CC2s installed on the Taos, waiting for another great weather day to replace speakers and install the hitch and wiring.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Found the issue why I was having liftgate issues on my Trailblazer. The lock, wiper and defogger wasn't working. I guess I found out why. Soldered up the mess and all was kind of well. I found the lock was actually seized. Lubed it up and worked her over and all is right in the world.
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Line up in the yard on friday - a German built horse float, a bit of quality compared to the local built ones...but of course parts are a problem. Nissan bus we haven't looked at yet. The Toyota Dyna was in last week - dash lights on, batteries going flat and overheating, running on 3 and...white smoke. It had slipped the belts...fitted another couple and most of the problems solved. Sat out there for 3 days and is now hydro locked - time to tow it away. '64 Falcon, and an MF 135.
The Falcon has been a problem for months - won't idle, clean out the idle circuit and it will idle for 30 minutes...take it up the road and it won't idle again. We sent the carb away twice, came back looking like new, but still the same problem. My theory is the emulsion tube is full of crap, it's a dead end tube and can't be blown through. When up to speed and the emulsion tube working, it sucks the crap into the system, and of course the idle circuit is connected to the same airbleed. The emulsion tube is the brass thing behind the main jet...drill a hole to clean, then solder up ?
So we got a brand new carb from China or somewhere, and I fitted it last week. I was on my own last week, so it was a spare time job, and I didn't have any spare time ! It flooded, I ended up using the old needle and seat, but was still running rich...and I set about lowering the float level bit by bit, until the float was almost hitting the bottom. So I figured the problem was the carb top, so fitted the original base, set the float level to stock, and fitted the new top part of the carb. After a bit more fiddling I have got it running perfectly...for now. We'll keep it for a few days, a few more road tests, and hopefully this problem child will be all cured.
It was Falcon week - this is a 1979 XD ute...originally a 6 cyl, it now has a 302 - all factory. A full brake job - rear shoes and cyls, rebuilt calipers with new pistons (and old pads) and it new kit in the master cyls. More problems along the way of course, but road tested with 100% on the Tapley Meter.
The Falcon has been a problem for months - won't idle, clean out the idle circuit and it will idle for 30 minutes...take it up the road and it won't idle again. We sent the carb away twice, came back looking like new, but still the same problem. My theory is the emulsion tube is full of crap, it's a dead end tube and can't be blown through. When up to speed and the emulsion tube working, it sucks the crap into the system, and of course the idle circuit is connected to the same airbleed. The emulsion tube is the brass thing behind the main jet...drill a hole to clean, then solder up ?
So we got a brand new carb from China or somewhere, and I fitted it last week. I was on my own last week, so it was a spare time job, and I didn't have any spare time ! It flooded, I ended up using the old needle and seat, but was still running rich...and I set about lowering the float level bit by bit, until the float was almost hitting the bottom. So I figured the problem was the carb top, so fitted the original base, set the float level to stock, and fitted the new top part of the carb. After a bit more fiddling I have got it running perfectly...for now. We'll keep it for a few days, a few more road tests, and hopefully this problem child will be all cured.
It was Falcon week - this is a 1979 XD ute...originally a 6 cyl, it now has a 302 - all factory. A full brake job - rear shoes and cyls, rebuilt calipers with new pistons (and old pads) and it new kit in the master cyls. More problems along the way of course, but road tested with 100% on the Tapley Meter.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
Today was a little slow. But that’s ok. Done a battery on a trade in which was a 2019 Mitsubishi Mirage G4. When I seen that pop up on my screen as assigned to me I got excited lol. My boss said yes sir I know how much you like those so I gave that to you. It was an automatic but heck still I liked it and would buy one in a heartbeat lol. They are just cool cars. Then a brake job on a Subaru Forester and a few other things too. And when it slowed down about 5pm I see a cop roll up. He gets out and has this big box in his hand. Found out a really cool parts delivery guy from another local dealership wrecked. He was T-boned by a car running a red light and was hurt. The cop took it on himself to deliver the part. Super awesome cool cop and hopefully our delivery guy will get better. He is a really cool dude. The officer said he seen the part in the vehicle and the vehicle was a total loss and heading to the junkyard so he didn’t want the part to get lost. Our parts people and techs really appreciate that as we have a hard enough time getting parts as it is.
