Water Pump - Ford Ranger

[larryinnewyork]

My 2002 Ford Ranger with
3 Liter / 6 Cylinder I believe called Vulcan
Currently 133,000 miles

5 years ago it was leaking coolant.
Indy mechanic could not find leak.
Ford Dealer knew where leak was (timing cover gasket) so I said "fix it"
Also had new water pump (oem) installed

To make a long story short:
I see coolant puddled on engine next to water pump.
It took me several years to determine the mess on the hood was coolant.
The reservoir was down 3/4" over Winter.
I think this is a poor design because the water pump bolts onto timing chain cover, which then bolts onto engine.

This Weekend, I'm going to remove radiator (more elbow room) and check the 13 bolts holding the water pump on.
What I plan on looking at is:
1) Is gasket leaking or is leak thru bolt holes.
I'd like to remove one bolt at a time and look for the ones requiring sealant.
Note: 3 bolts are longer and require sealant be put on threads for proper seal.
2) Are all bolts torqued correctly
3) Is gasket leaking.


If I need to add Sealant to bolt threads, I have Permatex #2 and
Permatex Ultra Black.

I tried to fix the 'original' leak, but did not have the tools or experience.
I'm have moderate experience in these matters. Mostly enjoy doing PM.
I have done all repairs except for the (1) Dealer repair.

Anybody have any words of wisdom or general advise ? ? ?
I have the Haynes Repair Manual.

Thank you.

 

[yvon_la]

likely was badely assembled .( exemple: guy dismount everything ,didnt film himself and then didnt know stuff went to specific place or part installed was wrong one ( washer too thick bolt too long etc) bottom line try to get the plan of the thing so when you dismount you ll see culprit right away ,also make sure to verify recall list for the year , maybe everything is within spec but not recall spec. if a recall was done for something most wouldnt verify unless your dealer is meticulous ( good luck)if by some chance everything is fine then send the radiator liquid for analysis . why? to make sure radiator liquid was clean stuff and not old school stuff ,if is is old school stuff you are out of luck ,could have shewed tru one of something ( cylinder wall ,water pump hose etc

 

[Vern_in_IL]

If the Water pump seals are good, I would be TEMPTED to use Bar's Leak!!! The black pebble kind that comes in the grey bottle.


I would use that if it had a history of a leak.

If you can afford some downtime, I would just tear into it big league! Maybe a coolant leak dye would help narrow down the issue. That way you will know where to look.

 

[Trav]

Before you get any further into this get yourself an inexpensive UV dye and light kit, clean it well, put the dye in the coolant and give it a little time, maybe a few days then check it at night with the UV light.
You will see exactly where the leak is coming from. Once you know that the rest is easy. You can get other dyes for engine oil, transmission, PS, etc and use the same light.

http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-375CS-Radiator-Coolant-Dye/dp/B002M4E0VC

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NBW...rd_i=B002M4E0VC

 

[larryinnewyork]

I do have some Radiator Dye & Light.
I forgot about it.
I'll add the Dye, I'm sure it will help.
Thanks.

I'm hoping for something simple.
Like the Dealer Mechanic did not put sealant on the 3 bolts that need it.

Like I said, this Weekend I'm planning on fixing this.

 

[tomcat27]

maybe this is information that is outdated and does not apply, but at one time Ford used to advertise "lifetime" repairs at the dealer. is this still around?

I, too, have used the UV die and a black light to trace leaks. I found 3 different leaks in my brother's car with this method - where I could not pinpoint the leak without it.

 

[andyd]

If coolant is leaking out of the weep hole then the pump is shot.

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

I have used a black Light to locate leaks with great success; both coolant and oil. The darker the engine compartment, the better. Garage at night without lights is GREAT.

You don't really need any dye. Dexcool is orange/red under UV light and propylene glycol will be yellow/green. Of course, the dye will help, but I notice it is not compatible with Dexcool...Not that it matters, Dexcool shows under UV light just fine.

