Upstate NY Winter (Ithaca area), Synth 10W-40?

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I may get a second vehicle.
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Probe is in Ohio. For now, its not my vehicle. (For now, i have NO Vehicle.)

Now, having lived up here in NY State before, North of Binghamton, I was realizing that it will be colder up here than in the Mid-west. (Ever been Snowed in by Snow Drifts? Oh yeah, Serious Winter is Back!)

So, if i were to get a vehicle, i do wonder if Fully Synthetic 10W-40 M1 HM is about the "Thickest" i could go. Im sure Full Synthetic would be a Must, and HM Formula would keep Leaks out of whatever i had it in (I believe Full Synthetic to cause OR EXPOSE PRE-EXISTING
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Leaks, which is why i had been asking about Castrol Syntec and "Group III" before i was set straight. The belief was, if its not really Synthetic, i would be OK. Jury is still out, and the Oil debate for my other vehicle may just get M1 HM and be done with it, maybe with MMO maybe with Kreen and thats it..
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).

This is, of course, unless i just get an Acura Integra and get some MaxLife 5W-30 and dont need to think about that.

The Probe is not coming to Ohio. Thats my little Project Car, just so i can mess around with it with semi-professional Help once i get back to it.

Thoughts on Oil for a Deep winter, where it may very well get to -10 Degrees Fahrenheit?
 
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I blew the starter in my old mazda 323 in Oneonta during a mere -7'F night. Dino 10w40.

If I were you I'd use that rotella 5w40 if you feel you need something thick, or GC.
 
Take your pick of the available syn oils at Wal-Mart. My family ran many cars on dino oil in the Elmira-Corning area for years. When it was 0*F out, they took a couple seconds to start but they started. They sounded like automotive death, but the cars routinely made it to 120k+ miles with zero lubrication-related failures.

Get 5w-30 or even 0w-30 syn, and an up-rated battery. That'll see you through the worst of winter with no problems.

Ithaca having 2 colleges, you shouldn't have problems getting a cheap second vehicle.
 
Since you have no vehicle, why do you ask?

Personally, the colder it gets the thinner I want to go. Sure some of the Pour points of synthetic 5w40's are around -40 degrees F. But they will still be thicker than a 0w30 or a 0w20 at that same temp.

Easier starting, quicker lubricating, less time in bypass, and all this even if your ride is parked in a snow drift for a week.

Perhaps some Canadians will stop by and give us a piece of their mind on cold weather oils.

BTW, its funny to add that it is 106 degrees F outside today and we are talking about cold weather.
 
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You want Synthetic and you feel you need "thick" oil, try Mobil 1 0W40. It will work well in the cold and according to many here it is a good oil. If it were my car I'd be thinking thin in the winter, like a 0W20 or 0W30 depending on what the mfg recommends.
 
See, i was thinking of getting a Honda or something. 5W-30 anywhere, forever.

Now, if i were to get an SUV like an Isuzu Rodeo, id want a 10W-30 perhaps?

We get those Snow drifts. I remember Freeville, which is right next store, very well.
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In a winter climate I wouldn`t use anything higher than a 5W oil. You`re just asking for trouble. Likewise thinner is better than heavier. Relevant numbers to consider in this context, aside from the above, are the oil`s pour point and cold crank.

-Spyder
 
I live outside of Big Rapids, MI which many times has the coldest temps in the state. Twice I have seen -36F on a mercury thermometer. Twice I had a 91 Chev Blazer with a 4.3L Vortec V6 start outside in the -36F conditions with 5W-30 M1. Now I run Amsoil 0W-20 in a 07 Jeep Liberty and 0W-30 in a 01 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. Last winter with a morning at -27F, the Sport Trac, 5 year old battery and a starter that seems to be turning slower as it ages and all, the Ford fired right up. Run M1 5W-30 in a Yardman tractor used for plowing and in a Poulan snowblower. Big reason why I run synthetic oil is the cold temps we have.
 
By the way, the 0W, 5W, 10W etc numbers simply indicated the cold weather rating the oil is rated for. The lower the number, the lower the temperature range its designed for. This number has absolutely nothing to do with the oil`s viscosity, i.e., how thin or thick it is.

This is a common misconception, and a lot of people buy 10W oils over 5W or 0W because they wrongly believe the 10W indicates a thicker oil.

