Rear brakes for the SRT

REMOVAL




Disc Brake Caliper - Removal (Rear, SRT8)

  1. Vehicle
  2. Brakes and Traction Control
  3. Hydraulic System
  4. Brake Caliper
  5. Service and Repair
  6. Removal and Replacement
  7. Disc Brake Caliper - Removal (Rear, SRT8)
DISC BRAKE CALIPER - REMOVAL (REAR, SRT8)

REAR - SRT8


NOTE:
These calipers are not serviceable. Do not attempt disassembly.

NOTE:

Views are typical.


  1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
  2. Install a prop rod on the brake pedal to keep pressure on the brake system. Holding the pedal in this position will isolate the master cylinder from the hydraulic brake system and will not allow brake fluid to drain out of the brake fluid reservoir while the brake lines are open. This will allow you to bleed out the area of repair instead of the entire system.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure) .
  4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.


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  5. Remove the banjo bolt (2) connecting the flexible brake hose (3) to the caliper (4). There are two sealing washers (one on each side of hose fitting) that will come off when the bolt is removed. Discard these washers; install NEW washers on installation.

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    [COLOR=ffa500]CAUTION:






  1. [/td]
    [td]
    When pushing pistons back into caliper bores, use only a trim stick as shown or other suitable soft tool. Never use a screwdriver or other metal pry bar due to potential damage to braking surface of rotor, caliper, pistons or dust boots.

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  2. Place a trim stick between the brake pad and the outer edge of rotor.
  3. Using trim stick, slowly apply pressure against the brake pad until both pistons (on that side of the caliper) are completely bottomed in the bores of the caliper half.
  4. Remove the lower and upper caliper mounting bolts (1).
  5. Remove the brake caliper (4) with pads from the mount and brake rotor.
  6. If the brake pads need to be replaced from caliper (Refer to 05 - Brakes/Hydraulic/Mechanical/PADS and/or SHOES, Brake - Removal) .
RELATED INFORMATION

 
Ah OK, I did not pick up on the fact you ordered HAWK.
I think these rotors should be hard enough. I had EBC Premium rotors in combination with EBC Green Stuff pads (street performance) and they lasted only 35,000 miles on Toyota, though they were vast improvement over Toyota's. They did not vibrate, but went to minimum thickness.
I had their Sport rotors, slotted on VW CC, and they were harder.
Have you thought about doing a cryo treatment on the rotors, like with 300* Below or similar? Supposedly nearly all applications see a 2-4x increase in life of the hard parts after treatment.

I haven’t yet compared treated rotors vs. non-treated yet, but I have done some high-wear metal parts like gears and CNC tooling, and I can say it actually worked vs average life before treating.
 
Thanks to @UncleDave and the others that recommended the Hawk HPS 5.0 pads for the front, I've been super happy with them! Now it's time to do the rears, priced factory rotors expecting them to be more reasonable than the front, they were not. OE pads and rotors were about $2K and since I was already planning on going with the Hawk HPS 5.0 pads on the rear, I figured I'd take a peek at what was available rotor-wise.

Only a couple companies seem to make them, but the EBC ones seem to be well regarded, so I ordered them:
View attachment 243668

They were less than half the price of the OE rotors, we'll see how they hold up. I'm hoping that since they are coated, they will resist rust better than the OE ones which are quite rusty right now.

Pads are already here, so as soon as the rotors show up, it's brake time!

Job looks ridiculously easy, knock out the pins to do the pads, then two 18mm bolts to remove the caliper bracket to get the rotor out, should take maybe an hour in the driveway.
If you want to make them last longer a number of the SCCA racers have their rotors cryo treated.
 
If you want to make them last longer a number of the SCCA racers have their rotors cryo treated.
Judging by the rate of wear with the fronts now with the Hawk pads (vs the OE, which were like an angle grinder) I expect my issue will be corrosion, like it is on the RAM, not wear unfortunately :(
 
Have you thought about doing a cryo treatment on the rotors, like with 300* Below or similar? Supposedly nearly all applications see a 2-4x increase in life of the hard parts after treatment.

I haven’t yet compared treated rotors vs. non-treated yet, but I have done some high-wear metal parts like gears and CNC tooling, and I can say it actually worked vs average life before treating.
Nah. Toyota rotors are just junk. Undersized and there is always some good alternative. EBC is good alternative and if I went sport rotors and not premium, they would last far longer.
 
Nah. Toyota rotors are just junk. Undersized and there is always some good alternative. EBC is good alternative and if I went sport rotors and not premium, they would last far longer.
Toyota rotors are excellent. Extremely low runout, high carbon content, very smooth surface. I have seen much better longevity from Toyota rotors compared to aftermarket.
 
Toyota rotors are excellent. Extremely low runout, high carbon content, very smooth surface. I have seen much better longevity from Toyota rotors compared to aftermarket.
No Toyota rotor I ever used, whether on Sienna or Prado was ever good. Are they good to drop kids to school? Perhaps. Driving what a vehicle actually is capable of (not high bar) is a different story. EBC was FAR better than Toyota OE. I used on Sienna also Raybestos, and it was also junk.
Also, no they don't have nearly as close carbon amount as for example Euro rotors.
Now, VW Atlas has similar issue. Very light-colored rotors, although OK size indicates low carbon content, and on my ATlas, I managed to get vibration 5k after purchasing the vehicle, and again 6-7k after replacing those with OE. ATE resolved issue. Darker rotors, doesn't matter how much you push them, they take it. But then, I tracked BMW with ATE rotors for 40,000k.
But, VW cheapened a lot of stuff, including brakes. On the Sienna and Prado, there was also a problem with the size of the brakes.
 
No Toyota rotor I ever used, whether on Sienna or Prado was ever good. Are they good to drop kids to school? Perhaps. Driving what a vehicle actually is capable of (not high bar) is a different story. EBC was FAR better than Toyota OE. I used on Sienna also Raybestos, and it was also junk.
Also, no they don't have nearly as close carbon amount as for example Euro rotors.
Now, VW Atlas has similar issue. Very light-colored rotors, although OK size indicates low carbon content, and on my ATlas, I managed to get vibration 5k after purchasing the vehicle, and again 6-7k after replacing those with OE. ATE resolved issue. Darker rotors, doesn't matter how much you push them, they take it. But then, I tracked BMW with ATE rotors for 40,000k.
But then, VW cheapened a lot of stuff, including brakes. On the Sienna and Prado, there was also a problem with the size of the brakes.
Agree to disagree, though it sounds like it is an issue with your driving habits.
 
Agree to disagree, though it sounds like it is an issue with your driving habits.
I use engine to brake.
But, I did not rollover vehicle or hit anything. This means I drove it in an envelope for what it can sustain. Both, Sienna and Prado.
But when the brakes on my two other vehicles that are smaller, 1.100 lbs smaller, are bigger, then there is an issue.
EBC resolved that issue. Actually, I drove Sienna much more aggressive with EBC brakes than Toyota brakes, bcs. well, they worked better. And the only reason why I replaced them was, well, they wore out. No vibration, no fading.
So yeah, cheap junk.
 
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