used silicone grease regardless. I would rather not have to deal with that again bc that was a real b*tch to get out of the caliper bracket! I am optimistic using compatible grease will do the trick this time...hopefully, but time will tell.
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