-Spyder
 
I remember many trips to my cousin's house in the Adirondacks, where -25*F and -30*F happened quite often. You don't want thick oil. I would stick with either a 0W-xx or a 5W-xx, MMO is a big help too when it gets that cold.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim_Beverlin
I live outside of Big Rapids, MI which many times has the coldest temps in the state. Twice I have seen -36F on a mercury thermometer. Twice I had a 91 Chev Blazer with a 4.3L Vortec V6 start outside in the -36F conditions with 5W-30 M1. Now I run Amsoil 0W-20 in a 07 Jeep Liberty and 0W-30 in a 01 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. Last winter with a morning at -27F, the Sport Trac, 5 year old battery and a starter that seems to be turning slower as it ages and all, the Ford fired right up. Run M1 5W-30 in a Yardman tractor used for plowing and in a Poulan snowblower. Big reason why I run synthetic oil is the cold temps we have.


Hmmm. You have Quite the Battery!

How did that 5W-30 hold up? Id use good old MaxLife if i had to, and IF it was gonna get that cold. -10 is a Surety, idk about colder. 50% chance we see -20.

Ive never heard the need to go thinner than 5W-30 way up here in NY . And yes, it can get pretty frosty.
 
If you`re going to see temps as low as -20 you want a 5W oil. You don`t have to go with a 0W (though there`s nothing wrong with going that way). Its colder where I live than that and 5W has always served me well. But 10W wouldn`t be a good choice.
 
Ditto on avoiding 10w-anything. I had some 10w-30 Synpower in my 1999 Buick a few years ago. It took longer to fire up than with the 5w-30 dino juice it replaced.

Now I use 5w-30 synthetic in the winter. The last of my Maxlife 10w-30 is currently being used for summer oil. Seeing how it reacts on 50*F mornings, ie not well, it's coming out before the temperatures start swinging into the 30's at night.
 
It seems your question about oil has been answered, but what about the car!? If the car is stuck in a snow drift and can't get out, what does it matter what oil's in there.

If you're looking for something reliable, I'd hunt down a late 90's Subaru with the EJ22. Not know for their gas mileage, but they're [censored] near indestructible and will get you through where an integra might leave you stranded. I'd run M1 0W-40 or Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 if you do decide on a Subie.
 
On one occassion the battery was almost new. The other time it was 3 years old. I also had a 92 Taurus. That also ran on 5W-30 M1. When it was over -30F the starter on the 3.0L Vulcan would really spin considering the cold. It would not even remotely want to fire. Temp would drop in the high minus 20s and it would fire right up. I had no issues with 5W-30 M1. Always ran it 12 - 15K miles and I put almost a combination of 500K trouble free engine miles on three (3) Chev Blazers all with the 4.3L Vortec V6. Excellent motor. Rest of the vehicle..............lousy. All 3 rusted horribly. Drove me back to Ford and Jeep.
 
The difference between say M1 10w40 HM and 5w40 TDT at the lows you will see in Ithaca is negligible. Still people will always say go with 5w40, it can be confusing. Any synthetic 10w40 should be fine but if you are worried M1 0w40 is a great winter oil.
 
M1 5w30...good both winter and summer.
___________________________________
2003 Ford Focus SE (2.3L) / 87K
M1 5w20EP / M1 EP Filter / OCI: 1 year or 10K +/-
 
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Originally Posted By: lipadj46
The difference between say M1 10w40 HM and 5w40 TDT at the lows you will see in Ithaca is negligible. Still people will always say go with 5w40, it can be confusing. Any synthetic 10w40 should be fine but if you are worried M1 0w40 is a great winter oil.


lipad: Seeking clarification.. "5W-40 TDT?" What on earth is TDT?

And yeah, covering my bases IF i get a Vehicle for up here. SUV is tempting, or id just get a Honda/Acura. I cant call it!
 
Honda with snow tires. It'll get you where you need to go, even up ice-covered hills. SUV's offer a false sense of security, especially in the snow.

Seriously, snow tires are your new best friends. Get 4 good ones, like Winterforce or Blizzak snows. Then you'll be able to claw through stuff that leaves most SUV's with all-seasons digging 4 holes.

Plus, the Honda will gladly run 5w-20 syn from anywhere.
 
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