What you can also do is CLEAN the engine at a car wash prior to looking for leaks. What I have done more than once is make a strong solution of blue Palmolive dish soap in a plastic garden sprayer. I can raise the hood and/or jack the car up, block it, and crawl under, spray down the area I want clean to my heart's content, let it soak a few minutes, then use the high pressure rinse at a car wash. It is much easier to locate leaks with the surrounding area CLEAN; and just let the engine idle awhile till nice and dry.

Once the area is clean, you might also want to try this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/CANTESCO-Penetrant...trant+developer

It is more or less a spray talcum powder. It will give you a snow white dry background and leaks will definitely show up as wet spots. When you're done, it will rinse off with water.

 

[Lyman]

Originally Posted By: andyd
If coolant is leaking out of the weep hole then the pump is shot.

THIS!

 

[Kruse]

Originally Posted By: tomcat27
maybe this is information that is outdated and does not apply, but at one time Ford used to advertise "lifetime" repairs at the dealer. is this still around?



OP said his water pump was replaced ~5 years ago.
I don't know when Ford dropped the "lifetime warranty" on their repairs, but I bet it was about 15 years ago, maybe more.

 

[bdcardinal]

Lifetime warranty went away long before I started with Ford 9 years ago.

 

[larryinnewyork]

OP here.

I should have mentioned the 'weep hole' is NOT leaking.
It's on top of the pump and I've checked it many times.

Any repairs I can do myself is great because I save on the Labor.
Just parts I don't mind buying.
I'm hoping this leak was caused by the Dealer not putting 'sealant' on 1 of the 3 longer bolts.

I'll add the 'dye' today and report back Monday morning.

Thanks all.

 

[artificialist]

Sometimes corrosion ruins the timing cover on these engines. Keep that in mind as you remove parts for repair.

 

[Lubener]

Originally Posted By: artificialist
Sometimes corrosion ruins the timing cover on these engines. Keep that in mind as you remove parts for repair.


Those Vulcans were famous for that. I had a Ranger with the same engine and thought a water pump was leaking, turned out to be the heater control valve was leaking, the coolant ran down towards the front before dripping.

 

[larryinnewyork]

OP here.

Well, I added the 'dye' to the coolant.
Got underneath and looked around.
The leak is behind the Timing Chain Cover.
The bolts that I could get to were tight.

I'm hesitant in adding any magical leak stop concoction.
I want to get this fixed correctly.
Guess I'll stop by my local indy mechanic and get an estimate.

Hopefully when the time comes, the Timing Chain Cover will be useable.
I seem to remember Thermostate Covers being corroded.

Bummer.

 

[01rangerxl]

Originally Posted By: larryinnewyork

I seem to remember Thermostate Covers being corroded.



Mine did that, but hasn't had anything else corrode.

You can get Motorcraft water necks on RockAuto for a pretty reasonable price. There are also aftermarket ones available.

Mine had corrosion near the top of the water neck where the hose goes on. It would sometimes dribble coolant from the hose end, and has almost always had small intermittent leaks from the base of the water neck at the gasket. No corrosion at the base though, and no corrosion throughout the rest of the cooling system. The inside of the intake manifold where the water neck bolts on is spotless inside. I replaced the water neck with a Motorcraft and a Felpro PermaDry Plus composite framed gasket, and it still occasionally leaks. Not bad, and I have to add maybe half a quart over the course of a year, so I just leave it alone.

It also has an intermittent leak at the heater control valve. I replaced that with aftermarket (Napa Solutions, which is usually Dorman), and it leaked worse than the original one right off the bat.

Vulcans like to leak coolant, and oil. If it's not out of control or mixing, I've learned to just leave it alone. That said, there is not one spot of coolant around my truck's untouched timing cover and WP, just oil.

 

[Lubener]

You are likely going to replace the timing cover, I doubt the gasket fell apart.