Valvoline Restore & Protect

šŸ˜‚. Been keeping my mouth shut for 15k miles. I suppose no matter what I say the goon squad won’t believe me when I report my findings.
are the results a UOA or oil consumption log?

I'm 1500 miles into my fourth run with the stuff and I still have oil consumption, which has fluctuated from 1qt every 500 miles to every 1000 miles or so. I don't understand it.

I also don't have a UOA but I think I should sample my third and fourth changes.
 
are the results a UOA or oil consumption log?

I'm 1500 miles into my fourth run with the stuff and I still have oil consumption, which has fluctuated from 1qt every 500 miles to every 1000 miles or so. I don't understand it.

I also don't have a UOA but I think I should sample my third and fourth changes.
Oil consumption log. Sounds like you may have more than stuck rings going on. Hyundai?
 
Oil consumption changes.
@Glenda W. I'd like you to expand upon that comment. Yes, consumption can change - I think we all (or at least many of us) can agree with that. However, taken with your comment of "I suppose no matter what I say the goon squad won’t believe me when I report my findings," this terse comment needs a bit more explanation.

I've not read all the posts between the goon squad comment and this last post of yours, so perhaps I missed something.
 
@Glenda W. I'd like you to expand upon that comment. Yes, consumption can change - I think we all (or at least many of us) can agree with that. However, taken with your comment of "I suppose no matter what I say the goon squad won’t believe me when I report my findings," this terse comment needs a bit more explanation.

I've not read all the posts between the goon squad comment and this last post of yours, so perhaps I missed something.
Mostly just a joke as I really don’t care if the squad(haters) believe me or not. I will be 100% honest with my results. I edited my post to ā€œoil consumption logā€ which is more accurate. I’ve owned the vehicle since new so the results will be detailed. I will give away one hint. 5k oci’s with top tier OTS oils didn’t keep my low tension oil rings clean enough.
 
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Oil consumption log. Sounds like you may have more than stuck rings going on. Hyundai?
A very strong probability. It's a Kia. 2019 Sportage AWD with the Theta II.

Got in June with 98k. The 2017 Sonata we had before (bought used in 2019 with 25k) started consuming about the same amount of oil around 60k miles, and nothing I tried helped until it was totalled in March with 93k miles.
 
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I know hes been throwing everything at it lately with oils and cleaners. Hopefully something works for him with his vehicle.
Me too. But honestly, I knew better what I was getting into with the Sportage than I did with the Sonata, having had the benefit of the knowledge and experience of dealing with the latter.

The way I saw it, it was going to burn oil and this is fine, I can deal with it, have for years, or I'd finally hit the Hyundai/Kia lottery and it wouldn't consume oil. At the end of day, if that's the most inconvenient thing I deal with while owning the Sportage, it's not that bad.

When treated well and maintained regularly, save for the oil consumption, I believe they are very good vehicles for the price. And so far, that has been the case for both vehicles. I just wish they held their value a little better.

Having said all that, I would not recommend anyone except a car enthusiast or anyone mechanically inclined and anal retentive about maintenance like most BITOGers purchase one, because it would be too easy to neglect checking the oil for a 1000 miles or so and then you have a seized engine to get replaced.
 
Will Rod Knock come back under a new name to rethink the failure it’s become? šŸ‘€

He had some good posts, and some bad ones just like the rest of us. But when you write stuff like that it just drives him away from the site for good which is not healthy.
 
I've been saying for five years now that the Theta 2 engines need 3k OCIs with top oils, not 5k.
Many members on other Hyundai and Kia Forums / Messageboards say the consumption usually begins as the engine crosses 3k of the OCI.

If members here read (past tense) that alert in the past five years and ignored my recommendation to change that oil at 3k, then they now created a much tougher situation to either stop, or reverse the consumption course.

This doesn't apply to everyone that owns a Theta 2. Oil choices, type of driving, type of engine (TGDI or GDI) ...... etc..... help decide the negative changes. But it sure does apply to a majority of owners.
 
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šŸ˜‚. Been keeping my mouth shut for 15k miles. I suppose no matter what I say the goon squad won’t believe me when I report my findings.
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I've been saying for five years now that the Theta 2 engines need 3k OCIs with top oils, not 5k.
Many members on other Hyundai and Kia Forums / Messageboards say the consumption usually begins as the engine crosses 3k of the OCI.

If members here read (past tense) that alert in the past five years and ignored my recommendation to change that oil at 3k, then they now created a much tougher situation to either stop, or reverse the consumption course.

This doesn't apply to everyone that owns a Theta 2. Oil choices, type of driving, type of engine (TGDI or GDI) ...... etc..... help decide the negative changes. But it sure does apply to a majority of owners.
Not in my experience. Oil consumption is constant from a fresh oil change to near the end of one. If anything, I've observed the opposite, over the last 15,000 miles since using the VRP, there have been periods of reduced consumption as the miles on an OCI rack up, but it's gradual, and caps at maybe 1qt in a 1000 miles.

And VRP more than meets the specified requirements in my owner's manual. I would also consider it a top oil (literally on the top shelf of every AZ and WM I've seen). What's a top oil as defined by you?
 
