One way to find out first hand. Many users have reported a big drop in oil consumption on many different engines. Stuck rings cause oil burning, so if the oil consumption goes way down then obviously the rings were freed up from the cleaning ability of the oil.
Valvoline Restore & Protect
- Thread starter Scott S
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Not really - think I’ll use some of my M1 EP stash next - engine must have been clean already from the M1 AP …
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In a non turbo application I would feel comfortable using VRP 0w-20. It did really well in my r18 motor which makes about the same power.
HPL EC is a full formulated oil to be used in place of regular oil (about 1qt). They recommend 20% about 1qt. 1x EC with 5x qt oil.
It is not an add at the end of an OCI and then dump it. Many users here have used it for full OCI (myself being one). Just like VRP check filter at 2k and adjust for your usage conditions.
My sons Forte had 3 rounds of EC30 at full OCI ~5k miles. I have some pictures of what was in the filter canister after that 3rd one but I'm sending @53' Stude the filter element to cut apart next week before I post those. I did post his top end valve train pictures which was about 1000 miles after and that was spotless. I don't know if from the EC30's or in general but the junk in filter is a lot.
His car is definitely quieter at start up (like piston slap noise) then what it was prior to HPL use. I ran out of EC30 so now use 1 qt of HPL PCMO 5W-30 with whatever oils I am using in three vehicles. We'll see what future filters look like.
Cool. Seems like you are getting good use out of it.
To be clear: I didn’t say it wasn’t to be used for the entire OCI. Nor am I suggesting use as an idle flush, but as a prep for converting to HPL is their own recommendation.
Whether you add to a new interval or at any point during an interval for an oil burner; either is fine.
That said, I wouldn’t run it with VRP. That’s the entire point of my post to the other poster.
If you want to spike the cleansing properties of a typical OTS product not aimed at cleaning well? Sure. If I could run HPL’s fully formulated oil then that’s a better long term approach than blending regardless.
Yes I have heard about these engines, made by Ford i think (probably to no one's surprise). For a car company whose cars have always had issues with reliability, designing an engine with its oil pump driven by a rubber belt BATHED IN OIL, is truly going too far making designed-in defects! Even for FixOrRepairDaily it's over the top. The reason it's a huge problem, is because petroleum attacks rubber and rubber derivatives, especially when literally soaked in it. The rubber belt will slowly degrade and there is literally nothing you can do to stop it. So the only question remaining is, when and at what mileage will that oil pump belt go before it fails? Bear in mind, when that happens, the engine loses oil pressure instantly. So if you happen to be driving at 85 mph on the highway one night when that belt fails, your engine's history. Losing all oil pressure has exactly the same consequences as if your oil drain plug fell out and dumped all your engine oil out.
So my point is, when the idiots at Ford designed in a rubber belt to drive the engine oil pump, it basically has "FAILURE POINT" written all over it straight from the factory. So for these engines, I honestly think the oil you use makes no difference - it's going to fail no matter what.
From experience, wet belts fail from oil dilution (with fuel). Not from the oil itself. Change oil every six months and they last the 10 year replacement interval no worries.
Just changed out my 1st OCI with R&P, didn't notice too much carbon around the filter when I cut it open. Still I got 2 more 5QT jugs of R&P that I'll be running so it'll be interested how it'll be in the end. Might be small detail but I notice that my engine runs a bit more "smoother/quieter".
I noticed slightly higher oil burn running R&P in my 1st OCI, I'm not too sure if it's because the change of oil brands since this is my first time running Valvoline. Maybe the difference between <0.5QT per 5K to now <1QT per 5K oil burn.
I noticed slightly higher oil burn running R&P in my 1st OCI, I'm not too sure if it's because the change of oil brands since this is my first time running Valvoline. Maybe the difference between <0.5QT per 5K to now <1QT per 5K oil burn.
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If you LOOK for a failure point on a modern engine, you will find several possible failure points.
Don’t you think that the level at belt construction is designed to not be susceptible to breakdown from the engine oil? It isn’t just standard 1950’s type rubber construction materials
With over 2,000 posts in this thread, the product is gaining a lot of interest and has some good results imo. I still wish Valvoline would offer it in a 5W40...........
