I did a 4 wheel brake job on my MIL's 2017 Camry over the weekend. For reference, this is pretty close to a base model LE I think(4 cyl, steel wheels, but does have a backup camera). She bought it new and has put 120K on it, most of it around town driving but they usually take it to Florida a few times a year. Rears were down to the rivets with grooved rotors on one side, fronts were at ~2mm I recommended we do them all while I had it. She didn't remember ever having done front brakes(not sure what Toyota factory pads look like) although I know rears have been done at least once.
LF was the the last one I did, and didn't see any unusual signs of wear when I took it all down. Rotor was rusted to the hub(both fronts were) and once off I used a wire brush on an angle grinder, paired with some hand brushing, to clean up the surfaces of the hub. Caliper was cleaned up, retracted without issue(I always retract with the bleeders open-fluid coming out looked fine) and otherwise passed a visual inspection. The bracket was wire wheeled, got all new shims/clips, and slide pins were thoroughly cleaned then greased with Sil-Glyde(and verified for free movement after). Pads move freely and have Permatex ceramic grease on the ears. I do have the "wishbone" springs(not sure what their proper name is) that spread the pads installed, although I've also run it without to make sure they weren't fouling and causing issues.
I took it out for a test drive, and verified all the usuals-it brakes straight and otherwise tracks straight. The only time I had a small amount of pull was accelerating from a stop, but that was to the right and I attributed to torque steer(and it was very subtle). When I was close to home from the test drive, though, someone flagged me down and said my left front wheel was smoking. I pulled over and checked, and sure enough it was and considerably hotter than the right front.
As quickly as I could, I got the car home, jacked it up, and pulled the left front wheel. I cracked the bleeder, partially since the whole thing was still too hot for me to do much else, but also as a quick check for a hose issue(my experience is that if a hose is holding pressure, cracking the bleeder will generally give a spurt of fluid as it's released) and only saw the same sort of small fluid dribble I'd expect if I cracked the bleeder with no pressure on the system.
At this point I've had it apart three times total, twice since the first test drive. The left front brake is still running super hot and obviously is still sticking somewhere along the way, but I'm at a loss as to when/where or what's causing it especially as I can never seem to catch it pulling(and I'd think one sticking that much would cause that). I'm reluctant to just throw parts at it and change the caliper, especially as I'm not super trusting of the rebuilt ones out there. She is planning on selling/trading in the next 6 months, though, so I suppose that could be fine if that's what it needs.
Any thoughts on what else I could possibly check before doing this, though?
LF was the the last one I did, and didn't see any unusual signs of wear when I took it all down. Rotor was rusted to the hub(both fronts were) and once off I used a wire brush on an angle grinder, paired with some hand brushing, to clean up the surfaces of the hub. Caliper was cleaned up, retracted without issue(I always retract with the bleeders open-fluid coming out looked fine) and otherwise passed a visual inspection. The bracket was wire wheeled, got all new shims/clips, and slide pins were thoroughly cleaned then greased with Sil-Glyde(and verified for free movement after). Pads move freely and have Permatex ceramic grease on the ears. I do have the "wishbone" springs(not sure what their proper name is) that spread the pads installed, although I've also run it without to make sure they weren't fouling and causing issues.
I took it out for a test drive, and verified all the usuals-it brakes straight and otherwise tracks straight. The only time I had a small amount of pull was accelerating from a stop, but that was to the right and I attributed to torque steer(and it was very subtle). When I was close to home from the test drive, though, someone flagged me down and said my left front wheel was smoking. I pulled over and checked, and sure enough it was and considerably hotter than the right front.
As quickly as I could, I got the car home, jacked it up, and pulled the left front wheel. I cracked the bleeder, partially since the whole thing was still too hot for me to do much else, but also as a quick check for a hose issue(my experience is that if a hose is holding pressure, cracking the bleeder will generally give a spurt of fluid as it's released) and only saw the same sort of small fluid dribble I'd expect if I cracked the bleeder with no pressure on the system.
At this point I've had it apart three times total, twice since the first test drive. The left front brake is still running super hot and obviously is still sticking somewhere along the way, but I'm at a loss as to when/where or what's causing it especially as I can never seem to catch it pulling(and I'd think one sticking that much would cause that). I'm reluctant to just throw parts at it and change the caliper, especially as I'm not super trusting of the rebuilt ones out there. She is planning on selling/trading in the next 6 months, though, so I suppose that could be fine if that's what it needs.
Any thoughts on what else I could possibly check before doing this, though?
