One of these would probably work too.
I get it!!! Thank you! I would have about killed for those yesterday!They are universals.
Nope, not enough room and I have of those in Torx.One of these would probably work too.
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My mistake, it's a T40 not a T25. OP is corrected.I own a set of these:
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/saupxt7/7-piece-torx-universal-impact-driver-set
You can buy an individual:
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/AUPXT25
The 8HP75 on my truck uses a T40, surprised that yours is a T25.
That’s just a 1/4“ hex torx bit in a 1/4” female universal socket. And held in somehow….
Yes and no. It’s more compact. Swaged together. A purpose built, compact tool. No worries of having the bit fall out while trying to work and shorter than a bit in a socket.That’s just a 1/4“ hex torx bit in a 1/4” female universal socket. And held in somehow….
I haven’t found anything more compact than these:Yes and no. It’s more compact. Swaged together. A purpose built, compact tool. No worries of having the bit fall out while trying to work and shorter than a bit in a socket.
And available in T40.
Their universal sockets are compact, very useful for tight quarters work.
Yes, that’s exactly what I needed!
That’s a nice tool, and I like that it plugs right into an impact.
I think each tool can potentially serve a different purpose. I don't think one option is necessarily "better" than the other. However...However, it’s six inches long with limited articulation. It also has a large head.
The "joint" style universals may have a greater range of motion (compared to the ball style), but they are not very usable at extreme angles anyway. For this reason, I personally find the ball style universals to be more practical.There are places on my Mercedes where that will not fit, due to the limited articulation, and large head.
But the 1/4” drive universal socket will fit, because of the very small head and good articulation of the universal. Can’t use a driver in a space that small anyway.
@clinebarger any idea where the large chunks of metal would be coming from and are they a concern?
Yes, I would say they look aluminum.Most likely from machining, They look Aluminum? 8HP's have a ton of Aluminum parts in them plus the Case itself.....So a few stray machining chips is to be expected. No concern!
My understanding is this dosent work with the 8HP75 do to it has a thermostatically controlled cooler?You basically disconnect the cooler return line, put a length of clear, vinyl tubing on it, put the other end into an oil container, start the engine in park and let the transmission pump out the ATF. You will probably get close to a gallon before you see bubbles, then you shut the engine off and top off the ATF. I do it until I see clear ATF flowing through the tube, which is around the total ATF capacity of the transmission.
Here is how I did it on my Grand Caravan. In my case the lines are super easy to access on the transmission. Not sure how the access looks like on your Durango.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/2015-grand-caravan-super-easy-atf-exhchange.275419/.
The original OEM pan had a drain plug, today the OEM pans don't. You either need to put a plug into the pan, remove the pan for each spill and fill, or buy an aftermarket pan like a PPE that has a drain plug.Sorry to revive an old thread but how do you go about doing this “spill and fill” on the Durango? I have an 18 R/T with 60k miles. I was thinking of doing this method for some cheap preventative maintenance
****... was afraid of that because ive never seen a drain plug on mine, was hopeful there was something i was missing lolThe original OEM pan had a drain plug, today the OEM pans don't. You either need to put a plug into the pan, remove the pan for each spill and fill, or buy an aftermarket pan like a PPE that has a drain plug.