Auto Mirage ? They are all CVT here.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
They are CVT and manual here. I call the CVT an automatic. You move the lever to D so it’s easier to call it automatic than CVT lol. At least for me.
My 2005 MTD built Craftsman mower needed a new spindle on the deck. This is the first major piece that is not a regular maintenance item that has needed replacing.
This cheap little riding mower has been a good mower for the 17 years of ownership.
16 hp Briggs and Stratton I/C engine.
This cheap little riding mower has been a good mower for the 17 years of ownership.
16 hp Briggs and Stratton I/C engine.
Tracked down a ATF leak to a buggered pan. I consulted @The Critic and we did try to salvage it. Used Hylomar to “tack” the gasket on and provide some gap fill. Noticed the gasket isn’t “evenly” squeezed when I torqued it down - I think the pan is warped. We’ll see. Filled it back up with nearly 5 quarts of ATF - Castrol Transmax IMV but I had to top off with MaxLife. Also fixed a power steering learn.
New water pump, new heater hoses (160k miles, didnt want to put too many more miles on those plastic quick connect fittings on heater hoses at firewall), new belts, new tensioner and idler pulley for my Silverado. All OE GM parts. No major hangups (knock on wood).
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
A picture of my home screwdriver drawer. Missing two that I have out at work for warranty. I had my niece helping me today in the basement and she seen those and the ones in my cart and is like good lord dude how many screwdrivers does one mechanic need? Lol
. I said a lot more than this girl, a lot more. I was working on cleaning up the basement and putting tools away. Trying to make room for more toolboxes and work benches. And lots of shelves and my equipment. That’s what I’m working on today.
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- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 2,210
Replaced a pinion seal on a 2011 Ford F-150 this morning, then diagnosed a coolant leak on a 2002 Chevrolet Impala. Impala needs a timing cover gasket, and will get a new timing chain kit while it's apart. I won't have parts until Wednesday. Got a go ahead on the 66 mustang, but customer is getting all the parts. Probably won't have them until Wednesday or Thursday.
Rear shocks on a 2021 Ford Escape. 15k on vehicle
It wasn’t today or even yesterday now, but worked on 4 vehicles:
2007 Mini Cooper S. Prior owner must have been hacking around after reading performance posts on a Mini forum somewhere as I found a crumbly PCV hose made up of rock hard, cracked up tiny hose and brittle plastic tees plumbed straight into the intake via nozzles glued into it very sloppily. I’m not surprised that the downstream throttle air leaks, combined with stripped out screws in the air filter housing, are causing all of this. I ordered the proper hose, pulled the adapter plugs and block off plugs, and plan to seal up the holes vs. buying a used intake. Work will be completed when the new PCV hose arrives.
2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500. Vapor canister vent valve is crusted up and no longer venting. Got under the grimy, muddy beast and changed out the dead valve. Took 20 minutes, mostly due to avoiding the sand and mud falling into my eyes to get it installed. No more check engine light, and remote start is reinstated now that it’s off.
2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon. Right side growly wheel bearing up front. Dead ABS sensor. Pulled wheel, removed brakes and stubborn rotor (with much effort; it did not want to leave its happy home without a lot of persuasion) and worked mightily to remove the three mounting bolts on the hub. This took a lot of effort as whoever was in there before (evidenced by the heavy use of zip ties on brake lines and the damaged sensor; they didn’t even trim the zip ties!) used half a bottle of RED locktite on the bolts. They did not come out without a lot of effort. The heads were 12 point and could give the Titanic a run for crust. Swapped in the new parts, cleaned the bolts as they were still reusable after the crust and many pounds of locktite was wire wheeled off. Fixed, and the ABS light, along with the growl, was gone.
