More so than the antifreeze in a lot of cars. 20 psi overpressure has a bigger effect than 50% glycol does.
I have no issues dropping the glycol to 25%, if the coolant change interval drops by 50% aswell.
Viscosity Grade recommendation for Death Valley
- Thread starter OilUzer
- Start date
More so than the antifreeze in a lot of cars. 20 psi overpressure has a bigger effect than 50% glycol does.
I have no issues dropping the glycol to 25%, if the coolant change interval drops by 50% aswell.
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2024
- Messages
- 179
like I said, I dont want to get into long explanations because you and I and everybody else on BITOG could expand on this process exponentially.
@ SubieRubyROO i don't see why are you laughing about that mister
since its not my opinion.a very experienced member told us that:
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2024
- Messages
- 179
you receive a 2.8F increase in boiling point for each 1 psi over atmospheric..
a 10psi system has a boiling point of 240F..
my truck has a 21psi rated system... so technically the boiling point in the cooling system is 270F
a 10psi system has a boiling point of 240F..
my truck has a 21psi rated system... so technically the boiling point in the cooling system is 270F
Wow! If I see my oil temps in that range, I may have a heart attack. lol
I like your oil selection however!
I've read your posts before and I think you use the Castrol 0W-30 A3/B4 aka the "golden" German Castrol with not much vm. No?
Typical (store) Euro 0W-40 is not bad either but will have much more vm.
Are there any thicker oils than 40 grade (e.g. 15/20W-50) with fancy Euro approvals like Porsche A40, etc. Or is the market too thin for that kind of product?
first of all i am a newbie.so i am a learner myself. reading your posts ,with some of them i agree as a question mark, dont know if they are true.see it in your notifications.and in some others i agree with the others.if you read bitog i also tranfered some other owners opinions about that subject from older posts.I really don't care or have time right now to read something from 6 years ago.
It might be interesting to do so but my first instinct is to question your motives. You took (wasted) time and dug up some old thread from 6 years ago to prove what?
Honestly, I clicked on the link cuz I was curios but didn't read it, since it is irrelevant. I joined bitog in 2016 and have learned a lot since then and am still learning ... Obviously not from people like you!
Btw, I have another news for you pal. People go to college and earn a master's or PhD in 6 years. Don't waste your time on pity stuff.
Long live MOFT.
i didnt search for it,but i searched for some other stuff and there it was, your posts in front of me.like i did searched for 0-20 oils and vehicles and i found a post about hot climates and so on.it happens bcs. whenever i have a question on google about oils i always put bitog at the end. bcs. bitog is like news feed ,news letter ,the expert forum about oils to whoever wants to learn.from your reaction it seems that you were annoyed .when someone is annoyed by his own words/posts and starts an agro argument then i know i am right.there you go!
i have learned some things and trying to be openminded to see if i am wrong or not.when members here prove my knowledge are overdate then i accept it.
something you dont. thats why you will never earn you master not even in a 1000 years. and that all the news you need to know.END.
I chuckled because “thicker or more shear stable” is a new spin on the typical “thick vs thin” debate. My choice is picking the thinnest oil needed for protection, that stays in the viscosity & HTHS range where it was designed.
Lighten up a little and have some fun. It’s possible to be both serious about the topic at hand while still laughing about parts of the discussion
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
I ran BMW to 300f at track using Mobil1 0W40. That is before I installed oil cooler which is kind of oversized for my engine. I use in BMW XW40 bcs. track. In winter I try to use Castrol Edge 0W30. I don't need anything thicker than XW40 on track as I have very good cooling system. Thicker oil will create more resistance=more heat and more resistance means less performance.
The problem with going thicker is resistance. If you go thicker, you are also creating more heat. The key is dissipating that heat, not grade per se. I use in Atlas and Tiguan XW30, and with Atlas I do long road trips in summer, mostly in the West. My in-laws live in Las Vegas, so I am very often in that area around Death Valley, and I never give a second thought about oil selection because of temperature. What worries me is if my cooling system is good. I am more worried about going over mountain passes between Vegas and LA at 105f than Death Valley. High ambient temperature and altitude is where problems are. If you look at that photo, you will see the ambient temperature at 70f, but the altitude at that point where I took the photo is 10,500ft.
So if worried, again, dilute coolant. That is far more effective. You can bump grade, but don't go crazy is my point. If 0W20 is recommended, I would go 5W30.
ok,i took it the other way,no hard feelings.you should mention something.i am having fun ,i like this debate.I chuckled because “thicker or more shear stable” is a new spin on the typical “thick vs thin” debate. My choice is picking the thinnest oil needed for protection, that stays in the viscosity & HTHS range where it was designed.
