What oil for 97 Ranger 4.0L?

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I'm about to buy a 97 Ford Ranger with a 4.0L v-6, and 106k miles on it. It calls for 5w-30, and I want to run mobil 1, but, I've read so much on here not too long ago about the mobil 1 5-30 and others shearing rather badly. How would a 0-40 run in my truck? I've read very, very good thigns about the M1 0w-40. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
I have serviced my father in law's 97 Ranger with the same engine since 2001 using chevron 5w-30 then switched to havoline 5w-30 when wally world dumped the chevron. Both oil's worked very well with minimal oil consumption. He now has 140000 miles on the clock. You can see up into the oil pan with a mag light and find a very clean looking pan. The oil filter housing is also very clean looking up inside. The new sm havoline works well with his Ranger. Who needs synthetics. I used 4500 intervals.
 
You could go with Mobil 1 Extended Performance in 5w30 or 10w30 since it is still the SL add pack.
 
Well, why was I reading on here not all that long ago then to avoid the M1 5w-30 adn 10w-30??? I read TONS of threads about it shearing down to below a 20 weight oil.
 
i suggest Havoline.

my younger brother uses Havoline in his 94 which he bought with roughly 190,000 miles on the 4.0 liter.

it uses maybe 3/4 to 1 quart of oil every 3,000 miles.
 
Well, why was I reading on here not all that long ago then to avoid the M1 5w-30 adn 10w-30??? I read TONS of threads about it shearing down to below a 20 weight oil.

The M1 Extended Performance meets the ACEA A5 (extended drain) spec, where regular M1 does not. I would be less concerned about it shearing down to a 20 wt., and more concerned about the issues raised with the Ford 4.0 and valve train wear with SM rated oils. The M1 Extended Performance has the higher ZDDP of the SL oils.
 
After reading your link BubbaP I view that the problem is the soft metal in the rods and the poor oil flow to these critical parts. It makes not mention of lower ZDDP oils causing wear.
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My understanding is the benefit of ZDDP is when there is little or no oil flow, and the ZDDP forms a protective layer to prevent metal to metal contact. Perhaps the more ZDDP in what small amounts of oil make it to the rockers would reduce the wear to some degree, but how much, I have no idea.
I agree the soft metal poor oil flow is the problem, the question is whether the extra ZDDP will help reduce the wear, and to what extent.
 
Well BubbaP you do have a good point. Extra aw agents in hdeo's help make diesel engines run for hundreds of thousands of miles. It sure would not hurt to use a high mileage oil from say Valvoline.
Maxlife is a good product as is all the high mileage oils. I just think synthetic oil is pure overkill in this application. It will not protect any better.
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I mostly agree, the oil does not need to be synthetic, just have good antiwear stuff for the valve train.
The SM vs SL debate goes on. My conclusion is that for most newer cars, the SM and reduced ZDDP is fine, but issues are always raised about older "flat tappet" lifters, and in this case, the Ford 4.0 as to whether the SM oils have the right antiwear stuff. I think most of the high mileage oils are going to the SM spec as well. Per the Product Data Sheets I have looked at, only the Phillips 66 and Kendall brands of high mileage oils are SL with the higher ZDDP, but I never see them anywhere.
 
Also a note for kendogg411-
Don't worry about all this stuff and your new ride.
My oldest son has a '95 Ranger with the 4.0, and it has been the best, most trouble free vehicle we have ever owned. We have had it nearly 4 years.
 
I agree, Mobil 1 would be okay but probably overkill. Havoline would be fine, Valvoline Max Life would be a little better which is what I would use. It's a synthetic blend although not marketed as such. If you want a full synthetic, there is also a synthetic Max Life but generally it costs more than Mobil 1.
I would suggest getting a UOA from Blackstone once or twice just to make sure everything is okay.
BTW, I'm the same JohnnyO from The Ranger Station. I get around.
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The main considerations are:
(1)5w30 oil. Motorcraft,Kendall,Pennzoil,etc dino,syn, or blend.
(2)Motorcraft,Wix, or Purolator Filter. NO FRAM!!
(3) Maintain at least 5000 mile or 6 month oil change intervals.
 
OK, well, I bought the M1 0W-40 at Advance, should I return that then and get the EP 5W-40? What should I be looking for? Also, What API service rating should I be looking at? Are you guys saying that Sm is bad, but SL is good? Or the other way around?
 
Pick a good dino such as Havoline or Castrol. Start with 5w30 and if the engine consumes oil, try 10w30. I personally don't see a lot of benefit in putting expensive synthetic in a high mileage engine that's likely seen dino its entire life, unless you are interested in extending the drain intervals past 5,000 miles.
 
SM is not bad. Why do you think M1 5w-30 is not shear stable? Look at all the UOA's and read how shear stable it is. M1 0w-40 is overkill. They do not make a 5w-40 EP it is in 10w-40 EP. Also the SM dino oils have shown great UOA's in relation to valve train protecton. It is a bad myth that there is valve train issues with the 4.0.
 
quote:

The main considerations are:
(1)5w30 oil. Motorcraft,Kendall,Pennzoil,etc dino,syn, or blend.
(2)Motorcraft,Wix, or Purolator Filter. NO FRAM!!
(3) Maintain at least 5000 mile or 6 month oil change intervals.

I agree on all points, but I would specifically add 5W30 TropArtic to the list of oil choices.
 
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