What now? Why? Does it really matter?

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I have a 2005 ford focus st with 82000 miles. Today i looked under the valve cover and BAM, spotless! I pop the trunk and BAM, signs of rust! I have been using synthetic for most of it's life and currently use synpower 5w20. This motor if i fill it with even the cheapest brand will outlast the rest of the car. So why in the [censored] should i continue using synthetic?
I used to justify it by saying i could go to walmart and buy a jug of syn for cheaper than dino at say autozone. Now i think i can get a jug of QS dino at walmart for the price of 2 banana splits at dairy queen and maybe a cheapo fram filter. Oh god i put too much thought into oil all these years! Now i just need to figure out which syn to use in my new 10 fusion se. I'm such a loser. I wish i was as interested in things that are actually important.
 
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Maybe you should have gotten your car rust proofed.

But wait, doesn't the manufacturer do a good job of that.

I'm driving a 2001 Escort with No Rust. Get it sprayed with oil every fall. I do the same with my wifes 03 car, also no rust. And yes I live in the No. Indiana rust belt.
 
It is probably overkill to use synthetic in cars in my area for a daily driver,nobody can keep a car for more than 12 to 15 years without it being a rust bucket and looking like [censored],I have put over 200,000 on only one vehicle in my life but most are shot at 125,000-150,000 and between 10&15 years, our highest use car only goes about 14,000 miles a year so the rust always gets them before anything.
 
A panel has to completely rust through in the allotted warranty time for it to be covered. I've taken very good care of this car. It's rusting at the trunk latch. Touched up spots on the under carriage that started showing signs. Undercoated the 10 fusion for this reason.
 
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Originally Posted By: jcwit
Maybe you should have gotten your car rust proofed.

But wait, doesn't the manufacturer do a good job of that.

I'm driving a 2001 Escort with No Rust. Get it sprayed with oil every fall. I do the same with my wifes 03 car, also no rust. And yes I live in the No. Indiana rust belt.



oil?
 
Google rust check or crown rustproofing, they use it in Canada, South Bend, Indiana has a Rust Check dealer, one can also use bar & chain oil and Fluid Film available at John Deere dealers.
 
Originally Posted By: bradepb
It is probably overkill to use synthetic in cars in my area for a daily driver,nobody can keep a car for more than 12 to 15 years without it being a rust bucket and looking like [censored],I have put over 200,000 on only one vehicle in my life but most are shot at 125,000-150,000 and between 10&15 years, our highest use car only goes about 14,000 miles a year so the rust always gets them before anything.


I beg to differ. It all depends if one wants to put a little money and effort into preventing rust. It can be done.
 
Shoulda poured the oil in the trunk.
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Ed
 
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
Originally Posted By: jcwit
Maybe you should have gotten your car rust proofed.

But wait, doesn't the manufacturer do a good job of that.

I'm driving a 2001 Escort with No Rust. Get it sprayed with oil every fall. I do the same with my wifes 03 car, also no rust. And yes I live in the No. Indiana rust belt.



oil?


It is a way to rustproof the car: Drill small holes in panels (doors, front and rear of the cars) and inject oil with anti-rust products in it (oil is the media to bring the products everywhere in the car). Plug holes made.

Seems to work quite well.

Jcwit, the best time to do it is in the heat of summer and not fall as a lot of people think. You don't want the oil to stay in the car, only the antirust products.
The best way to do it is during a hot day with the car in the sun. After the treatment, put the car back in the sun. While evaporating due to the heat, the oil will spray the antirust products every where and not only at the bottom of the panels.
 
Originally Posted By: JCM35
Wow this veered off quick.
I disagree.
Your topic: Motor outlasts car
Thread Objective: Increase life of chassis
Method: Rustproofing service

Thread Complete. Enter when ready :)
 
One of the best rustproofing oils is wool grease aka lanolin. This is what fluid film is basically, also one of the 2 products that Rust Check uses. Do a search as to what the shipping industry uses.

I've yet to see bar & chain oil evaporate.

I use a garden sprayer to apply it.
 
That is what the manager of the rustproofing store told me.

That may not evaporate per say, but it clearly told me it was better to do it in the heat of summer.
His reasoning sounded right in my ears, and facts seem to follow the reasoning (smelled oil for three-four days and then no smell anymore), that is why I followed his advice.

Could you explain your reasoning on how it is working? I am sincerely interested in other opinions on the subject, thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: [RT
ProjUltraZ]if it's just a few spots, use POR15, it's pretty amazing


Even if it was big, cant you just coat the [censored] out of it?

I have been meaning to buy some of that stuff...
 
How is it working? Why it very simple, its all natural!!

Seriously, for some reason the wool grease pentrates the seams and pores of the steel and somewhat sealing it from moisture. Its also self sealing, but needs to be reapplied in time.

The trouble with paints or hard undercoatings like p/u bed coating is that once they are scratched they do not heal themselves. Stone chips also creat a problem with them.

Regarding Krown, I understand they are super, but there's one major problem here in the U.S., they have no dealers down here. We do have a few Rust Check tho, and they seem to be a very simular product.
 
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Originally Posted By: [RT
ProjUltraZ]if it's just a few spots, use POR15, it's pretty amazing


Even if it was big, cant you just coat the [censored] out of it?

I have been meaning to buy some of that stuff...


I have their starter kit, which includes enough of everything you need to do about a 6' square area (as per its docs). I bought it do the wheel wells where some rust has shown up (minor, but I want to nip it this summer). Just been waiting on a dry, non-humid day to do it (it can bubble in 80% humidity, and in the month since I bought it, if it hasn't been raining its been 90%+ humidity).

Starter kit was about $25 Cdn at NAPA.

-Spyder

Edit: I don't see the relationship between using good syn oil and rust developing in your trunk? Don't see how that negates any advantage of syn either, since its not marketed to protect your trunk from rust
wink.gif
 
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After years of obsessing over oil, im starting to believe for many engines, life will not be extended by using synthetics if reasonable oil changes are used. Or maybe i should say that more likely for the life of your vehicle, you probably wont have oil related issues. Every engine is different though and you just need to know if you have one that is tough of the oil.
 
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