Vacuum Brake Bleeder Recommendation

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Jul 5, 2020
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407
Location
Sioux City
Any recommendations for Vacuum Brake Bleeders? Specifically using it on my motorcycle brakes, but of course having it for automotive would be great too. I have a Matco (Mightyvac) hand pump style, but I don't know if that'll work the best for this application? My issue on my Victory is that the front brake lever is a bit soft. I have bled the brakes a few times with the use of speed bleeders (which I'll have to remove to vacuum bleed I believe), but it never seems to have a solid lever feel. After a couple pulls of the lever it's nice and solid. But after a few miles it feels soft again. The manual does recommend a vacuum bleeder for bikes with ABS, so I figure I should add that to my tool collection.

EDIT: Not trying to break the bank on this tool either. Harbor Freight has a couple that seem promising if anyone has any experience with them?
 
Mini-Vac is what I used. But I loaned it out so many times that I now need another.
The cheap Pittsburgh pump from Harbor Freight~$20) is rubbish. Worked once. Only warrantied for 90 days as is most of their non hand tool are. When I went to use it on day 93, it didn’t work any longer. Get a good one!
 
Any recommendations for Vacuum Brake Bleeders? Specifically using it on my motorcycle brakes, but of course having it for automotive would be great too. I have a Matco (Mightyvac) hand pump style, but I don't know if that'll work the best for this application? My issue on my Victory is that the front brake lever is a bit soft. I have bled the brakes a few times with the use of speed bleeders (which I'll have to remove to vacuum bleed I believe), but it never seems to have a solid lever feel. After a couple pulls of the lever it's nice and solid. But after a few miles it feels soft again. The manual does recommend a vacuum bleeder for bikes with ABS, so I figure I should add that to my tool collection.

EDIT: Not trying to break the bank on this tool either. Harbor Freight has a couple that seem promising if anyone has any experience with them?
I have owned the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh vacuum bleeder that requires the use of a compressor for ~10 years and it works well for automotive brakes. However, I would be reluctant to use it on a motorcycle brake (or any clutch) system because it evacuates the fluid so rapidly that you'll likely introduce air through a quickly emptied fluid reservoir.

When dealing with a soft pedal/lever or difficult to purge brake systems, I have had 100% success with the Phoenix Systems V5 reverse bleeder device. While some critics decry the use of reverse bleeding due to the potential of back-feeding dirty fluid into the master cylinder, you can easily avoid this concern by performing a conventional flush first, then finishing up with a reverse flush once the system is full of new brake fluid.
 
I have owned the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh vacuum bleeder that requires the use of a compressor for ~10 years and it works well for automotive brakes. However, I would be reluctant to use it on a motorcycle brake (or any clutch) system because it evacuates the fluid so rapidly that you'll likely introduce air through a quickly emptied fluid reservoir.

When dealing with a soft pedal/lever or difficult to purge brake systems, I have had 100% success with the Phoenix Systems V5 reverse bleeder device. While some critics decry the use of reverse bleeding due to the potential of back-feeding dirty fluid into the master cylinder, you can easily avoid this concern by performing a conventional flush first, then finishing up with a reverse flush once the system is full of new brake fluid.
I've read about reverse bleeding, I'm not opposed to it and it makes a lot of sense. I'm not too worried about back feed since last spring I bled it was about 20oz and this season I tried again with about 10-12 oz with the same result. It's really clean coming out.

It makes sense that a vacuum one would suck it dry pretty quick. Wouldn't regulating input pressure slow it down or would be less effective that way?

Last time I've done any pressure/vacuum bleeding was with a BG brake fluid flush machine back when I was a Toyota tech. That's a totally different machine!!!
 
I've read about reverse bleeding, I'm not opposed to it and it makes a lot of sense. I'm not too worried about back feed since last spring I bled it was about 20oz and this season I tried again with about 10-12 oz with the same result. It's really clean coming out.

It makes sense that a vacuum one would suck it dry pretty quick. Wouldn't regulating input pressure slow it down or would be less effective that way?
You can regulate the suction pressure by: (a) reducing the pressure setting on the compressors's regulator and (b) partially squeezing the trigger handle on the unit itself. If you go this route, I recommend applying silicone grease at the base of the bleeder nipple or you will get a stream of micro-air bubbles migrating in through the threads...falsely making it appear as if you are continuously purging air from the caliper. I seldom use the Pittsburgh vacuum bleeder these days since the rubber nipple connector has hardened from age and must be manually held in place.
 
I used to use a Miti-Vac vacuum pump, but more recently, switched to pressure bleed, and it's worlds better. I'm not sure how the Victory brake system is laid out, but if you have clear access to the master cylinder, and can fabricate yourself a cap with a nipple for the pressure feed, I'd be going for a Motive pump instead of vacuum.
 
I used to use a Miti-Vac vacuum pump, but more recently, switched to pressure bleed, and it's worlds better. I'm not sure how the Victory brake system is laid out, but if you have clear access to the master cylinder, and can fabricate yourself a cap with a nipple for the pressure feed, I'd be going for a Motive pump instead of vacuum.
I think a pressure bleeder would be somewhat difficult with my master cylinder. I do have another master cylinder and cover from a box of random parts I bought a while back. But I’m not sure how well it will work?

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