No I don’t do 3,750 , I do 3,500 mile / 6 month OCI’s in my 2.4L GDI . I’ve done 4K mile OCI’s before and the oil was getting dark and smelling pretty bad .
Valvoline Restore & Protect
- Thread starter Scott S
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I stick to about 4K miles for my OCI. I can smell the fuel in mine when I change it and my UOA says 5%+. Seems like it has always been that way but I'm thinking maybe the oil control rings being "sticky" may be making this worse. Again, not burning or even really using any oil. If I "get on it" and do the Italian tune-up, I initially get a faint cloud of soot which makes me think it could be my oil control rings. That is why I initially moved to PPE (from Castrol Edge Euro) thinking the GTL might help clean these up. Now, I really wanting to try VRP 5W-30 for the cleaning effects of my oil control rings and see if that makes any difference. Just wished they had a good 0W-40 in the States. Mine is a daily driver.
Sadly, my 2013 BMW X5 test subject, while on its fourth Valvoline R&P fill, messed up for the last time. It left my wife and I stranded for the third time in two years so…I fixed it and sold it. Three strikes and it’s out. I’ve never owned such an annoying vehicle before. Likely won’t ever buy another BMW; at least not their SUVs. I still like their sedans. I will say this much, the 180K mile N55 was going absolutely amazingly with the R&P! It went from 1 quart every 3000 miles to zero consumption after just two intervals of R&P. A friend of mine has seen similar results in his N52 BMW.
But, now I have a 2016 Volvo XC90. I don’t know if it burns oil yet. If it does, it will be a good test for the R&P! If it doesn’t, it’s still getting the R&P!
But, now I have a 2016 Volvo XC90. I don’t know if it burns oil yet. If it does, it will be a good test for the R&P! If it doesn’t, it’s still getting the R&P!
Suffice to say that VR&P has added secret detergents of some sort , but do we know what the impact is on non-metallic engine surfaces (i.e. seals / gaskets) are with long term use of VR&P ? On a fairly well maintained engine which had a synthetic oil diet with reasonable OCI’s during its life - maybe I run two 4K miles OCI’s with VR&P and then return to my regularly used synthetic oil and repeat a couple of years later .
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We don't. But I wouldn't be losing sleep about it.
Non-metallic engine surfaces in contact with engine oils are already subject to several restrictions, as some of the best existing engine oils are already incompatible with many plastics:
The burden on that one is on the engine's manufacturer, not on the oil manufacturer.
Unless coked oil varnish and sludge have the same or similar chemical structure as some of the non-metallic engine surfaces ? In which case ANY oil with ever so slight cleaning properties would be dangerous in the long term.
If the oil complies with standards - it will also comply with the corrosiveness requirements.
If the engine has surfaces susceptible to corrosion by oil - it would either be clearly required to use some oil following specific specs - if modern, or will be equally affected by any modern oil (if it's some classic engine with old school technical solutions used).
In which case owners will know to use specific oils, again.
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Today my mechanic and I did air intake manifold inspection and combustion chamber inspection after 8 months of using Valvoline Restore Protect and after 2 OCI. I posted a video here before we piston soak the engine: BMW 228i N20 100K engine inspection of intake valves and combustion chamber photo analysis (HD) we found carbon scoring and other interesting artifacts within the combustion chamber that VRP could not remove so far and I am unsure at this point if the oil can remove this. We may opt to piston soak than spend $200 CAD per case of oil to continue on the VRP rabbit hole. For us here in Canada importing american oil will only get worse with the tarrif wars which will eliminate it as an option. I will have a couple jugs left of the 5W-30 and a few jugs of Premium Blue Restore for cummins engines which I have been hesitant to use in this car. I may try it later in the summer if we cannot slow oil consuption any further.
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I feel for you guys with the tariff situation. Oil is being mostly exempted on our side from tariffs but I’m not sure how that will work on your end.
Back to the topic, when you refer to carbon scoring the damage is unfortunately already done and I don’t think VRP can solve that problem. The consumption is most likely caused by the micro scratches not sealing and letting it leak past rings, even if you unstick them.
for the carbon buildup in the combustion chamber, Berryman b12 has always done well for me when getting rid of carbon in the combustion chamber and on the piston.
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Thanks for the information about Berrymans b12. Can you explain your procedure? Thanks.
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While rightfully the focus of VR&P has been regarding piston tops and rings cleaning - another place I noticed where VR&P should do well are the small oil openings in engines with VVT solenoids which can get clogged : If those small oil openings get clogged then the VVT solenoids don’t function properly (I believe the VVT are oil pressure driven) which then causes other engine problems .
Use some Redline SI-1 Fuel System Cleaner if you want carbon off the combustion chambers and top of the pistons. Nope, an oil isn't going to clean those parts.
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The piston soak is usually achieved with pulling the spark plugs and putting about 4 oz of solution in each cylinder overnight then spinning it over to remove the liquid. I always top the holes with shop rags to keep the liquid contained.
@ZeeOSix suggestion of the redone S-1 is a good one. It works well on its own and with a piston soak due to its high P.E.A content
I put VRP in my 130,000 mile V6 Canyon that had started using a quart between changes. It is almost time for the first change since the VRP and it has lost no oil. VRP apparently cleaned up clogged oil control rings in just OCI. Now if will clean the direct injection caused deposits on the valves I'll be a happy camper.
Meant to say pistons / rings (piston tops cleaned by fuel additive like Techron) .
Most dealers use oil changes as a loss leader to up-sell other services, often bogus very profitable services. Typically the shop and used car sales is where the big money is made at dealerships. Years ago I worked for one of, if not the biggest Honda dealership in the US. The GM was selling new Accords and Civics at ridiculously low prices. The strategy was three fold, higher allocation of cars from Honda, building up a bigger used car business from lease returns and trades, and building up the repair end of the business for non warranty work. His strategy worked.
What oils did you use up until that point? Is it the LGZ V6?
VRP is turning out to be a pretty remarkable oil.
I would give it some high rpm use to see if you can get some of the VRP to collect on intake valves lol.
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I keep seeing this when I'm looking thru the P66 site and am curious what the bitogers opinions on this are and to see if anyone has tried it out first hand yet as a possible unknown competitor to the new favorite VRP
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Based on the SDS probably nothing special. Just a group 3 carrier oil and standard oil additives that will already be in a well formulated oil
Yes, it is a 2017 Canyon with the LGZ. Prior oils were either Mobil 1 5W-30 or Havoline Lifelong Full Synthetic 5W-30.
Thanks, good to know.
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