Lighten up a little and have some fun. It’s possible to be both serious about the topic at hand while still laughing about parts of the discussion
actually i send a link from that discussion to other bmw forums,thin vs thick always the best debate!
astro's posts are very explainable and always to the point!
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
But that is all things being equal. If we are talking Motul 300V 0W40 and 10W40, yes, 10W40 is more stable. If we are talking Mobil1 0W40 and some off-the-shelf 10W40, I would always go Mobil1 0W40.
yes thats why i copied the whole post. beeing honest and equal, you did mentioned it.it all depends on the quality of the synthesis of the product ,not grade, ..which 0-40 ,which 5-30 or 10-40?
here is another post of you saying exactly that:
The whole idea that a smaller grade spread will be more shear resistant in a particular application is a generalization. It may or may not be true based on several factors. Number one is whether your specific engine has a problem with mechanical shear of the VM. I contend that most do not. We have seen few verified instances of actual shear on here, most viscosity deviations are due to fuel dilution. So my conclusion is that for most people it does not have a significant impact.
The second factor is the quality of the VII and the amount required due to the base stock composition. Not all are the same. There is currently a long discussion on here about a YouTube personality where shear stability is discussed. As far as I can tell from that discussion Mobil 1 0W-40 is quite shear stable. This points to them using a high-quality VII polymer in that product, or perhaps requiring less to achieve the demonstrated winter performance. Other brands may be similar but were not tested.
Deposit formation is another drawback to a VM but again this depends on the application. But here again it's not just the VM it's the quality of the base stock that also matters. So I am a bit suspicious of avoiding "all" oils just due to the grade spread. There's a lot more that goes into this equation.
The second factor is the quality of the VII and the amount required due to the base stock composition. Not all are the same. There is currently a long discussion on here about a YouTube personality where shear stability is discussed. As far as I can tell from that discussion Mobil 1 0W-40 is quite shear stable. This points to them using a high-quality VII polymer in that product, or perhaps requiring less to achieve the demonstrated winter performance. Other brands may be similar but were not tested.
Deposit formation is another drawback to a VM but again this depends on the application. But here again it's not just the VM it's the quality of the base stock that also matters. So I am a bit suspicious of avoiding "all" oils just due to the grade spread. There's a lot more that goes into this equation.
Prawns. No puts “shrimps” on the bbq except maybe Americans. Also, no one really put prawns on the bbq. Also, that’s AustraliaWell slap my aunt and throw another shrimp on da barbie, we have an actual Kiwi here
For my last 3 trips to Vegas I used:
- M1 FS Euro 0W-40
- Castrol Edge A3/B4 0W-40
- M1 EP 10W-30
M1 EP 10W-30 is one of my favorites I use the most for everything despite not having any fancy Euro approvals! But non of my cars require a "Euro" oil either.
Don't mind using the Edge 0W-30 next (over 0W-40) as I prefer narrower spread oils. Better Noack, less vm.
The part I asked about any Euro 15/20W-50 was just out of curiosity. I will NEVER go that thick!
That's what page3 and beyond for every thread are for anyway. If the answer hasn't come out by page 2, it ain't coming and we're all going on a tangent.
And 50% glycol adds about 20F to that, give or take a degree as I'm going from memory and converting metric to imperial.
Friction and oil shearing adds a lot of heat to the oil, the higher the RPM, the more heat generation. If you rotated an engine with an electric motor at high RPM, and with no active cooling, the steady-state oil temperature would get higher and higher as RPM increased if there was no active cooling and just natural convection heat loss to the ATM.
If the amount of heat input is more than the heat output (cooling by whatever means), then the oil temperature will increase until the heat input vs output are balanced - the steady state conditions. Simple thermodynamics. That's whats happening in terms of just the effect of RPM on oil temperature increase.
If the amount of heat input is more than the heat output (cooling by whatever means), then the oil temperature will increase until the heat input vs output are balanced - the steady state conditions. Simple thermodynamics. That's whats happening in terms of just the effect of RPM on oil temperature increase.
Last edited:
Yes but shearing of the oil isn't the only heat source (it's the major one though). Whenever you get into boundary lubrication, there's an increase in friction that also creates heat. So it's not entirely impossible to go too thin and get substantially increased oil temps (as the oil will be cooling those surfaces afterwards). It's more of an issue with transmissions and differentials though.
I am an amateur radio operator. I often talk to other ham radio operators in countries such as Oman, Kuwait, and others where summer temperatures regularly get into the mid 120F range. And they drive their cars in traffic.
I imagine any motor oil grades suitable for that climate would be fine in the wide open Death Valley environment.
I imagine any motor oil grades suitable for that climate would be fine in the wide open Death Valley environment.
Similar threads
- Question
