Have you asked them what they use?
Viscosity Grade recommendation for Death Valley
- Thread starter OilUzer
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Probably Castrol Edge Euro Car 10W-60. Specified by BMW for The M Motors. Now we talking thick!
I've run my 5 cylinder Volvo engines (all non-turbo) on prescribed 5W-30 and 0W-30 (Castrol Euro), 0W-40 (Mobil1 Euro) and 5W-40 (Kodiak).
Would I feel a difference if I used that 10W-60 oil in the Summer?
Would it result in an eerie silently running engine?
Would I feel a difference if I used that 10W-60 oil in the Summer?
Would it result in an eerie silently running engine?
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The jokePrawns. No puts “shrimps” on the bbq except maybe Americans. Also, no one really put prawns on the bbq. Also, that’s Australia
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Your head
No, subject never came up. But one guy I talk to often drives a C8 Corvette.
Do the side scoops have sand filters like helicopters?
You can get stuff like M1 15W50, Valvoline SynPower 10W50, Shell Helix Ultra Racing 10W60 and Castrol Edge Supercar 10W60.
All full synthetics with some combination of API SP/SN and ACEA A3/B3/B4.
None carry OEMs like MB229.5 or Porsche A40.
But the Shell is Ferrari approved and the Edge is VW 505 and BMW M-Model approved.
MolaKule
Staff member
I would go up a grade from the suggested owner manual's for the temperature to be expected and have my cooling system flushed and new coolant added.Death Valley is about 130F.
For my 0/5W-20 passenger cars, I prefer using a good 40 weight synthetic or at a minimum a very stout 30 unless I'm driving downhill.
Last 2 trips to Nevada, I used 40 and iirc, it wasn't even hotter than 95F.
What do you use or recommend?
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Thank you sir!
Can we lock this thread now?
I think summer heat is getting to everyone! lol
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Penrite also make a 10W40 full synthetic that is almost the same except the KV100 = 14.6 cStI will have to try me a 10W-50. Something about 10W that turns me on.
Ooooh! Hard burn!!!
sure,you got you master and phd
see you at bitog in hmm lets say 6 years from now..I thought that VIIs reduce the heat generated by fluid friction by temporary shear in the bearing space.I agree, since most on bitog are using manly Euro 0W-40 oils to cover both extremes! No?
You know, summer is not just a season. Outside dealing with much more seasonal heat, it may mean vacations or long trips with a loaded car (kids, relatives, toys, pet, bikes, camping stuff or other things on top the car, etc.) and potentially much higher travelling speeds and you are not always on a flat land either, meaning you have to push that thing up the hills at high speeds, which means potentially much higher RPMs.
Compare that (load, speed/rpm, heat) to typical winter driving with unloaded car to work or something ...
If I am choosing an oil for the summer, I would rather use the "thicker" stuff during this time and you don't need the 0/5W either and the narrower spread oils will also have less vm (vii) and less shearing/heat. I'm also aware that another "hot" discussion over this same subject is going on in this thread ... lol
All I am saying is that the owner's manuals (outside US), will still reflect that (summer/winter). That's is most of OMs.
And I select my summer and winter oil accordingly which also aligns with the majority of the owner's manual and the old OMs in US.
However, some people (not you) like to twist, dissect and find errors ...
In my example, the new 2024 truck that someone recently (a week ago?) posted from Texas is showing 0W-20 in US owner's manual and the Mexico owner's manual for the same truck is showing 0W-20 as well as options for 5/10/15/20W-30/40/50. Now talk about thick. That may give heart attack to some bitog members.
Not saying anything is wrong with 0W-20 and for one of our cars, I'm currently using our free oil changes with 0W-20 at the dealer but next summer I will be using a "summer oil" or the Mexico OM and will be using most likely a 10W-30 or recently purchased some Euro 0/5W-40 which most likely won't be using in the winter even though it's a 0W. I can get away with a 10W any season in my area.
Therefore a 5w50 with a high percentage of VIIs would generate less fluid friction than a 20w50 or SAE 50 that all have the same viscosity @100C.
Explained another way, let’s say for whatever reason when it’s 50C outside your engine requires an SAE 50 grade engine oil with 19.5@100C to maintain an oil pressure of xx psi @xx rpm.
The oil with the highest percentage of VIIs will have the lowest hths, generate the least heat from fluid friction and produce the highest horsepower.
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Last Saturday 101 Outside but the humidity was not too bad at 49%. When it approaches 100 it's hard to breathe.
Eastern NC
Eastern NC
You are a good driver. And likely doing your engine some good getting it that hot.
Of course oil shearing and friction isn't the only heat sources contributing to making oil temperature rise. I never said or even implied it was the only heat source. My example was to show how oil temperature would rise if all the other factors that heat up the oil, and any active cooling (both water and oil coolung) were removed from the system. If you ran an engine at 2500-3000 RPM with an electric motor until the oil temperature rose and stabilized, it think it would a lot hotter than most would believe it would be.
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