Turn or Replace Rotors

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barlowc

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I've searched and read as much as I can find about this, and it seems there's no real consensus. But I thought I'd ask (again) anyway.
smile.gif


The Saturn in our signature is about due for a front brake job. The pads only have a few millimeters left and there's moderate pulsation in the pedal due to what I suspect is runout. The vehicle is 5 years old, has about 59K on the odometer, and the rotors are the original ones and have never been turned before. Because we live in Michigan, components such as rotors tend to rust a lot.

So my question is, should I just get them turned (assuming that they're still within spec), or is the "right" thing to do replacing them?

It's not so much a matter of cost. I just hate waste if there's life left in the rotors. At the same time, I want to do the job right so that it'll last and I don't have to do it again anytime soon.
 
Originally Posted By: barlowc
I've searched and read as much as I can find about this, and it seems there's no real consensus. But I thought I'd ask (again) anyway.
smile.gif


The Saturn in our signature is about due for a front brake job. The pads only have a few millimeters left and there's moderate pulsation in the pedal due to what I suspect is runout. The vehicle is 5 years old, has about 59K on the odometer, and the rotors are the original ones and have never been turned before. Because we live in Michigan, components such as rotors tend to rust a lot.

So my question is, should I just get them turned (assuming that they're still within spec), or is the "right" thing to do replacing them?

It's not so much a matter of cost. I just hate waste if there's life left in the rotors. At the same time, I want to do the job right so that it'll last and I don't have to do it again anytime soon.



Replace them and get it over with,,You can get 20% off at AAP now
 
I personally like as much thermal mass as possible, resurfaced rotors have some mass removed.

Plus, every vented rotor Ive ever seen have a lot of rust inside of them between the cooling vanes, if they have been used and live outdoors for a few years.

So I prefer changing.

Not sure if you can get US made rotors anymore, but I suppose the Chinese ones are so cheap, it justifies repalcement vs resurface.

If there is a hat on the rotors, I especially like painted surfaces to protect against surface rust. Ive painted them myself with good results using hi-temp caliper paint.
 
I've had good luck with Centrex. Try Rockauto. Unless they're rusted on, changing rotors is not difficult. I had a set of Brembos which rusted excessively, but this is New England, where sometimes there is so much salt on the roads it looks like snow.
 
Centric 125 series high carbon are great if they are available, but IIRC you have had a poor experience before with Centric. If that is the case, then try Brembo rotors. They utilize the high-carbon technology, but unfortunately the hats are not painted.

Also, runout does not directly cause pedal pulsation. Runout leads to pedal pulsation, as the runout will cause disc thickness variation. Disc thickness variation is the direct cause of the pedal pulsation. If you do not fix the runout, the pedal pulsation will return. So, be sure to use a roloc disc or a 3M hub cleaning tool to thoroughly clean the hub flange.

Lastly, rotor refinishing has such huge variations in quality that it is best to just get new rotors. This webinar describes the issues fairly well:

http://www.oeqf.com/techinfo/index.htm
 
I personally always resurface rotors on every brake job; very little needs to come off and they're serviceable for a long time. Like you, I hate to throw good equipment in the trash.

That said, I have a friend in Michigan who periodically sends me pictures of the brake jobs he does on cars. The amount of rust is unbelievable. I believe that if I lived in the salt belt, I'd probably buy new rotors, as some of the points above about rust clogging the cooling vanes are relevant. We don't have that issue in the south.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
I've had good luck with Centrex. Try Rockauto.

Nope, The Critic is correct. I had a bad experience with RockAuto and Centric and will not buy from them again. I'll buy rotors locally; pads I'll get online or locally based on where I can get the best price for pads I want.
 
Just did the brakes on my 2002 Taurus.

Although I'd probably turn my rotors if I were you. I have no idea what salt does to a car. Never lived anywhere that got a bunch of snow.

I shopped around and settled on Raybestos from Amazon. I used the Raybestos website to make sure I was getting the right ones. The came ready to install and had painted surfaces. Due to my Prime account shipping was free.