OK let me update my run on VRP 5W30. So far I have 4 +hours worth of runtime on it in the sweltering heat of the tropics.
I bought restore and protect because I have mild oil burning issue(150ml gone every 3000km) On periods of long sitting, a start up of every week or two, the car blows blue smoke from the tail pipe on the first start of the day. I strongly suspect that my turbo drain line is partially clogged up(due to API SG oils in the 80s and 90s from the original owner in japan.), so on cold starts, the oil pressure is high, so the semi clogged drains is not allowing the oil to drain back to the sump quickly enough, that some of that oil gets pushed past the turbo seals and into the exhaust.
Once warmed up there is no smoke. Previously I used shell helix ultra 5W40, KV40 is 77cst, KV100 13cst.
1st start on R & P 5w30, there was smoke but much less. Could be because the viscosity is lower (KV40 64 KV100 10.8) that less oil is being pushed through turbo seals. I drove for about 1 1/2 hours right after OC.
Car sat for a week and I started yesterday. This time, I did not notice any smoke on start up, which was surprising. I own this car for 7 years, and It always smoked on startup after 5 days + of sitting, so I was very surprised. Could it be it cleaned the turbo passages and free up piston rings that quick, or ...could it be simply that the oil has lower viscosity causing less oil and crankcase pressure ? Also I am quite happy with the sound of the engine, there was no clacking sound from the cams eventhough this oil is thinner than the shell helix ultra. Coolant temps were about 92C. So i drove it for 2 hours plus travelling about 100+ kms. I will keep observing and will check oil level throughout this OCI, but thus far I am pleased with VRP.
 
OK let me update my run on VRP 5W30. So far I have 4 +hours worth of runtime on it in the sweltering heat of the tropics.
I bought restore and protect because I have mild oil burning issue(150ml gone every 3000km) On periods of long sitting, a start up of every week or two, the car blows blue smoke from the tail pipe on the first start of the day. I strongly suspect that my turbo drain line is partially clogged up(due to API SG oils in the 80s and 90s from the original owner in japan.), so on cold starts, the oil pressure is high, so the semi clogged drains is not allowing the oil to drain back to the sump quickly enough, that some of that oil gets pushed past the turbo seals and into the exhaust.
Once warmed up there is no smoke. Previously I used shell helix ultra 5W40, KV40 is 77cst, KV100 13cst.
1st start on R & P 5w30, there was smoke but much less. Could be because the viscosity is lower (KV40 64 KV100 10.8) that less oil is being pushed through turbo seals. I drove for about 1 1/2 hours right after OC.
Car sat for a week and I started yesterday. This time, I did not notice any smoke on start up, which was surprising. I own this car for 7 years, and It always smoked on startup after 5 days + of sitting, so I was very surprised. Could it be it cleaned the turbo passages and free up piston rings that quick, or ...could it be simply that the oil has lower viscosity causing less oil and crankcase pressure ? Also I am quite happy with the sound of the engine, there was no clacking sound from the cams eventhough this oil is thinner than the shell helix ultra. Coolant temps were about 92C. So i drove it for 2 hours plus travelling about 100+ kms. I will keep observing and will check oil level throughout this OCI, but thus far I am pleased with VRP.
It could just be the valve stem seals, basically when they go bad it can allow oil to drain down onto the pistons and when you start it there's a cloud of smoke from the exhaust, when the engine burns away the excess oil it clears up and typically happens on vehicles that have been sitting for awhile. If you have an inspection camera you could try removing the plugs after it has been sitting for awhile to see if the pistons have oil on top of them.
 
Went by WM this afternoon and thought I'd give VL R&P a try in the truck (22 F150, 2.7 ecoboost, 40k mi).

The "service writer" tried to tell me he couldn't put it in my truck because it's not Dexos certified... and that Pennz Plat was "better" as it was featured as their "best" option. After some hemming and hawing, I have a sump full of R&P and an XG11955.
 
Went by WM this afternoon and thought I'd give VL R&P a try in the truck (22 F150, 2.7 ecoboost, 40k mi).

The "service writer" tried to tell me he couldn't put it in my truck because it's not Dexos certified... and that Pennz Plat was "better" as it was featured as their "best" option. After some hemming and hawing, I have a sump full of R&P and an XG11955.
Your Owners Manual actually states Dexos oils are required?...... or does it state recommended?
 
Your Owners Manual actually states Dexos oils are required?...... or does it state recommended?
No, my truck is a fine product of the Ford Motor Company, so no GM Dexos requirement/recommendation. Only mention in the manual is WSS-M2C961-A1, which is of course on the back of the jug (or 963-A1 for 'extremely cold climates').

CleanShot 2024-12-07 at 21.59.49@2x.webp


CleanShot 2024-12-07 at 22.06.31@2x.webp


While I commend the young gentleman at Walmart for making sure that vehicles that recommend Dexos oils get Dexos, I found it funny that he thought my Ford was a vehicle that called for Dexos oil.
 
While I commend the young gentleman at Walmart for making sure that vehicles that recommend Dexos oils get Dexos, I found it funny that he thought my Ford was a vehicle that called for Dexos oil.
WM guy obviously doesn't know anything about the dexos spec. Did you tell him only GM vehicles specify a dexos approved oil, and his eyes got real big? šŸ˜„
 
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