Valvoline Extended Protection Full Synthetic vs. Mobil 1 Extended Performance

Half a quart of fuel added to 5 quarts of oil isn't going to result in anything good in the long run. A dilution ratio that high is going to reduce the viscosity significantly and caused more wear, not only from the large reduction in the oil viscosity, but also from effects of fuel (a solvent) on the oil ad pack.

I could see 2 to 3% as "normal" and not have any real long term ramifications, but 10%+ fuel dilution in the sump most of the time certainly isn't going to be a good thing for engine wear in the long run.


A lot of this is short trips and some are extreme like a mom starting up the car to drive two blocks to the school bus stop. Many times idling waiting for the bus. Or, driving to the neighborhood mailbox cluster or driving a couple of blocks to the convenience store.
 
Isn't that where most oil is found during an oil change? 💀
It should if engine is not running!
i.e. Oil should find itself on the bottom of the oil pan if the engine is not running.

Because of this, I just dumped half a bottle of MoS2 into our CRV and the other half into the Odyssey

It (MoS2) should NOT find itself on the bottom of the oil pan if the engine is running! :unsure:

Anyway, was trying to say according to experts on this website, don't waste $ on aftermarket MoS2 additives! :)

I'm told oil and additive(s) molecules like each other the way they were formulated and were married at the factory. However, introducing a mistress (MoS2) no matter how pretty, to this "beautiful" marriage, may cause harm and separation. If and when separated, it may find itself alone in the doghouse or in this case on the bottom of the oil pan. :alien:
 
Here's another source for the fuel dilution problem that I found interesting:

Note: In the fuel dilution section of the video, shorter OCI is mentioned by the podcaster as THE solution.

The Fluid Life article, which btw was written by VP, Marketing lol, also says to shorten the OCI.

Conspicuously, neither article brings up increasing oil grade, seemingly a no brainer, to deal with fuel dilution.

Food for thought.
 
Note: In the fuel dilution section of the video, shorter OCI is mentioned by the podcaster as THE solution.

The Fluid Life article, which btw was written by VP, Marketing lol, also says to shorten the OCI.

Conspicuously, neither article brings up increasing oil grade, seemingly a no brainer, to deal with fuel dilution.

Food for thought.
And that shouldn't be surprising. Typically, these recommendations are made in the context of the OE spec lubricant, which suggesting a different viscosity would go against. The Mobil oil selector isn't going to tell you to run 5w-30 in your Honda 1.5L just because it may dilute like crazy, they tell you their offerings in the OE spec viscosity. Only exception there is some Euro marques where it is just a spec and no visc, then you get a range.
 
Speaking of Mobil1 0w20-EP...couldn’t find any in local Walmarts, decided to give Amazon a try (like others said) and had it delivered to my door in two days for $26 bucks. Checked the 5 quart container for something, anything, that would make me say...oh, ok, that’s why it was so quick and cheap. But it was all correct/right. Right weight, not high mileage (like I ordered), no leaks. Nothing.
 
Speaking of Mobil1 0w20-EP...couldn’t find any in local Walmarts, decided to give Amazon a try (like others said) and had it delivered to my door in two days for $26 bucks. Checked the 5 quart container for something, anything, that would make me say...oh, ok, that’s why it was so quick and cheap. But it was all correct/right. Right weight, not high mileage (like I ordered), no leaks. Nothing.
I have used M1 EP 0W20 in my old 2006 Focus work car and have only been able to find the High Mileage version of it around here easily. I switched to that the last oil change and I didn't notice a difference.
I've also found Wal-Mart website to be cheaper many times than the store if you get it delivered to your house.
 
And that shouldn't be surprising. Typically, these recommendations are made in the context of the OE spec lubricant, which suggesting a different viscosity would go against. The Mobil oil selector isn't going to tell you to run 5w-30 in your Honda 1.5L just because it may dilute like crazy, they tell you their offerings in the OE spec viscosity. Only exception there is some Euro marques where it is just a spec and no visc, then you get a range.
Exactly. This is the answer you get when you mix "politics" with physics rather than making a purely technical response.
 
