Alternate thoughts on using HPL

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Folks , what happened with the store shelf oils vs the specialty oils here recently? A while back lots of people on BITOG encouraged
people to "save your money and buy off the shelf at walmart or supertech etc..." I thought that was decent advice even though to each his own.
Now lately one of the hot topics here has been HPL. From what I have read is some very impressive / higher priced fluids. I am always
reading about every word I can about lubrication & companies. Is the latest interest in HPL mainly because some have found that their
long time favorites keep changing formulations or are being to difficult answering when contacted? I do see that HPL is very impressive and a consumer friendly manufacturer/supplier just exactly as you always want a really proud and confident company to be. They
also seem to back up their product with all the info they can get to the customers.
IMHO one of the most interesting things regarding HPL have been the oil filter media photos (Before/After) which show the amount of deposits HPL has removed from engines which have had "normal" maintenance on other oils.

Of course when it comes to offering recommendations context is everything. Specifically the users intended oil change interval (5k vs 10k).

Out of my own curiosity I have HPL 5w30 (ACEA C3) in the sump of my BMW. Going to run it for a year and take a look at the filter along with a UOA for viscosity/TBN.
 
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Agree.
WalMart no longer carries their house 10w-40 Blend on the shelves which led me to seek out another w-40 oil. They also don't carry much in the M1 brand. The M1 0W-40 used to be plentiful but not so much now. I've settled on QSUD Euro 5w-40 and scarfed enough to do OCI's on my most used vehicles. The QS Euro was the same price as the old SuperTech Syn 5w-30 which they also don't carry. I don't buy oil at the auto parts stores anymore because their prices are outrageous. We have two WalMart's in our area but we are a small community and I think we are the last stop for the delivery trucks and we get the left-over scraps.
If QS raises their prices and M1 doesn't, It may become an option.
I wonder if the producers are supplying their higher profit retailers first.
 

wtd

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I have not been following the HPL threads but it does look like a very good oil. I went to their site and checked it out. The only vehicle I would consider using it in would be my Mustang but I don't drive enough miles per year to justify the cost of it.
 
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I wonder what is the advantage of running long life oil at short mile oil changes?
When there is the probability that something like fuel dilution will deplete the add pack, a beefier add pack and/or higher viscosity are remedies to consider.

It has been known for the old M1 EP to be recommended for shorter OCIs also.

For me, investing in protective highest quality motor oil is a pleasure, and it comes at the additional mere cost of two Starbuck's coffees per month.
 
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the 10-30 HPL would suite me + my port injected 2011 fronty V-6 for yearly changes usually under 10 thou, BUT wondering about the gilrfriends 2.4 2018 Kia optima with DI that i change at 6 mo + usually under 5 thou + its the blackest quaker state fully synthetic 10-30 i ever seen!!
 
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When there is the probability that something like fuel dilution will deplete the add pack, a beefier add pack and/or higher viscosity are remedies to consider.
I have seen technical papers where gasoline can cause a temporary or even permanent degradation of the VII, but I haven't seen where it will "deplete the add pack". Where have you seen that, and which of the additives in particular? How do you deplete additives?
 
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I have seen technical papers where gasoline can cause a temporary or even permanent degradation of the VII, but I haven't seen where it will "deplete the add pack". Where have you seen that, and which of the additives in particular? How do you deplete additives?
I have no personal experience with fuel dilution. My source is the HPL Open House panel. Isn't there something chemical that takes place, outside of viscosity loss ?
 
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I have seen technical papers where gasoline can cause a temporary or even permanent degradation of the VII, but I haven't seen where it will "deplete the add pack". Where have you seen that, and which of the additives in particular? How do you deplete additives?
Maybe not deplete. The formulation panel at HPL stated that fuel dilution interferes, reduces the effectiveness of ZDDP in oil. I was present for the same discussion that @Direct_Rejection , and @JHZR2 attended.
 
