Rear brakes for the SRT

OVERKILL

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Thanks to @UncleDave and the others that recommended the Hawk HPS 5.0 pads for the front, I've been super happy with them! Now it's time to do the rears, priced factory rotors expecting them to be more reasonable than the front, they were not. OE pads and rotors were about $2K and since I was already planning on going with the Hawk HPS 5.0 pads on the rear, I figured I'd take a peek at what was available rotor-wise.

Only a couple companies seem to make them, but the EBC ones seem to be well regarded, so I ordered them:
1728078716662.webp


They were less than half the price of the OE rotors, we'll see how they hold up. I'm hoping that since they are coated, they will resist rust better than the OE ones which are quite rusty right now.

Pads are already here, so as soon as the rotors show up, it's brake time!

Job looks ridiculously easy, knock out the pins to do the pads, then two 18mm bolts to remove the caliper bracket to get the rotor out, should take maybe an hour in the driveway.
 
Hawk HPS 5.0 pads, to match the front.
Ah OK, I did not pick up on the fact you ordered HAWK.
I think these rotors should be hard enough. I had EBC Premium rotors in combination with EBC Green Stuff pads (street performance) and they lasted only 35,000 miles on Toyota, though they were vast improvement over Toyota's. They did not vibrate, but went to minimum thickness.
I had their Sport rotors, slotted on VW CC, and they were harder.
 
Glad you were able to find good parts at a price much less than OE :)

Hawk and EBC are well-liked on here.

So, apparently DFC now has front rotors for your Trackhawk for only $119 each on Rock Auto. Part number is 91042040. last one at the very bottom. They are standard 1-piece replacements for the 2-piece stock rotors. They are by far the cheapest option for your Trackhawk
:D

However, they might not be as good as the EBC and Hawk that you got, but some people might still be interested in something cheaper.
 
Glad you were able to find good parts at a price much less than OE :)

Hawk and EBC are well-liked on here.

So, apparently DFC now has front rotors for your Trackhawk for only $119 each on Rock Auto. Part number is 91042040. last one at the very bottom. They are standard 1-piece replacements for the 2-piece stock rotors. They are by far the cheapest option for your Trackhawk
:D

However, they might not be as good as the EBC and Hawk that you got, but some people might still be interested in something cheaper.
Rather amusingly, the EBC 2-piece front rotors are actually cheaper than OE:

1728085612370.webp
 
1
2020 Jeep Truck Grand Cherokee 4WD

V8-6.2L SC

Community
1

Quote

Brake Pads - Removal (Rear, SRT8)

  1. Vehicle
  2. Brakes and Traction Control
  3. Disc Brake System
  4. Brake Pad
  5. Service and Repair
  6. Removal and Replacement
  7. Brake Pads - Removal (Rear, SRT8)
BRAKE PADS - REMOVAL (REAR, SRT8)

REAR - SRT8


NOTE:
Views are typical.
  1. Raise and support the vehicle (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Hoisting - Standard Procedure) .
  2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  3. Using a hammer and pin punch on the outboard end, tap the upper brake pad support pin (1) out of the caliper (2).
  4. Remove the brake pad spring clip (3) out from under the lower support pin (4) still in the caliper.
  5. Using a pin punch and hammer, remove the lower brake pad support pin (4) in the same manner used on the upper support pin.


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    [td]
    [COLOR=ffa500]CAUTION:






  1. [/td]
    [td]
    When pushing pistons back into caliper bores, if hand pressure is not sufficient, use only a trim stick or other suitable soft tool to do so. Never use a screwdriver or other metal pry bar due to potential damage to braking surface of rotor or pads.

    [/td]​

  2. Using hand pressure, pull the pads back to seat the caliper pistons into the bores if possible. If not possible, perform the following to do this correctly without damaging the caliper, pistons, dust boots or brake rotor disc.
    1. Place a trim stick between the inboard brake pad and the outer edge of rotor.
    2. Using a trim stick, apply pressure against the inboard brake pad until both pistons are completely bottomed in the bores of inboard caliper half. Leave the trim stick in place to hold the pistons in place.
    3. Place a second trim stick between the outboard brake pad and rotor, then repeat above step on the outboard pad and pistons.


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  3. Remove the inboard and outboard brake pads (2) through the opening in the caliper (1).
  4. Once the brake pads are removed from the caliper (1), inspect all four caliper pistons and dust boots for evidence of brake fluid leakage. Also inspect the dust boots on all caliper pistons for any cuts, tears or heat cracks and brake pad supports (if equipped) for excess wear or damage. If the caliper fails inspection, it should be replaced.
RELATED INFORMATION
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Just to add a data point to the conversation, I'm running Hawk HPS (a step up from the 5.0) on the BMW in my sig; I track the car and is a daily driver. With Centric blanks, I'm at 20k; half pad life left.
 
Not sure why my above service info above pasted as dark colors - it was copied as regular white background - sorry. Highlight in the post and the text is readable
 
Not sure why my above service info above pasted as dark colors - it was copied as regular white background - sorry. Highlight in the post and the text is readable
see if deleting "[/COLOR]" at the end of your post fixes anything
 
People here will disagree, but since I have been following the one time use hardware thing for all my personal projects, I feel like it is a much more complete job. Plus it is nice having all new hardware.
The question is why are the fasteners replaced?? If it’s because they hold a lot of stress and high torque values, ok.

Reality though is that I think it’s more of a moneymaker and time saver for the dealer. It seems to be solely associated with the removal and application of the dry loctite.

But that’s my theory… maybe there really is more to it than picture and corrosion damage.
 
Got the info for the rotors?

INSTALLATION

Disc Brake Caliper - Installation (Rear, SRT8)

  1. Vehicle
  2. Brakes and Traction Control
  3. Hydraulic System
  4. Brake Caliper
  5. Service and Repair
  6. Removal and Replacement
  7. Disc Brake Caliper - Installation (Rear, SRT8)
DISC BRAKE CALIPER - INSTALLATION (REAR, SRT8)

REAR - SRT8


NOTE:
Views are typical.



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CAUTION:







[/td]
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Always inspect brake pads before installing disc brake caliper and replace as necessary.

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  1. Completely retract the caliper pistons back into the bores of the caliper. Use hand pressure, or a C-clamp may also be used to retract pistons, first placing a wood block or used brake pad (not to be reused) over the piston before installing the C-clamp to avoid damaging the piston.
  2. If installing new brake pads (5), (Refer to 05 - Brakes/Hydraulic/Mechanical/PADS and/or SHOES, Brake - Installation) .

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  3. Slide the caliper (4) with pads over the brake rotor and align with the knuckle.
  4. Install the caliper mounting bolts (1) and tighten to 120 N·m (89 ft. lbs.).
  5. Install the banjo bolt (2) attaching the brake hose (3) to the caliper (4). Install NEW washers on each side of the hose fitting (3) as the banjo bolt is placed through the hose fitting (3). Thread the banjo bolt (2) into the caliper (4) and tighten to 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
  6. Install the tire and wheel assembly (Refer to 22 - Tires and Wheels/Wheels - Standard Procedure) .

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    CAUTION:

    [/td]
    [td]
    If NEW brake pads have been installed, keep in mind that braking effectiveness might be somewhat reduced during the first brake applications.

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  7. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
  8. Connect the battery negative cable.
  9. Remove the prop rod from the brake pedal.
  10. Bleed the area of repair for the brake system. If a proper pedal is not felt during bleeding an area of repair then a base bleed system must be performed (Refer to 05 - Brakes - Standard Procedure) .
RELATED INFORMATION

 
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