They don't fit properly? Okay.
They are out-of-round and smaller. That's why piston slap goes away when the engine warms.

Pistons expand due to heat, so do the rings. That's why we have prescribed piston-to-wall clearance values and why piston ring end-gap is also a thing. These gaps are to allow both of these components to expand, which improves ring seal, and also reduces "rock" in the bore.

Inadequate piston-to-wall clearance can result in scuffing, while inadequate ring gap can also result in scuffing, as well as butting and damage to the ring lands, even breaking the piston.

When the piston and rings are still cold, and the clearances are larger, and fitment poorer, blowby is increased. This is exasperated by fuel wash-down due to startup enrichment. This is the basis for the claim that "most wear occurs at startup".
 
They are out-of-round and smaller. That's why piston slap goes away when the engine warms.

Pistons expand due to heat, so do the rings. That's why we have prescribed piston-to-wall clearance values and why piston ring end-gap is also a thing. These gaps are to allow both of these components to expand, which improves ring seal, and also reduces "rock" in the bore.

Inadequate piston-to-wall clearance can result in scuffing, while inadequate ring gap can also result in scuffing, as well as butting and damage to the ring lands, even breaking the piston.

When the piston and rings are still cold, and the clearances are larger, and fitment poorer, blowby is increased. This is exasperated by fuel wash-down due to startup enrichment. This is the basis for the claim that "most wear occurs at startup".
Good idea to use a higher grade oil then.
 
This discussion got pretty interesting, but yeah back to the original question because I was wondering the exact same thing. I have a Hyundai I really like, but one of the problems their engines can have is crank shaft bearings freezing up. Some of it is design, but being at the bottom of the engine it could be sludge build up.

Would you still agree that Mobil 1 is better than the Valvoline for sludge protection, especially if I'm doing a slightly longer OCI? (around 7500 miles, almost all freeway) The thing that makes me question this is that Valvoline now advertises that they use more additives and I wonder if they would help prevent/clean sludge build up better.

Side note, my last oil change I used Mobil 1 EP and so far really like it. Engine seems quieter, runs really smooth in the cold weather too. Used Valvoline in my older 6 cylinder car and always liked it. Wasn't too keen on Castrol though.

(In relation to comments about engineers, my manual recommends 5w-30 and 5w-20 for better mileage. Also recommends 20k oil change intervals! I can understand why some people would disagree with engineers at times. Also found out that the manual was not properly constructed to reflect both the 2.0 and 1.6 Turbo engines. Somewhere deep in Hyundai's website, I found out the aforementioned weights are only for the 2.0. The turbo actually requires 5w-40 and 5w-30 for better mileage. Trust but verify)
 
Speaking of Mobil1 0w20-EP...couldn’t find any in local Walmarts, decided to give Amazon a try (like others said) and had it delivered to my door in two days for $26 bucks. Checked the 5 quart container for something, anything, that would make me say...oh, ok, that’s why it was so quick and cheap. But it was all correct/right. Right weight, not high mileage (like I ordered), no leaks. Nothing.
I've ordered a handful of jugs of oil from Amazon and never had a problem with leakage either.
 
...... I have a Hyundai I really like, but one of the problems their engines can have is crank shaft bearings freezing up. Some of it is design, but being at the bottom of the engine it could be sludge build up.

Would you still agree that Mobil 1 is better than the Valvoline for sludge protection, especially if I'm doing a slightly longer OCI? (around 7500 miles).
I'm curious. If you have an engine that is prone to main bearings freezing up from sludge, why push an OCI out to 7,500 miles.... With ANY oil?
 
I've ordered a handful of jugs of oil from Amazon and never had a problem with leakage either.
Well, I did recently run into a different situation with my latest order from Amazon...the delivery date, which already was a little longer than I expected, was pushed out even further. I cancelled it and just drove the five minutes to Walmart and bought it there (they’ve been pretty stocked up with Mobil1 of late). But I hate going to Walmart, where I am it’s a total zoo.
 
