Vacuum Brake Bleeder Recommendation

[TacoFergie]

Any recommendations for Vacuum Brake Bleeders? Specifically using it on my motorcycle brakes, but of course having it for automotive would be great too. I have a Matco (Mightyvac) hand pump style, but I don't know if that'll work the best for this application? My issue on my Victory is that the front brake lever is a bit soft. I have bled the brakes a few times with the use of speed bleeders (which I'll have to remove to vacuum bleed I believe), but it never seems to have a solid lever feel. After a couple pulls of the lever it's nice and solid. But after a few miles it feels soft again. The manual does recommend a vacuum bleeder for bikes with ABS, so I figure I should add that to my tool collection.

EDIT: Not trying to break the bank on this tool either. Harbor Freight has a couple that seem promising if anyone has any experience with them?

 

[charbaby]

Mini-Vac is what I used. But I loaned it out so many times that I now need another.
The cheap Pittsburgh pump from Harbor Freight~$20) is rubbish. Worked once. Only warrantied for 90 days as is most of their non hand tool are. When I went to use it on day 93, it didn’t work any longer. Get a good one!

 

[Nukeman7]

Any recommendations for Vacuum Brake Bleeders? Specifically using it on my motorcycle brakes, but of course having it for automotive would be great too. I have a Matco (Mightyvac) hand pump style, but I don't know if that'll work the best for this application? My issue on my Victory is that the front brake lever is a bit soft. I have bled the brakes a few times with the use of speed bleeders (which I'll have to remove to vacuum bleed I believe), but it never seems to have a solid lever feel. After a couple pulls of the lever it's nice and solid. But after a few miles it feels soft again. The manual does recommend a vacuum bleeder for bikes with ABS, so I figure I should add that to my tool collection.

EDIT: Not trying to break the bank on this tool either. Harbor Freight has a couple that seem promising if anyone has any experience with them?

I have owned the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh vacuum bleeder that requires the use of a compressor for ~10 years and it works well for automotive brakes. However, I would be reluctant to use it on a motorcycle brake (or any clutch) system because it evacuates the fluid so rapidly that you'll likely introduce air through a quickly emptied fluid reservoir.

When dealing with a soft pedal/lever or difficult to purge brake systems, I have had 100% success with the Phoenix Systems V5 reverse bleeder device. While some critics decry the use of reverse bleeding due to the potential of back-feeding dirty fluid into the master cylinder, you can easily avoid this concern by performing a conventional flush first, then finishing up with a reverse flush once the system is full of new brake fluid.

 

[TacoFergie]

I have owned the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh vacuum bleeder that requires the use of a compressor for ~10 years and it works well for automotive brakes. However, I would be reluctant to use it on a motorcycle brake (or any clutch) system because it evacuates the fluid so rapidly that you'll likely introduce air through a quickly emptied fluid reservoir.

When dealing with a soft pedal/lever or difficult to purge brake systems, I have had 100% success with the Phoenix Systems V5 reverse bleeder device. While some critics decry the use of reverse bleeding due to the potential of back-feeding dirty fluid into the master cylinder, you can easily avoid this concern by performing a conventional flush first, then finishing up with a reverse flush once the system is full of new brake fluid.

I've read about reverse bleeding, I'm not opposed to it and it makes a lot of sense. I'm not too worried about back feed since last spring I bled it was about 20oz and this season I tried again with about 10-12 oz with the same result. It's really clean coming out.

It makes sense that a vacuum one would suck it dry pretty quick. Wouldn't regulating input pressure slow it down or would be less effective that way?

Last time I've done any pressure/vacuum bleeding was with a BG brake fluid flush machine back when I was a Toyota tech. That's a totally different machine!!!

 

[Nukeman7]

I've read about reverse bleeding, I'm not opposed to it and it makes a lot of sense. I'm not too worried about back feed since last spring I bled it was about 20oz and this season I tried again with about 10-12 oz with the same result. It's really clean coming out.

It makes sense that a vacuum one would suck it dry pretty quick. Wouldn't regulating input pressure slow it down or would be less effective that way?

You can regulate the suction pressure by: (a) reducing the pressure setting on the compressors's regulator and (b) partially squeezing the trigger handle on the unit itself. If you go this route, I recommend applying silicone grease at the base of the bleeder nipple or you will get a stream of micro-air bubbles migrating in through the threads...falsely making it appear as if you are continuously purging air from the caliper. I seldom use the Pittsburgh vacuum bleeder these days since the rubber nipple connector has hardened from age and must be manually held in place.

 

[2dogs]

Yes, The cheap harbor freight bleeder is garbage. Leaked the first time used. I think I threw it out.

 

[Nessism1]

I used to use a Miti-Vac vacuum pump, but more recently, switched to pressure bleed, and it's worlds better. I'm not sure how the Victory brake system is laid out, but if you have clear access to the master cylinder, and can fabricate yourself a cap with a nipple for the pressure feed, I'd be going for a Motive pump instead of vacuum.

