What's your "one stop shop" oil?

I have been thinking on Delvac 1300 10w30 for everything. 3.6 HTHS, CK/SP rated, not to thick,not too thin, great track record, and cheap, 15 bucks a gallon.

the new 1300 is "Syn blend" whatever that means these days.

So, Kubota, lawn mower, RV, GM LS trucks, GM 6.2 diesel, but not the 4 wheelers as they require JASO MA oil.....
If it came in a bucket I would use it. They limit the rebates to two singles though so it is too expensive. 1300 15w-40 is my default for everything unless I can get something cheaper.
 
Well, according to an e-mail I received from Valvoline tech. support, Valvoline Restore and Protect is their best engine oil they sell for automotive gasoline engines, to be used in brand new cars you bought today off the show room floor until they are worn out. You are right about the HTHS being 3.2. That is really not bad though, considering the Euro C3 oils are >3.5. Most API oils are less than 3.2 HTHS I think. None of the Valvoline engine oils are rated for extended oil changes. A lot of people really like the Valvoline Restore and Protect and it is Valvoline's premium gasoline engine oil according to them. That is all I know. As I said before though, if you want to go discount Valvoline Restore and Protect is not a good choice from what I have seen.
3.2 HTHS is good. I didn't mean to imply otherwise. I was just saying that Valvoline Extended Protection High Mileage Full Synthetic has even better HTHS at 3.3.

If a car has an oil leak, as high mileage cars are prone to, then Valvoline Extended Protection High Mileage Full Synthetic is a better choice than Valvoline Restore and Protect, IMO. That's why I asked best for what purpose?
 
1. Whatever 0w40 or 5w40 dual rated oil is cheapest when I need it.

2. Whatever VW 507 is cheapest when I need it. Think 507 can only be 5w30, but if not, that's what I get.

Pretty much brand agnostic.
 
1. Whatever 0w40 or 5w40 dual rated oil is cheapest when I need it.

2. Whatever VW 507 is cheapest when I need it. Think 507 can only be 5w30, but if not, that's what I get.

Pretty much brand agnostic.
Despite how much I've spoke highly of ESP, I'm not a brand loyalist. I'm not really interested in the rest of the Mobil 1 line up, and ESP is the only Mobil 1 I've used besides Mobil 1 ATF.
 
Valvoline Extended Protection High Mileage Full Synthetic is a better choice than Valvoline Restore and Protect, IMO.
You are right about that if dealing with an older engine that may be getting ready to seep oil. My only concern is I think @Glenda W. had an issue with one of Valvoline's oils in the past with piston carbon, varnish or something, now she uses Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 I think.
 
You are right about that if dealing with an older engine that may be getting ready to seep oil. My only concern is I think @Glenda W. had an issue with one of Valvoline's oils in the past with piston carbon, varnish or something, now she uses Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 I think.
Valvoline Restore and Protect is Valvoline’s top offering and one of the best OTC oils IMO. But Valvoline Extended Protection was unable to keep my Subaru pistons clean. My theory is the EP has a great additive package but mediocre base oils. I only recommend Valvoline Restore and Protect from Valvoline.
 
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Kirkland all day everyday and twice on weekends. As long as you don’t need things like European specs, it’s as good as any oil out there. Many weights can be found on Costco’s website too. Too many used oil analysis showing it performs extremely well.
 
ESP, in either 0W30 or 5W30.
You know, not trying to hijack my own thread, but how are ESP 0w30 and 5w30 different? I know the consensus is 0w30 uses a gtl/pao/ester base oil blend and slightly higher SAPS (but still mid SAPS) additive package, but what do we know has changed to make the 5w30 different? 5w30 is more lspi friendly in regards to it having a more API SQ oriented add pack? Gtl/grpIII base? I get the details mixed up because I've read about several different 5w30 C3 VW 507 oils 😵‍💫
 
For me, I have 3 cars. I run Valvoline Restore and Protect in two (2016 Forester and 2003 Camry). Both are well over 100K miles, so I am hoping for a good cleaning. I will do oil change based on the manufacturer's recommended OCI, and submit samples for oil analysis. I run AMSOIL Signature Series in the other, a 2016 Outback with only 60K miles, experimenting with the extended OCI. I will adjust all according to UOA results. I would be comfortable using either Valvoline Restore and Protect or AMSOIL Signature Series exclusively as my "one stop shop" oil, but there are trade-offs either way I guess.
 
You know, not trying to hijack my own thread, but how are ESP 0w30 and 5w30 different? I know the consensus is 0w30 uses a gtl/pao/ester base oil blend and slightly higher SAPS (but still mid SAPS) additive package, but what do we know has changed to make the 5w30 different? 5w30 is more lspi friendly in regards to it having a more API SQ oriented add pack? Gtl/grpIII bas
Far as I know it has more PAO group 4 in the mix. Compare section 3 of their MSDS sheets side by side. I really am not qualified to answer this; there are others that can though.
 
So Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W-40 over Quaker State 5W-40? Your response will determine my next purchase. Thanks!
Yes. Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W-40 was the best performing OTS oil HPL had ever tested in their lab and it has a pretty impressive pedigree, though there have been formulation changes over the years.
 
You are right about that if dealing with an older engine that may be getting ready to seep oil. My only concern is I think @Glenda W. had an issue with one of Valvoline's oils in the past with piston carbon, varnish or something, now she uses Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 I think.
I've been using Valvoline Maxlife High Mileage Full Synthetic for 15+ years with no carbon issues, but my 97 Buick Park Ave has stronger spring strength of its piston rings and port injection. So it's not prone to carbon problems. I was thinking of those oils mainly in regard to my 97 Buick.

However, my mom's 09 Prius probably is prone to carbon deposits. Maybe also my neighbor's 11 Hyundai.

All I can say is my 97 Buick has never had a carbon problem using Maxlife High Mileage Full Synthetic. Maxlife is good IME, and the Valvoline oils I'm now considering are better.

Glenda will correct me if I'm mistaken about his or her car, but I think Glenda has a newer Subaru, which would mean weaker spring strength of it's piston rings and maybe also direct injection. So Glenda's car is probably more prone to carbon deposits than my Buick.
 
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