What oil should I run in my 2011 LX570 - Switching from 0w20-5w30

The winter rating is important for expected starting conditions. The difference in cranking and pumpability between a 5W and a 0W rating is apparent below -30 or so. Above that there is little to no difference, either one may be thicker or thinner. But as long as it can be pumped it will make it to needed engine areas.

Both are 30 grade oils however. HT/HS is a better indicator of protection at operating temperature.
 
The winter rating is important for expected starting conditions. The difference in cranking and pumpability between a 5W and a 0W rating is apparent below -30 or so. Above that there is little to no difference, either one may be thicker or thinner. But as long as it can be pumped it will make it to needed engine areas.

Both are 30 grade oils however. HT/HS is a better indicator of protection at operating temperature.
So a 30 grade would have better HT HS properties right>?
 
@chriscosta416 do you have any data based justification for switching?
It seems the 0w-20 has worked well to this point.
I have been reading up on using the 5w-30 weight on ih8mud, Overseas Toyota calls for 5w30 and a wide range of weights for the 5.7. In the states it calls for 0w-20 and people are assuming its for CAFE standards. My truck is often loaded up with gear and either bashing through dunes or climbing rocks so I was thinking of switching to a heavier weight oil since my truck would fall under severe use per the owners manual.
I assume a slightly thicker oil would be better for a higher mileage motor as well as often better protection
So the answer to my question is 'No'.
 
There are probably 100 existing threads on this topic. Perhaps you should search around on the board a while before you ask a bunch of related questions?
 
You are correct, I have no solid data other than losing half a qt at 3,500 miles. Is it safe to assume a heavier oil would not evap/burn off?
You're chasing a problem that doesn't exist.
You burned a half a quart in 3500 miles on a vehicle with 173k+ miles on it.
That's fantastic performance.
There's nothing that needs to be fixed.
There is no problem.
 
You are correct, I have no solid data other than losing half a qt at 3,500 miles. Is it safe to assume a heavier oil would not evap/burn off?


And you may be interpreting that data wrongly. Losing a half a quart in 3500 miles is insignificant considering the age of this vehicle and the miles accumulated. You also don’t know the prior maintenance history.
 
Thanks for your help everyone, sounds like I was asking for an advice on something that is not an issue.

Regarding maintenance history, Lexus service records show oil changed every 5-7k miles since first owner. I am the 2nd.
 
I have run Pennzoil Platinum 5w30, Mobil 1 5w30, Amsoil SS 5w30 and current fill is Mobil 1 EP 5w30 in my 2011 Tundra with the 3URFE. Will be changing the oil again in the next month with M1EP 5w30.
 
You're chasing a problem that doesn't exist.
You burned a half a quart in 3500 miles on a vehicle with 173k+ miles on it.
That's fantastic performance.
There's nothing that needs to be fixed.
There is no problem.
Personally I find that unacceptable. Sure maybe in a new Toyota engine since the company has started declining, but I don’t lose any oil level on my dipstick at all in my 2001 Toyota tundra 4.7…. That’s because that’s when Toyota made perfection. Can’t say the same with their new age engines. Losing half a quart from evaporation is laughable especially below 4k miles. That doesn’t happen
 
Personally I find that unacceptable. Sure maybe in a new Toyota engine since the company has started declining, but I don’t lose any oil level on my dipstick at all in my 2001 Toyota tundra 4.7…. That’s because that’s when Toyota made perfection. Can’t say the same with their new age engines. Losing half a quart from evaporation is laughable especially below 4k miles. That doesn’t happen
Half a quart from evaporation?
 
Go to Walmart and pick up whatever brand of 5w30 full synthetic that looks good to you. SuperTech. Mobil1. Valvoline. Etc. It doesn't matter. Any of them will work. I think you'll find as a side benefit, that the engine at idle will be mechanically slightly quieter.
 
If the vehicles stays in the Southern California region and associated climate and is frequently used offroad and especially in sand dunes (presumably with the AC going), I would consider that a "severe service" worthy of a step up in weight or a step up in specification. A move to something a little heavier might be useful, but keep in mind... It would be interesting to see a UOA after one of those dune runs to see if the oil is staying in grade.

If it were my Lexus, I would probably try Castrol Edge EP 5W30, M1 EPHM 5W30, or M1 EP 10W30 and see how things go. I would expect these to hold up to the dunes better as they have higher flash points than many other common oils. That is, of course, assuming that the hard runs in the dunes are causing some oil burn-off as suggested by others in this thread, in which case, keep in mind that some 5w30 oils actually have lower flash points than some 0w20, so oil consumption could get worse with a step up to 5w30.

I'm not convinced that "evaporation" is the only component at play here, but the 3 oils above are a cheap way to find out, as they should resist that more than most.
 
I have a 2013 LX570 with 239K miles owned since new. I do 7-10K OCI and 85% has been 0w20 synthetic of one brand or another. It will use maybe a half quart over 7K miles now. I have a lot of diesel equipment and the last few summers have run 15w40 with no issues or consumption including a fair bit of towing a travel trailer. If I were in a warm climate I would just use a 15w40.
 
For reference my 2008 Nissan Pathfinder 4x4 with the 5.6 liter engine uses no amounts of oil, discernible after 5000-7000 miles.
190,000 miles on it now.
I never use anything thinner than 0w-40...
 
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