 

[TacoFergie]

I used to use a Miti-Vac vacuum pump, but more recently, switched to pressure bleed, and it's worlds better. I'm not sure how the Victory brake system is laid out, but if you have clear access to the master cylinder, and can fabricate yourself a cap with a nipple for the pressure feed, I'd be going for a Motive pump instead of vacuum.

I think a pressure bleeder would be somewhat difficult with my master cylinder. I do have another master cylinder and cover from a box of random parts I bought a while back. But I’m not sure how well it will work?

 

[Nessism1]

I think a pressure bleeder would be somewhat difficult with my master cylinder. I do have another master cylinder and cover from a box of random parts I bought a while back. But I’m not sure how well it will work?

Drill and tap a cover for a barb fitting? Maybe not worth it if the cover has a lot of value, though.

 

[JHZR2]

I think a pressure bleeder would be somewhat difficult with my master cylinder. I do have another master cylinder and cover from a box of random parts I bought a while back. But I’m not sure how well it will work?

View attachment 342904

I haven’t done the job yet but on my mountain bikes with this kind of setup, I understand you need to bleed it both ways to get the air out. So you need a hopper of fluid on the reservoir.

You sure there isn’t a kit to do it? Shimanom and others have kits for bicycles.

 

[Dborch41]

I got this quite a few years ago and it works quite well. I have a 20 gallon air compressor which is just barely enough to work the thing, but I do have to wait a few times for the tank to pump back up if I'm doing the entire car. It also helps to put a few wraps of teflon tape around the bleeder screw threads to prevent air leaks from around the fitting.

 

[willbur]

You can regulate the suction pressure by: (a) reducing the pressure setting on the compressors's regulator and (b) partially squeezing the trigger handle on the unit itself. If you go this route, I recommend applying silicone grease at the base of the bleeder nipple or you will get a stream of micro-air bubbles migrating in through the threads...falsely making it appear as if you are continuously purging air from the caliper. I seldom use the Pittsburgh vacuum bleeder these days since the rubber nipple connector has hardened from age and must be manually held in place.

I'm concerned about pulling in air around the bleeder valve. Get bubbles all day? This method work well for you?

 

[Nukeman7]

I'm concerned about pulling in air around the bleeder valve. Get bubbles all day? This method work well for you?

You will get a continuous stream of tiny air bubbles leaking in through the bleeder valve threads unless you apply the grease around the base of the nipple. Some mechanics remove the bleeder valve and apply Teflon tape, but I find the grease method to be more effective. The vacuum bleeder is most useful if a lot of air has been introduced in the system such as changing a caliper or master cylinder.

I also have a Motive positive pressure bleeder, but that doesn't seem to work well on many of the vehicles I service.

 

[willbur]

You will get a continuous stream of tiny air bubbles leaking in through the bleeder valve threads unless you apply the grease around the base of the nipple. Some mechanics remove the bleeder valve and apply Teflon tape, but I find the grease method to be more effective. The vacuum bleeder is most useful if a lot of air has been introduced in the system such as changing a caliper or master cylinder.

I also have a Motive positive pressure bleeder, but that doesn't seem to work well on many of the vehicles I service.

thanks- I have considered tape like you mentioned but then I worry a piece will tear off and block abs pump, I think grease is the better way (use silicone dielectric or Sil-Glide?).

 

[SC Maintenance]

Mini-Vac is what I used. But I loaned it out so many times that I now need another.

Are you refering to the mity-vac one? I have a cheap one from Amazon that has worked but I know it won't forever.

 

[Nukeman7]

thanks- I have considered tape like you mentioned but then I worry a piece will tear off and block abs pump, I think grease is the better way (use silicone dielectric or Sil-Glide?).

I currently use silicone grease, but have used Sil-Glyde and even lithium grease in the past. I believe the viscosity of any grease is too dense to be drawn past the threads into the caliper. After closing the bleeder valve, I remove the grease with a shop towel and brake cleaner.

 

[zzyzzx]

You need a MityVac type of thing to test vacuum devices anyway. So get one, even the Harbor Freight version:
https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html

But if I were to get another tool for brake bleeding it would be a pressure type.

 

[TacoFergie]

Are you refering to the mity-vac one? I have a cheap one from Amazon that has worked but I know it won't forever.

View attachment 343318

Yes, very similar to that but with an all metal body.

Drill and tap a cover for a barb fitting? Maybe not worth it if the cover has a lot of value, though.

They aren't very valuable and I wouldn't be opposed to doing that. I'm going to give reverse bleeding a try, if that doesn't work then I suppose traditional pressure bleeding.

 

[charbaby]

Are you refering to the mity-vac one? I have a cheap one from Amazon that has worked but I know it won't forever.

View attachment 343318

Yes, my mistake. Thank for catching that!
I think my “spell check” changed it.

 

[Nessism1]

Take this for what it's worth, but a soft hand lever may be a function of the masters plunger diameter for that particular bike. Some manufacturers use small diameter masters, which give low hand effort to brake, but the lever feel is spongy. Another thing that can lead to a spongy feel is if the caliper pistons are parking too far away from the disc. Pumping up the master and tying the lever to the bars for a day sometimes helps, by allowing the piston to creep closer. This will be particularly problematic is there is corrosion in the system, and the pistons don't move freely.