2014 Chrysler Town & Country. The engine has been dripping oil all over and my inspection showed a damaged, leaky oil filter cooler housing as the cause. Took it all apart and swapped out the plugs (NGKs went in) and coils since they were accessible. New standard plastic housing went back in, and buttoned up around twilight. Road test shows the minivan runs even better with the new coils and plugs, and no more burning oil stink. Fixed the last one, and my brother is pleased, as it means his wife will no longer use his Jeep (above) and has her minivan back.
Yes, I was worn out after that, so it took a day before I could tell you all.
2007 Mini Cooper S. Prior owner must have been hacking around after reading performance posts on a Mini forum somewhere as I found a crumbly PCV hose made up of rock hard, cracked up tiny hose and brittle plastic tees plumbed straight into the intake via nozzles glued into it very sloppily. I’m not surprised that the downstream throttle air leaks, combined with stripped out screws in the air filter housing, are causing all of this. I ordered the proper hose, pulled the adapter plugs and block off plugs, and plan to seal up the holes vs. buying a used intake. Work will be completed when the new PCV hose arrives.
2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500. Vapor canister vent valve is crusted up and no longer venting. Got under the grimy, muddy beast and changed out the dead valve. Took 20 minutes, mostly due to avoiding the sand and mud falling into my eyes to get it installed. No more check engine light, and remote start is reinstated now that it’s off.
2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon. Right side growly wheel bearing up front. Dead ABS sensor. Pulled wheel, removed brakes and stubborn rotor (with much effort; it did not want to leave its happy home without a lot of persuasion) and worked mightily to remove the three mounting bolts on the hub. This took a lot of effort as whoever was in there before (evidenced by the heavy use of zip ties on brake lines and the damaged sensor; they didn’t even trim the zip ties!) used half a bottle of RED locktite on the bolts. They did not come out without a lot of effort. The heads were 12 point and could give the Titanic a run for crust. Swapped in the new parts, cleaned the bolts as they were still reusable after the crust and many pounds of locktite was wire wheeled off. Fixed, and the ABS light, along with the growl, was gone.
2014 Chrysler Town & Country. The engine has been dripping oil all over and my inspection showed a damaged, leaky oil filter cooler housing as the cause. Took it all apart and swapped out the plugs (NGKs went in) and coils since they were accessible. New standard plastic housing went back in, and buttoned up around twilight. Road test shows the minivan runs even better with the new coils and plugs, and no more burning oil stink. Fixed the last one, and my brother is pleased, as it means his wife will no longer use his Jeep (above) and has her minivan back.
Yes, I was worn out after that, so it took a day before I could tell you all.
Wife and I took the day off. She has type 1 diabetes and has her annual Ophthalmologist appointment this morning. Her eyes will be dilated and she can’t drive herself back home. We plan on going to Polaris Fashion Place for dinner and and to look at spring clothes.
Also non-vehicular: I teamed up with my BIL to repair a transom which popped out and crashed on the floor breaking 2 of its 4 lites.
When I work on wooden windows I refinish them entirely. Sand, wash, prime, paint. I bed the lites in silicone sealer and putty them up after it dries. So today is putty, paint (one window) then we move an expected 6 wheel barrows of top soil to extend the lawn.
When I work on wooden windows I refinish them entirely. Sand, wash, prime, paint. I bed the lites in silicone sealer and putty them up after it dries. So today is putty, paint (one window) then we move an expected 6 wheel barrows of top soil to extend the lawn.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 2,210
Tuesday I tore the Impala down and got the timing cover cleaned up, then set up my brake lathe and practiced on a few scrap brake rotors. I've got the rotor cutting head dialed in, need to find some scrap drums and get the drum head dialed in. Yesterday I finished the Impala. Today I'm expecting the parts for the mustang, but I've squeezed in a transmission removal on a 1995 Chevrolet Silverado. Customer is taking it to get rebuilt. I'll get it out then probably start working on the mustang.
Front brakes on a 2018 “platinum” Ford Explorer. 55k on vehicle