Higher octane won’t help fuel dilution if that’s what you’re wondering about.Ew
Definitely gonna have to get mine analyzed when I do the Spring oil change in my FA20DIT. I do run 93 octane so I wonder if that's a help.
Higher octane won’t help fuel dilution if that’s what you’re wondering about.Ew
Definitely gonna have to get mine analyzed when I do the Spring oil change in my FA20DIT. I do run 93 octane so I wonder if that's a help.
Dang, I thought my Honda with 4% dilution in 4500 miles was bad. 56ppm copper would have my attention as well as the TBN in the basement at only 3k miles. The Fe at 9ppm in such a short interval isn't that great, but it's certainly the least alarming part of the report.It's certainly good for more power but I don't know that they did anything to address the concerns I'd have as far as oil selection. PCV is still dead simple, and I think the injectors are still junk.
Just got this back.. fairly interesting but expected.
oil was in use from 12-17-24 to 4-12-25 (4 months)
mileage from 11111 to 14273 (3161mi)
Sump capacity 5qt.
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- Rand
- Replies: 41
- Forum: Used Oil Analysis - Gasoline
>5% fuel in ~3K is not much better. Not sure where the Pennzoil Platinum hype started, but yes, extended OCIs are not where I'd try to save money on a Subaru.
The only "cure" is high RPM and higher temperature.Higher octane won’t help fuel dilution if that’s what you’re wondering about.
All the turbo FA24s have an oversized oil cooler, that’s likely where the Cu is coming from as long as it’s not paired with lead or tin.Dang, I thought my Honda with 4% dilution in 4500 miles was bad. 56ppm copper would have my attention as well as the TBN in the basement at only 3k miles. The Fe at 9ppm in such a short interval isn't that great, but it's certainly the least alarming part of the report.
I'm convinced a serial diluter needs some much thicker oil to combat the viscosity loss.
My next OCI, the 15w-40 in my Honda will be getting blended with some 20w-50 (also HPL PCMO; no additive clash).
If this was my car and engine, 0w-40 FS is the *thinnest* oil I would consider...
This. HPL supercar is quite extreme for the 2.5 N/A. WRX/STI? Sure! When I asked Dave about my 2014 outback with the same N/A engine he recommended the vanilla PCMO, which, according to my used oil analysis is doing great and better yet, the price is nice! So you can still get a top shelf oil, extend the intervals safely, and save some bucks over the supercar.Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W40 since it's on every WM shelf. If you've turned up the wick on your Rex there's no point in not going to a 40 grade, and EJs have always lived famously on 40 grade.
If you want to spend on HPL, feel free, but SuperCar in an NA EJ may be the zenith of irony, and that's coming from a guy who's owned 5 of them...![]()
Because the oil is capable of it, even under tigeo’s lead foot at the track! It’s a very tough thing for people here to acknowledge what a beast of a lubricant HPL’s offerings are, even with evidence all over the used oil analysis section.Suppose I'm sold that I want to do HPL and am trying to figure out good intervals. Dave and I did not discuss intervals.
I believe I see your point, see how that could look bad. To be honest any time I get on this forum it takes any certainty I had/have about what I have learned from my cars over the years, and influences me to want to try new things. Hence ESP.
edited original thread start to reflect.
I would just do something in the 3-4k range if I was staying with over the counter oil like I have been. Then I see the fella tracking the VW wagon pushing 10k intervals with HPL. Blows my mind.
And they’re on sale soon!Because the oil is capable of it, even under tigeo’s lead foot at the track! It’s a very tough thing for people here to acknowledge what a beast of a lubricant HPL’s offerings are, even with evidence all over the used oil analysis section.
Oh that’s dangerous! I already have about a 15gal stash, why not add some more?!And they’re on sale soon!
5 gal pails, 20% off and $25 shipping… what’s not to love?Oh that’s dangerous! I already have about a 15gal stash, why not add some more?!
I know a guy who run a few rallies a year as part of American Rally Association with his Subaru rally car (I believe it has EJ engine) and he runs that exact oil in it - Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W-40.Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W40 since it's on every WM shelf. If you've turned up the wick on your Rex there's no point in not going to a 40 grade, and EJs have always lived famously on 40 grade.
Honestly, having owned both vehicles, I humbly say you’re really overthinking this. Port-injected FBs will happily run their entire lives on 20 grades, and the FA24, if it were not turbo’d, I’d run a 20 grade in it as well. It’s the turbo, and not even mainly because of the increased BMEP, but because of the turbo itself, that I would run at least a 30 grade. That grade, even with significant fuel dilution thanks to my wife’s driving habits, has returned admirably low wear metals and no signs of distress even at OCIs significantly longer than the average. In a WRX, once you add a couple bolt-ons and a tune, you may need to consider stepping up to a 40 grade depending on what the UOA says the ending viscosity it is.Link to UOA
I have also realized after considering the difference in rod bearing size and loading, and oil pump size, between the FA24DIT and FB25 - along with the elephant in the room of DI vs PFI, that I should run different oils in these if I want to optimize each in their use case. So thank you all for helping me get the information that makes it pretty apparent that my idea wasn't the best in engineering terms even if it would be convenient![]()
A tribologist told me there is no "CURE". Gasoline in oil permanently and irreversibly changes properties of engine oil.The only "cure" is high RPM and higher temperature.
The higher rpm helps fuel mixing (higher velocity) and the higher temperature helps cook off the fuel in the oil a bit. But it's only cooking off the lighter fractions-- the heavier hydrocarbons in gasoline will likely take much longer to cook off, and might never evaporate in some cycles.
With winter here, I'm going to be blocking off the intercooler to my car. The cold intake temperatures in most low-load conditions are a huge contributor to fuel dilution, since temperature is the main aid for fuel vaporization.
Hence the quotation marks. There is no real cure. But the worst of it can be somewhat mitigated. You can lower the nominal dilution, but the lighter fractions are all that you remove and it's all but impossible for the heaviest parts of gasoline to cook off because they flash about when oil does.A tribologist told me there is no "CURE". Gasoline in oil permanently and irreversibly changes properties of engine oil.
It can yes. There are really two detrimental effects, the first is the immediate reduction in viscosity which isn't good for anything. Gasoline is not a good lubricant. The second can be long-term degradation to the VII. HPL has talked about this in the past. It makes an undesirable situation more undesirable.A tribologist told me there is no "CURE". Gasoline in oil permanently and irreversibly changes properties of engine oil.
What are you optimizing?Link to UOA
I have also realized after considering the difference in rod bearing size and loading, and oil pump size, between the FA24DIT and FB25 - along with the elephant in the room of DI vs PFI, that I should run different oils in these if I want to optimize each in their use case. So thank you all for helping me get the information that makes it pretty apparent that my idea wasn't the best in engineering terms even if it would be convenient![]()