Shop around and see what is available for your car. I'd buy a name brand and get their Premium line as you are saving crazy money doing the labor yourself.
 
I agree that replacement is a better choice. If you purchase quality rotors, you shouldn't have any issues for a long time.

My 07 Honda Civic EX has 150,000 highway miles on it and is due for a second front pad change. The original rotors were fine at 65k when I first replaced the pads but this time I'm also getting slight vibration while braking, esp at highway speeds so I'm replacing them.

TireRack has Brembo blanks for my Civic for $100 which are on sale right now for just $38 so it was a no brainer for me. I've used the Brembo blanks before while racing at the track in another car and know they're quality pieces.

I also upgraded the pads from the factory slush material and went with Hawk Ceramic performance pads. They are a ultra low and ultra dust free pad that offers increased braking performance over OEM.

My front brake job came out to:

Front Rotors: $39 each x 2 = $76
Hawk performance Ceramic pads: $75

$23 for shipping

Total $174 shipped to my door step. I personally think thats an awesome deal considering the quality of the parts.

My research showed the an OEM replacement would have cost me $144 for rotors + $42 for pads = $186

AZ or AAP "gold" quality parts would have run about $170 for quality that i never had any experience with.

I've also never had my rotors turned as i prefer to replace them if they show even the slightest wear or vibrations.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
I also upgraded the pads from the factory slush material and went with Hawk Ceramic performance pads.

For pads, I'm debating between:

1) OE, which is make by Akebono.
2) Wagner ThermoQuiet
3) Bendix CT-3
4) Akebono Pro-ACT

They all cost about the same and I suspect they'll perform equally on this vehicle and given the driving conditions.
 
Originally Posted By: barlowc
4) Akebono Pro-ACT


I've installed two sets of Akebono Pro-ACT pads now, one set on our Acura and one set on a friend's BMW, and I've been impressed both times. Next time I need brakes, these are my pads.
 
Since you're getting pulsing in the brake pedal and have a lot of rust in the rotor vanes, go ahead and buy new rotors. You can get good quality rotors for ~$45 each these days.
 
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
I've installed two sets of Akebono Pro-ACT pads now, one set on our Acura and one set on a friend's BMW, and I've been impressed both times. Next time I need brakes, these are my pads.

The only thing I don't like about these pads is that it doesn't appear as if they come with the abutment hardware like the others do.
 
Originally Posted By: barlowc
The only thing I don't like about these pads is that it doesn't appear as if they come with the abutment hardware like the others do.


True, but for my applications, the hardware kits are only $10 or so from Raybestos or USA Brake. I've used the Wagner ThermoQuiets before and didn't like them (they were, ironically, pretty squeaky). I've also heard very good things about Raybestos' line of Advanced Technology parts, but I haven't used any yet.
 
Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner
I like HAWK HPS pads, low dusting and high performance.

I do not like ceramic pads unless they were OEM. Although VERY low dusting, they stop poorly and can warp rotors.



I have Hawk HPS pads on my tC and had them on my Si, they are definitely NOT low dusting, regardless of what even Hawk themselves say. My front wheels require a cleaning midway through the week because they are black and then they get washed about on saturday during the full car wash.

They perform AMAZINGLY and thus are worth the dust battle to me and i will definitely buy them about when replacement time comes for my performance oriented vehicle which gets driver aggressively but for the every day Civic which is driven normally to maximize gas mileage, i need something a little bit mellow and the Hawk Ceramic fit the bill.
 
I upgraded the front brakes on one of my 4 cyl Camrys to the bigger calipers and rotors from the V6 (same hub) I used Centrex parts , and it has worked out well. I got a good price on some EBC pads, a little more dust than I like but they work. Overall the car stops a lot better.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
No one pad can work for every car/truck/person.

Indeed. That's why I have the OE pads on my short list. And I've heard from VUE owners have liked the ThermoQuiet pads.
 
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