Brake bleeder - cfm ?

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I'm considering getting one of those brake bleeders like Harbor Freight and other places sell - the ones that connect to an air compressor to create a vacuum to draw fluid out. I've read different stories about the compressor CFM that's required although most of the manufacturers/sellers mention a min CFM but people who use them indicate they need a certain amount. I have a simple 10-gallon, 125-150 psi compressor and if it doesn't have enough CFM, what will these bleeders do ? Not work at all ? Not work "properly" ? Work slower ?

I do have access to a larger, likely capable compressor at work and could use that if necessary but using the one I have at home is obviously preferable.
 
Your 10 gallon compressor will work fine-- if you're using the thing non-stop, one might prefer an oil-lubricated compressor which probably has a better duty cycle than the oil-less variety.

The worst thing that will happen without enough CFM is the air pressure will drop low enough that it will not pull a decent vacuum, at which point you'll have to take a break till the tank refills. I doubt this will be an issue on anything but the smallest pancake compressors, or the cheap oil-free ones.
 
Get a syringe.

But then you'll have to find something else to worry about (and optionally, spend your money on). .
 
Those things do use a lot of air. I have one of those entry level 240 volt 60 gallon compressors and it runs about 2/3 the time that i run the bleeder. Its not a harbor freight one but something that like 80 on amazon. Works good but it guzzles air.
 
I was pretty turned off on them due to air being sucked thru the threads of the bleed screw. Its just an OCD thing for me, I'm happy with the make your own one man bleeder bottle, and its cheap!

As I recall, the kits did come with a grease to put on the threads of the bleeders, but that meant you had to remove the bleed screws, apply grease or whatever it is, to stop the threads from leaking air under vacuum. I had the hand vacuum type.
 
Anything that uses a venturi is going to have high CFM demands those cheap A/C vacuum pumps that plug into the air hose are another one. They do work (not especially well) but the air required is enormous.
 
Thanks to everyone who responded in reference to the compressor. Sounds like it will work. Maybe not 100% optimally but I'm not in a hurry. I can also use a larger compressor if absolutely necessary.
 
If time is no object, use a gravity bleed.
grin2.gif
 
I love my pneumatic OTC vacuum brake bleeder. I have bled many completely dry brake systems by myself in 30 minutes. No helper, no bleeding the master needed. You need to stop every 30-40 seconds empty out the bleeder bottle, and refill the master anyway, so a small compressor should work fine. As far as air getting sucked around the bleeder screw, that is after the fact non-issue. It is just about moving fluid through the lines quickly, and all by yourself.
 
Originally Posted by andyd
If time is no object, use a gravity bleed.
grin2.gif



C'mon, didn't you see the italics. You're being gratuitously irritating.

He wants to spend the money.
He (thinks he) needs to spend the money.
Let him spend the money.

Pointless Gadgets R US is, after all The American Way.
 
That Harbor Freight pointless gadget successfully fluid exchanged/bled a 10 bleeder screw 240 Volvo easily. Lots of people have trouble bleeding that type of braking system.
 
Originally Posted by Ducked
C'mon, didn't you see the italics. You're being gratuitously irritating.

He wants to spend the money.
He (thinks he) needs to spend the money.
Let him spend the money.

Pointless Gadgets R US is, after all The American Way.

Please refer to my original post/question. In summary, I asked about the compressor requirements for a style of brake bleeder. Nothing more. I didn't ask if this tool was any good (some will say it is, some will say it isn't - then what ?). I haven't bought anything either and more importantly, I really don't buy things that I don't have a use for. Should I not do a fluid exchange ? Should I pay to have it done ? The cost to have a shop do it is 3-4x the cost of this bleeder so I save some money the first time I use it.
 
I use it with a slightly larger 19 gallon hot dog compressor.

Understand the limitations and work with it. I do a few open/closes of the bleeder, then let the compressor charge back up. It does slow down the job at hand, but does the job when you are the only one around to do it.
 
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by Ducked
C'mon, didn't you see the italics. You're being gratuitously irritating.

He wants to spend the money.
He (thinks he) needs to spend the money.
Let him spend the money.

Pointless Gadgets R US is, after all The American Way.

Please refer to my original post/question. In summary, I asked about the compressor requirements for a style of brake bleeder. Nothing more. I didn't ask if this tool was any good (some will say it is, some will say it isn't - then what ?). I haven't bought anything either and more importantly, I really don't buy things that I don't have a use for. Should I not do a fluid exchange ? Should I pay to have it done ? The cost to have a shop do it is 3-4x the cost of this bleeder so I save some money the first time I use it.



Your use of italics implied a certain disinterest in/irritation with being told about alternatives.

Your post above further implies the only alternative is getting it done commercially. That is clearly not usually the case, unless you have no interest in alternatives. Then it is. Circular/self-justifying logic.

The cost of the alternative I suggested is about 1 USD, so it'd be fairly painless to find out it didnt work on your system.

I dunno if it'd work on a Volvo 12-nipple-whatever, for example, never having had anything Swedish with any number of nipples.

Its probably too late for me to find out now..
 
Originally Posted by Ducked
Your use of italics implied a certain disinterest in/irritation with being told about alternatives.

If I was looking for alternatives, I would have created a thread with a title and content along the lines of "What brake bleeder should I purchase?". Then guess what ? People would suggest the HF bleeder, others would suggest a homemade 'tool', some would say to get the trigger-gun-vacuum type (MityVac), then there'd be suggestions for a Motive-type bleeder, and finally the two-person-pump-the-brake-pedal option. Where does that get me or anyone else who has the same question ?
 
After attempted brake bleeding options for over 46 years, my OTC pneumatic brake bleeder has solved all of my brake bleeding issues into a simple one-man procedure in very ittle time, with a lot less wasted brake fluid. It is so simple, and effective, that I wish I would have known sooner. Just pull the trigger and watch it work. I've been doing it that way for 16 years now with no problems.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by Ducked
Your use of italics implied a certain disinterest in/irritation with being told about alternatives.

If I was looking for alternatives, I would have created a thread with a title and content along the lines of "What brake bleeder should I purchase?". Then guess what ? People would suggest the HF bleeder, others would suggest a homemade 'tool', some would say to get the trigger-gun-vacuum type (MityVac), then there'd be suggestions for a Motive-type bleeder, and finally the two-person-pump-the-brake-pedal option. Where does that get me or anyone else who has the same question ?


It gets you alternatives.

Then you get to use your judgement and choose.

But you didn't list the syringe, which tends not to get mentioned much, so maybe you weren't aware of it.

Now you are, interested or no.
 
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