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nothing scientific or tested just wondering if the VERY dirty LOOKING oil from DI is a candidate for extended changes. only thinking 1 yr under 10 thou BUT reading all the bad press with timing chains etc + dirty oil makes you wonder. with my 2001 1.8T jetta port injected+ only a 4.25 qt sump i went 10 thou, BUT on average 10 weeks with obviously almost highway driving using real synthetic Amsioil when advertised as such in the early 2000,s then after they quietly reformulated IMO i went to Redline both 10-30 + car went to 200 thou without issues!!
 
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Maybe not deplete. The formulation panel at HPL stated that fuel dilution interferes, reduces the effectiveness of ZDDP in oil. I was present for the same discussion that @Direct_Rejection , and @JHZR2 attended.
Ahh right I see. Yes I believe fuel dilution is not the benign phenomenon it is often portrayed on here based on UOA analysis. I just got stuck on the idea of it “depleting the add pack” and what that would take. How would one know this anyway, the same elements in a VOA would show up in the UOA in the same concentration unless it was just volumetric dilution. Even if they weren’t how would you know it’s due to the fuel.
 
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nothing scientific or tested just wondering if the VERY dirty LOOKING oil from DI is a candidate for extended changes. only thinking 1 yr under 10 thou BUT reading all the bad press with timing chains etc + dirty oil makes you wonder. with my 2001 1.8T jetta port injected+ only a 4.25 qt sump i went 10 thou, BUT on average 10 weeks with obviously almost highway driving using real synthetic Amsioil when advertised as such in the early 2000,s then after they quietly reformulated IMO i went to Redline both 10-30 + car went to 200 thou without issues!!
For me, the fuel dilution and the soot that DI produces, limits how long I will run it, regardless of the quality of the oil.

My next change on the Elantra will be HPL, and I plan to run that 15k. But it's port injected.
 
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nothing scientific or tested just wondering if the VERY dirty LOOKING oil from DI is a candidate for extended changes. only thinking 1 yr under 10 thou BUT reading all the bad press with timing chains etc + dirty oil makes you wonder. with my 2001 1.8T jetta port injected+ only a 4.25 qt sump i went 10 thou, BUT on average 10 weeks with obviously almost highway driving using real synthetic Amsioil when advertised as such in the early 2000,s then after they quietly reformulated IMO i went to Redline both 10-30 + car went to 200 thou without issues!!
I also wonder if the timing chain issues were due to wear from soot?

Would an HDEO oil's add pack better handle the soot from DI? Or is the soot in a diesel mostly offset by its thicker viscosity I.E. 15w40?

How would HPL's 5w-30 CK-4 heavy duty engine oil thats also SN rated, handle soot compared to a PCMO oil.

Granted with LSPI concerns you might not want to run it in a turbo car. But for non turbo DI, how would HDEO work?

Perhaps @High Performance Lubricants could answer that.
 
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"Depletion."
Terminology.
To the BITOG Penalty Box.
Rejected again.

However, I have a question.
Where does TBN retention play into this, if not in the form of "depletion" or a more appropriate term?
 

dnewton3

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What's clear to me is that the OP is not interested in facts and logic, but feelings and pandering to emotion. I mean no disrespect to him, because he should do whatever he wants to do, but we've got five pages of banter that has tip-toed around the underlying issue. I find it more than ironic that the OP has expressed concern about HPL vs the others because of cost, when he OCIs with several different quality syns every 5k miles anyway ... WHICH IS A TOTAL WASTE OF MONEY. And when it was suggested that he could control that cost with an annual HPL OCI, he balks.

Sir, do what you want; that's the criteria you're using anyway. You're not thinking through this logically; you're "feeling" your way to the answer which reinforces whatever bias you already have. And that's totally fine by us; you have every right to do that. But it's obvious to me you're not using logic as your measuring stick here.

Any syn lube you choose will be way more than adequate to make the engine last a very long time. An engine which already is known for extreme longevity when even the most basic lubes are used. So anything you choose is going to be overkill at 5k mile OCIs.
 

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