I believe there will be people who run a few OCI’s <5K miles of VR&P then go back to their former oil and then resume running 5K+ mile OCI’s … What do you think will happen in terms of varnish and engine deposits once they resume using their former oil and 5K+ mile OCI’s in mixed driving conditions ? … Running severe service OCI’s would be helpful to prevent / delay deposits returning - that goes double for GDI engines . Lastly, ignore dealer service intervals and go lower - dealers are in the business of selling vehicles - NOT seeing you reach 250K vehicle miles .
BrendanC
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i run it with VRP regularly.
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Dealers make more money off oil changes than new cars. Every dealer near me recommends 5,000 OCIs. We keep going lower, and it will be an oil change after every trip to the grocery store.
Left is at 238K with 5K on Costco Kirkland 5W30
Right is at 243K with 5K on Restore & Protect 5W30.
I didn't see much difference in the filter when I'd compared the two. Either way it'll still be interesting to see how it'll run for 3x5k intervals with R&P.
That's not a sales pitch. OCI's were trending upwards since the 90'd but that was before the USA felt it was able to regulate science into the next era. Now they demand better fuel economy so the only goal is to get a vehicle to the end of warranty. CAFE laws haven't exactly made lairs out of dealers but they haven't made them honest. My ultimate goal is to have my grenadier forever. Not 100k miles or even 200k miles, but forever. That means I maintain it right. And I'm not being hard headed here, If someone has something convinving I'll take it into consideration, but my simple math says change every 5k and never exceed 7500. The guy that designed the Nissan GTR's engine even said " If you want it to last forever then change it every 5k". I do UOAs and I like the simplicity of his math.
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With this VRP, I’ve decided to run this in my ‘24 F150. Will stick to a 5k or less OCI. I contemplated other oils, but it brings a lot to the table for me. And, I’ve already started running it in the ‘08 FJ with 145k
Interesting that Hyundai Service interviewed me regarding my driving habits , what roads I drove to work and back , how often I took long drives , etc. and then concluded I need to stick to severe duty OCI’s (3,750 miles) and not standard which is 7,500 miles . On one hand 5,000 miles splits that mileage down the middle while on the other hand I think 5,000 miles OCI’s are too long using standard off the shelf synthetic oils in mixed city / suburban driving .
Patman
Staff member
Do you honestly do 3750 mile intervals or do you round it up to 4000? (which would be way easier to track and would not hurt it in any way)
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This is grossly incorrect. With everybody and their brother offering free maintenance for the first X years, dealers make little off oil changes, if anything. And if you're a dealer in the right neighborhood, you'd be flooded with an overwhelming amount of new cars under lease, while the ones that get out of lease will never set foot or wheel in your dealership but will rather go the the local Jiffy Lube. The second a car gets out of lease and / or out of warranty, it's in a whole different dimension.
And this is valid for all dealerships nowadays, not only luxury car ones. The labor rate is mostly geographically dependent, not brand-dependent. A Kia dealership in Manhattan will charge a higher labor rate than a BMW dealership in say North Dakota. You'll only see an out of warranty car in a dealership for things that no one else can fix, reluctantly.
Extended oil change intervals are the biggest scam ever. As mentioned above, they are meant to match bureaucratic requirements and beancounters' dreams.
Before BMW switched to free oil changes for the first few years, their oil change intervals were 3000 miles. Or so. At least - back in Europe. When I lived back in France BMW France was known for a mandatory oil change if your car gets in the dealership for any procedure whatsoever. You'd get in the bay for any procedure at all - the oil was changed. They didn't even ask. The 10000 miles maintenance schedule said oil and filters - they were replaced, even if they had been replaced last week. If the 30000 miles maintenance schedule said "brake pads" - pads were replaced even if the current ones were at 80% life. And it wasn't a free thing, the client paid.
Then magically, overnight, once BMW started baking "free" maintenance in the price of the car, the same engines, the same car, suddenly manned up and decided they no longer need 3000 miles OCIs. It became condition-dependent, driving dependent, suddenly, magically, OCIs became Mr Fantastic - stretchable to infinity.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Our Hyundais' have a manual, pre-set Service Reminder / Mileage Counter. When close to the selected oil change mileage, the dash board alerts you to the upcoming mileage limit we set and it can be easily be cleared after the oil change is completed.
So 3750 can be easily tracked.
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