Wet Dual Clutch Transmission, long-term reliability (particularly Hyundai - Kia)

Hmmm, what kind of specialized tools VW requires? Does that mean that if one works on VW thinks that GM needs specialized tools?
And to think VW is unreliable but here is “regular old Silverado” as benchmark 😂
You are special. Lol. Vw is right up there with BMW reliability.
How many 20 year old Audi's are still running perfectly after 255k miles and 11,200 hours of working in construction. Lol. You're seriously going to compare a euro car to a GMT800 platform truck? Give your head a shake man.
 
You are special. Lol. Vw is right up there with BMW reliability.
How many 20 year old Audi's are still running perfectly after 255k miles and 11,200 hours of working in construction. Lol. You're seriously going to compare a euro car to a GMT800 platform truck? Give your head a shake man.
Idk, but, bankruptcy records might tell us something.
 
Ok, let me clarify that for you Native settler here: tell us, fools, who drive VW’s, what should we look for? What exact issues VW have, so I can look for, after owning 30+ of them, between personal vehicles, and ones as part of my business. I am all eyes and maybe ears.
Piston rings, turbos, water pump, mechatronic, etc.
 
Right. You don't know anything about the gmt800 and I don't know anything about the 30 VW you owned. If they are so great, why did you need 30 of them?
Idk, maybe bcs. i had delivery fleet? You know, business, using vehicles to deliver goods from point A to point B? You should check concept, it is interesting.
 
Plenty of VW's running around with a couple hundred kmiles+. There are also incidences of VW's dying dead as a doormat in the first couple years. The same is true for all brands, VW is probably about average I am thinking.....If someone doesn't like VW's, that's ok. I Am the same about Subarus. No personal owner experience but a boatload of ricochet experience from friends and family. I won't buy one. I am not an automotive mechanic, I do have North of $50K worth of equipment and tools to work on cars though. I am pretty good at it and repair/maintain a lot of vehicles, mostly free of charge less parts. I have been around many auto mechanics over the last 6 decades. I wouldn't let 80% of them put air in my tires.
 
I like my VW's too and have owned 12 of them, starting with a 1970 VW Beetle (we have also owned at least one vehicle from each major manufacturer (3 of those currently)). The Dasher we owned was a poor car and everything on it broke (all 4 suspension springs, all window cranks, seat springs, etc) though it never stranded me. My experience with everything else, from Passats to Jettas, Golfs (incl. a GTI) and Tiguans has been either good or excellent. The worst experience I had with any of them (beyond the Dasher) was a leaking water pump on the GTI which was covered by a recall spurred by a class action suit. I am religious about basic maintenance at factory recommended intervals. We currently have a 2010 TDI with a DSG transmission and it is functioning flawlessly at 80K miles and will be getting fresh DSG fluid and filter this coming weekend (as stated above, it's a factory 40K service interval). We have owned 3 DSG equipped VWs and have had no problems with any of them. YMMV 😁
 
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Plenty of VW's running around with a couple hundred kmiles+. There are also incidences of VW's dying dead as a doormat in the first couple years. The same is true for all brands, VW is probably about average I am thinking.....If someone doesn't like VW's, that's ok. I Am the same about Subarus. No personal owner experience but a boatload of ricochet experience from friends and family. I won't buy one. I am not an automotive mechanic, I do have North of $50K worth of equipment and tools to work on cars though. I am pretty good at it and repair/maintain a lot of vehicles, mostly free of charge less parts. I have been around many auto mechanics over the last 6 decades. I wouldn't let 80% of them put air in my tires.

Funny, we've owned 6 Subarus (for reasons I can't fully explain or justify) and I absolutely despise them. We refer to them as "mostly engineered cars". From rear subframes rusting away to failure, multiple wheel bearing failures, tensioner failures, wiper motor failures, multiple head gasket failures (repackaged Bars Leaks anyone?), electrical gremlins that defied diagnosis and finally a lower end failure on an H6, I have to look away when I see one coming down the road ;) Again, just my experience, YMMV!
 
Funny, we've owned 6 Subarus (for reasons I can't fully explain or justify) and I absolutely despise them. We refer to them as "mostly engineered cars". From rear subframes rusting away to failure, multiple wheel bearing failures, tensioner failures, wiper motor failures, multiple head gasket failures (repackaged Bars Leaks anyone?), electrical gremlins that defied diagnosis and finally a lower end failure on an H6, I have to look away when I see one coming down the road ;) Again, just my experience, YMMV!
Almost sounds to be worse than a Hyundai. I have owned a Subaru 2.2L wagon. Both have been good to me. The Hyundai gets the piss beaten out of it daily.
 
Better a wet clutch transmission than a dry clutch imo... Not many made it past 50k miles on the original clutches (and often clutch actuator $$$$) in the tucson. Maybe they did better in the USA where longer distances are travelled
The wet clutch Hyundai’s are an in house design copy of the VW/Audi DSG altered to avoid patents in some areas. As far as the dry clutches mine is just starting to slip at 50,000 of increased hp and massive abuse. I have a new “ cryoed “ clutch/pressure plate and new ” cryoed” dual mass flywheel sitting in wait. With the 7 speed dual clutch in a tuned thrashed car replacing both is a must. The 7 speed transmissions guts are robust enough to handle 300 hp. There are no aftermarket dual clutches available and I would bet you would not get more the 30,000 to 40,000 miles on a 300 hp AWD car with stuffed turbo if it is highly thrashed.
 