This discussion got pretty interesting, but yeah back to the original question because I was wondering the exact same thing. I have a Hyundai I really like, but one of the problems their engines can have is crank shaft bearings freezing up. Some of it is design, but being at the bottom of the engine it could be sludge build up.

Would you still agree that Mobil 1 is better than the Valvoline for sludge protection, especially if I'm doing a slightly longer OCI? (around 7500 miles, almost all freeway) The thing that makes me question this is that Valvoline now advertises that they use more additives and I wonder if they would help prevent/clean sludge build up better.

Side note, my last oil change I used Mobil 1 EP and so far really like it. Engine seems quieter, runs really smooth in the cold weather too. Used Valvoline in my older 6 cylinder car and always liked it. Wasn't too keen on Castrol though.

(In relation to comments about engineers, my manual recommends 5w-30 and 5w-20 for better mileage. Also recommends 20k oil change intervals! I can understand why some people would disagree with engineers at times. Also found out that the manual was not properly constructed to reflect both the 2.0 and 1.6 Turbo engines. Somewhere deep in Hyundai's website, I found out the aforementioned weights are only for the 2.0. The turbo actually requires 5w-40 and 5w-30 for better mileage. Trust but verify)
If I remember correctly, and I probably don’t, isn’t the bearing problem a noise/excessive clearance/loss of oil pressure? Which I guess would lead to a bearing seizing up, but you’d have other problems before you even got to that point. And I’d think you’d have sludge problems at the top of the engine before the bottom? The crank is submerged in oil, it would take a lot for a crankshaft to form up with sludge. IMO. However with some serious neglect, or poor design, I could see the top of the engine gathering sludge.

With modern engines, I don’t really so much worry about sludge, I worry about valve coking and oil rings sticking in there lands (as they’re baked with carbon). And then comes that oil consumption.

Does Hyundai recommend 20,000 mile oil change intervals? I don’t think I know of a single manufacturer recommending something that long...although I think BMW was once at 15,000 miles (and I think they have since shortened that). Either way, I do like the Mobil1 products. I’ve been using the EP for my last three oil change intervals (all 10,000 miles) and it’s done excellent...no consumption, outstanding UOA. But then again - my engine is known for being easy on oil - I could probably run most anything in it and it would do ok. I think engine design is a HUGE part of the equation.
 
If I remember correctly, and I probably don’t, isn’t the bearing problem a noise/excessive clearance/loss of oil pressure? Which I guess would lead to a bearing seizing up, but you’d have other problems before you even got to that point. And I’d think you’d have sludge problems at the top of the engine before the bottom? The crank is submerged in oil, it would take a lot for a crankshaft to form up with sludge. IMO. However with some serious neglect, or poor design, I could see the top of the engine gathering sludge.

With modern engines, I don’t really so much worry about sludge, I worry about valve coking and oil rings sticking in there lands (as they’re baked with carbon). And then comes that oil consumption.

Does Hyundai recommend 20,000 mile oil change intervals? I don’t think I know of a single manufacturer recommending something that long...although I think BMW was once at 15,000 miles (and I think they have since shortened that). Either way, I do like the Mobil1 products. I’ve been using the EP for my last three oil change intervals (all 10,000 miles) and it’s done excellent...no consumption, outstanding UOA. But then again - my engine is known for being easy on oil - I could probably run most anything in it and it would do ok. I think engine design is a HUGE part of the equation.
I think you're right. It was something like that with the bearings and my 2014 VT doesn't seem to be one of the problem cars. What you described about the crank bearings makes me feel a lot better.

You think Mobil 1 or Valvoline will have any better effect on that valve coking? At this point it sounds like it's a 6 to one, half a dozen to the other kind of preference. All high quality oils seem to pretty close anymore.
 
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