Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
The filter I am using is rated for something like a 70 GPM hydraulic system. I had to install fittings to step down the ports from a little over an inch, down to the half inch my system needed. My transmission would pretty much have to self-destruct on its own in order to plug this filter a good amount. I've since installed a pressure differential gauge by taking advantage of 2 of the four 1/8"NPT ports on the filter head, and can confirm that 20k miles of driving has yet to have any effect on this filter. It is ridiculously oversized for its application. The third port gives me converter outlet temperature, which is a lot more important than fluid bulk temperature is.
Bypass filtration absolutely works. I know enough Ford Super Duty owners who have gone to change out their OEM NTZ bypass filters to know that. Same situation every time. Filter is black as pitch, fluid is clear and cherry red.
I'm still considering using a toilet paper bypass filter in order to get that nice sub-micron clean out of it, but that will be later. No real need right now.
Doublewasp - it sounds like you have addressed this well with your mega-capacity through filter + all of the additional safeguards you have added. BTW, i have an NTZ toilet paper filter (housing + filter) - but have not yet added it to my Honda, operated in bypass fashion. Interesting feedback you provide re the Ford Superduty transmissions with cartridge style bypass filters. Encouraging...
One challenge folks may face in plumbing one in to the transmission cooling lines is how to "bead" or create a bulge in the cut lines. If they are Imperial size, just use a compression fitting, remove the hex collar, then use acid paste and lead-tin solder the brass ferule onto the cad plated line. If metric, then get a metric compression ftg and do the same? They also could use a Parker beading machine.