Liquid Wrench on nuts/bolts for future removal

[ctechbob]

May I suggest some of the Project Farm tests with various penetrating oils. This concept was tested.

The plexiglass test? Problem is....its plexiglass, it isn't also rusting and fusing to the bolt.

 

[LWood]

I use a 50/50 mix of Acetone and Atf the day before I am starting a project on my 03 ram, I reapply an hour or 2 before proceeding with removal of whatever I am working on.
I use a smaller brush to apply it with eye protection as well as a long sleeve shirt etc and it's worked every time I needed. Living in Northern Illinois everything gets rusty on the bottom of the truck,quick tip though,no open flames though as the Acetone is highly flammable.
Larry

 

[Snagglefoot]

The plexiglass test? Problem is....its plexiglass, it isn't also rusting and fusing to the bolt.

Actually, the one where they remove the nut and you can see how far the penetrant when up the bolt. Some were useless and some were good.

 

[rijndael]

I'll use just about any penetrant around. I haven't found one better than another.

If it's super stuck, I'll use the Mini-Ductor.

 

[Astro14]

I don’t think you accomplish anything by using PB Blaster or liquid wrench to make fasteners easier to move in the distant future. Both products are excellent for moving stuck, seized bolts when used with a little heat. The stuff to use for long term ease of removal is anti seize. Fluid film is a good treatment, too. I know an old mechanic who wipes the smallest amount of motor oil on threads….

The person who thinks that the impact wrench is the right solution is playing checkers in a chess room.

I agree that anti-seize is the way to go, and I have regular, copper, and nickel, depending on the application.

..but I can’t see pre-emptively removing every bolt on the car just to apply antiseize in anticipation of future repairs, which was the intent of the OP…

He’s not talking about removing a bolt today - he is talking about regularly applying penetrant to make a bolt easier to remove in some, unspecified, future timeframe.

 

[Arc]

I use some chassis grease that may have oozed out of a tie rod or ball joint.

Same here.

 

[K-Man]

I agree that anti-seize is the way to go, and I have regular, copper, and nickel, depending on the application.

This. Anti-seize is made exactly for the purpose the OP describes, assuming it's something you're assembling that you might need to service in the future.

 

[MyWifesBoyfriend]

Hah, I do the exact same thing during seasonal tire swaps. I hit all of the suspension hardware with Liquid Wrench penetrating fluid, especially the tie rod nuts. I think it helps breakdown gunk that has accumulated overtime.

Also, I cannot stand the smell of PB Blaster. Liquid Wrench is still smelly stuff, but more tolerable to me.

 

[RooflessVW]

I don't like PB Blaster because of the acid it has in it. You splash it on your skin and it stings. You get it in your eyes you better be running to the faucet. Long term use of it will actually cause more corrosion because of the acid.

Liquid Wrench has a very pungent smell, but at least it won't burn your skin.

Gonna have to back that up.

What acid?

 

[IndyIan]

In theory, a penetrant should have some acids in it to dissolve rust, so I save that stuff for spraying the day before I'm going to remove those particular fasteners. I find liquid wrench works well for that and I assume the smell is from some sulfur compounds, the same as hypoid gear oil, which does attack copper, and it almost entirely dries up, so I don't think its a great idea to spray it on for long term protection.
I just use a shot of rust spray like fluid film, or a drop or two of oil out of the oil can, which has some dregs of chainsaw oil, motor oil, tractor fluid, all mixed together. I find I get some corrosion on almost every fastener under the hood unless I put a drop on every one I can see and it keeps them from rusting. The rust sprays are more rubber and plastic safe so I'll shoot everything in the suspension too when I swap tires. So far I haven't broke any bolts that I've oiled since new or nearly new. Some older cars I've got where this hasn't been done have much crustier fasteners!

 

[mattd]

Not usually, no. I go right to the acetylene torch.

 

[SonofaBoomer]

Ive used a 50% transmission fluid 50% 2stroke oil mixture. Penetrates and lubes. Get a gallon of each and you will be able to make as much as you'll ever need.

I use both regularly so always have it on hand.

 

[grasscutter]

Gonna have to back that up.

What acid?

You're right. There's no acid listed in the MSDS. I always assumed it had acid because of how painful it is.

 

[Kurtatron]

I agree with the suggestions here. Better to protect the bolts from rust rather than penetrating the threads with oil. Rust-free bolts come out nice and easy.

I’ve worked on California cars and Michigan cars. California car made the work feel luxurious compared to Michigan car.