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That's one anecdote though.
We Are Obsessed But Does It Really Matter
- Thread starter AEHaas
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Again, data please. The likelihood of this occurring with standard weight oils (50w or less) is basically zero.
Edit: winter startups are the obvious exception, here.
Thanks… I was looking for that figure. The big chunk is main bearings. Second is piston jets. The oil pump relief starts around 2000 RPM. Higher viscosity would be less flow due to pump relief and that is higher bearing temp. You cannot use engine oil pressure reliable with oil bypass happening.
Apologize if I do not know your response to past discussions. Suppose there was a problem, 1 bearing spun or worn. Suppose you use a higher viscosity oil in a tight tolerance modern bearing. Seems Motorking had a real life observation.
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4WD
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I personally only use 20’s & 30’s on the road … Maybe 10W30 (3.5 HTHS) or 5W40 in my generators …
Feliz Navidad
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This idea that "modern bearing" clearances are such a huge different really needs to stop in my opinion. It hasn't been the 50s for a very long time. Bearing clearances aren't tightening little by little every year...
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Yeah - there’s always the tolerance -vs- clearance confusion as well … I do think the digital world can help keep the lower end concentric and accurate on a 3 axis basis - that and added stiffness helps keep parts separated …
Formula 1 engines pre heat the oil prior to installing in the engine prior to starting.
https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/engine/clearing-the-air-on-bearing-clearances/
Play the video at the end…
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What does that have to do with any application that any member of this board would actually experience first-hand though? F1 engines don't even use valve springs, the valves are opened and closed pneumatically. They use push-rod suspension too, with tiny little torsion bars instead of coil springs. It's interesting, but it doesn't apply to us as we're buying Supertech off the shelf and getting struts from RockAuto.
Not for you then… the reason to heat the oil. Oil is too thick at startup. Wear issues at startup. They use 10w-60
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I could be missing something but I don't see how this ties back to MotorKing's Cadillac having gone into limp mode.
I read that whole article and watched the video. It's talking about blueprinted engine builds, not mass produced factory engines. I don't disagree with anything they said, but I don't get the connection. Mass produced engines are not as tight as what is being built methodically on a stand.
I guess I should have specified that I was talking about regular mass produced engines to begin with. My bad.
According to the article the tight bearing clearance requires thinner oil. Also it is not just tight bearing clearance but the crank needs perfect balance. (blueprinting crank back in my time) Hardware fix required there too.
What would be helpful would be the exact code it threw to go into limp mode. On the freeway (RPM), changed oil viscosity, high oil temperature…
Assuming he returned to his normal oil viscosity….
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Right, but mass produced run of the mill everyday engines don't have these super tight clearances is my point.
And my point is engines are made better now than when I was in auto shop talking about blueprinting a crank. (to fix imperfections) The OM viscosity oil is correct. (IMO)
At least for my 2019 Miata, YMMV (your manufacturer may vary)
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I think it does matter, reason is...safe bet we can get a new engine to 100-150K miles, but what about the next 100-150K or more.
Also, many engines incorporate numerous tiny oil passages so long-term ownership IMO can benefit from added cleanliness and anything that adds wear and protection against deposits.
Also, many engines incorporate numerous tiny oil passages so long-term ownership IMO can benefit from added cleanliness and anything that adds wear and protection against deposits.
Wrong. They heat the oil so it's as close as possible to operating temp when the checkered flag drops.
What really matters most is following the owners manual and what is Specified in there. If it says 0W20 full synthetic then that’s what I use. I don’t go off of anything posted here in the treads; because its advice and you get what you pay for. There’s a lot of info but I wouldn’t follow 90 percent of what is recommended in half of these posts.
That said Merry Christmas.
That said Merry Christmas.
If the sole criteria were the longevity of the engine then I’d agree. But that isn’t it. We’ve read in CAFE award letters exactly what and why an owner’s manual lists an oil and it is for one singular reason. If that’s also your singular reason then go for it.
I like talking to a smart guy…
https://www.auto123.com/en/news/f1-technique-how-to-start-a-formula-1-engine-part-1/35675/
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Lawd have mercy... Y'all are silly sometimes! Who in their right mind uses anything less than Pennrite 25W-70?!? The perfect 4 season oil for any engine and climate! Period!
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