The wet clutch Hyundai’s are an in house design copy of the VW/Audi DSG altered to avoid patents in some areas. As far as the dry clutches mine is just starting to slip at 50,000 of increased hp and massive abuse. I have a new “ cryoed “ clutch/pressure plate and new ” cryoed” dual mass flywheel sitting in wait. With the 7 speed dual clutch in a tuned thrashed car replacing both is a must. The 7 speed transmissions guts are robust enough to handle 300 hp. There are no aftermarket dual clutches available and I would bet you would not get more the 30,000 to 40,000 miles on a 300 hp AWD car with stuffed turbo if it is highly thrashed.

juddering on take off was the most common complaint, there was a revised clutch set and tcu reflash for this. Both needed to be done together. When the clutches are done, the clutch actuatoris usually trash aswell and the forks are bent.
 
juddering on take off was the most common complaint, there was a revised clutch set and tcu reflash for this. Both needed to be done together. When the clutches are done, the clutch actuatoris usually trash aswell and the forks are bent.
Good the know about the forks. I was going back and forth about getting them, I will now. I was worried a bit about clutch material getting into the pivots bearing shafts too. Also I did get the TCU flash and at the time did not have a juddering problem. I just wanted the revised coding I am in good with the service manager and I was getting the 3rd degree by the #2 when I dropped it off as "needing the flash" and the service manager knew my thoughts on the horrible coding that the original TCU code had he stopped the grilling for justification in the mids of the coming #2's denial, The service manager cut her off mid sentence and said" Nope, do it and do it under warranty, reflash it."

I did it because I knew a DCT engineer "touched" the code and they would "update" the code to enhance the the full throttle engagement a bit and the over all coding would be more polished. The original code DCT works so nicely if driven like grandpa and grandma, but as a "tuner car" not so much. The original code at a full throttle shifting run would slam the shift and just pound the trans, kind of like a speed shift with full throttle left to the floor during the shift. In the new flash fixed the slaming shifts and the slow in town start off they slipped the clutch a bit more. I will wait on the acuators, as they are not internal, so I can throw that on later. I am also having them replace the main seal and the trans nose shaft seal as I am keeping the car. I would like to have your guys i20 N 7 speed trans file to be honest. That would make it even better I bet.
 
Good the know about the forks. I was going back and forth about getting them, I will now. I was worried a bit about clutch material getting into the pivots bearing shafts too. Also I did get the TCU flash and at the time did not have a juddering problem. I just wanted the revised coding I am in good with the service manager and I was getting the 3rd degree by the #2 when I dropped it off as "needing the flash" and the service manager knew my thoughts on the horrible coding that the original TCU code had he stopped the grilling for justification in the mids of the coming #2's denial, The service manager cut her off mid sentence and said" Nope, do it and do it under warranty, reflash it."

I did it because I knew a DCT engineer "touched" the code and they would "update" the code to enhance the the full throttle engagement a bit and the over all coding would be more polished. The original code DCT works so nicely if driven like grandpa and grandma, but as a "tuner car" not so much. The original code at a full throttle shifting run would slam the shift and just pound the trans, kind of like a speed shift with full throttle left to the floor during the shift. In the new flash fixed the slaming shifts and the slow in town start off they slipped the clutch a bit more. I will wait on the acuators, as they are not internal, so I can throw that on later. I am also having them replace the main seal and the trans nose shaft seal as I am keeping the car. I would like to have your guys i20 N 7 speed trans file to be honest. That would make it even better I bet.

Glad to hear the tcu flas on it's own, worked. We were warned by Hyundai to never do one without the other as the car would be horrible to drive. So we never did.
 
Glad to hear the tcu flas on it's own, worked. We were warned by Hyundai to never do one without the other as the car would be horrible to drive. So we never did.
Over on this side of the pond the new TCU flash was a flash only, they did not push a new clutch as part of the deal. The flash WAS the fix. then if that did not work they would push the clutch. The flash helped a just starting slipping clutch too. It got me another year on this clutch. I have been do a complete redo do on my daughters new to her 1884 farm house and did not have time to play with the actuators to even increase more clutch pressure as you know the clutch system actually pulls pressure to hold the clutch as the clutch disks are free spinning in resting mode and in the box mode. I have the key tool, just no time this year to play with my car. I will be letting the dealer install my clutch as I want someone who has installed 50 of these to do the work as it is a kind of different beast with the final adjustments.
 
Also as far as reliability the first year 2018 ( Europe/North America. 2017 in Asia ) for the Kona 7 speed "world car". The 2018 7 speeds were built by the A team and rock solid. The 2019 especially were built by the C- team and they had issue where they were swapping out new 2019 7 speeds a lot. Brand new cars with 1,000 miles were getting new 7 speeds. I did not follow the later years or I can't remember it now how the later years 7 speed reliability worked out.
 
Over on this side of the pond the new TCU flash was a flash only, they did not push a new clutch as part of the deal. The flash WAS the fix. then if that did not work they would push the clutch. The flash helped a just starting slipping clutch too. It got me another year on this clutch. I have been do a complete redo do on my daughters new to her 1884 farm house and did not have time to play with the actuators to even increase more clutch pressure as you know the clutch system actually pulls pressure to hold the clutch as the clutch disks are free spinning in resting mode and in the box mode. I have the key tool, just no time this year to play with my car. I will be letting the dealer install my clutch as I want someone who has installed 50 of these to do the work as it is a kind of different beast with the final adjustments.

Because of the cost involved, we did as many as possible under warranty, and replaced the actuators asa matter of fact. If one managed to calibrate the new clutch set on the old actuators, it was usually just a matter of time, you'd be replacing them before the next year. Sucks if the 5 year warranty expired by then, those things used to be hella expensive. reliability (as far as the juddering goes) was very low, I think we did all of them around the 50k mark usually.
 
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