Turn or Replace Rotors

[mechtech2]

Hawk HPS pads are filthy, but work very well it's your call.
Rotors? I'd get new ones.
Why? Internal rust, cost and trouble of getting them cut, less mass afterwards, and good luck getting a true cut - it is rare.
Cheap Chinese rotors can be very good. Thre are no sure things concerning expensive rotors. Avoid slotted, drilled, etc rotors. Get plain ones.
CLEAN your new rotors - use brake cleaner and dish soap and water .
Rotors are shipped with protective 'grease' that should be thoroughly removed.

 

[86cutlass307]

Barlowc - I used Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors and pads on the front & rear of my daughter's 2000 LS2 sedan and have been extremely pleased. The only real dusting occured during the break-in miles/time, it's been a year and they are doing well. When I drive it I am very happy with the pedal feel and stopping ability. The rotors cost a little more but they come balanced and corossion treated. I would buy the same sets again.

 

[stephen9666]

Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner

I do not like ceramic pads unless they were OEM. Although VERY low dusting, they stop poorly and can warp rotors.


Not true. This is a broad generalization.

There are poor performing ceramic pads and very good performing ceramic pads.

The ceramic CT-3 pads I installed on my car have a GG friction rating, which is quite high for a street pad. The factory pads were FF.

 

[mechtech2]

GG IS high. Nice.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: stephen9666
Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner

I do not like ceramic pads unless they were OEM. Although VERY low dusting, they stop poorly and can warp rotors.


Not true. This is a broad generalization.

There are poor performing ceramic pads and very good performing ceramic pads.

The ceramic CT-3 pads I installed on my car have a GG friction rating, which is quite high for a street pad. The factory pads were FF.


I hope you replaced the rears as well, for balanced braking.

 

[chevys10]

Looking at Centric rotors for my Mazda now. Painted hats and veins are interesting. Chicago salt killed OEM ones. Wish more brands would offer a rust resistant coating.

 

[barlowc]

Originally Posted By: chevys10
Looking at Centric rotors for my Mazda now.

Buyer beware! A number of months ago we bought some Centric 120-Series rotors for my brother's car. They warped (or whatever) very quickly and neither RockAuto nor Centric would stand behind the product. Just sayin.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: stephen9666
Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner

I do not like ceramic pads unless they were OEM. Although VERY low dusting, they stop poorly and can warp rotors.


Not true. This is a broad generalization.

There are poor performing ceramic pads and very good performing ceramic pads.

The ceramic CT-3 pads I installed on my car have a GG friction rating, which is quite high for a street pad. The factory pads were FF.



The word "ceramic" has become a marketing buzzword. It can be 1% of the pad formula and still be touted.

GG is a nice Cf, I'd use those if they could stand me!

 

[Robotaz]

Unless you autocross or race on a track, you don't have warped rotors. Sand the pad material off and they'll be fine. Don't tell everyone though or lots of people will be out of work.

 

[Robotaz]

No, your brother glazed the rotors because he doesn't know what he's doing. RockAuto nor Centric owes him a dime for being a moron. You need to do a lot more research on brakes if you seriously believe what you are saying.

 

[Robotaz]

Very good rotors at a reasonable price. That's IF you actually need new rotors, which I highly doubt.

If you haven't sanded them, do that. Problem solved.

 

[barlowc]

Originally Posted By: Robotaz
Unless you autocross or race on a track, you don't have warped rotors. Sand the pad material off and they'll be fine. Don't tell everyone though or lots of people will be out of work.

Interesting. The vehicle in question (if you read the beginning of the thread) is a 2007 Saturn VUE. Obviously, we don't autocross or race that vehicle. So maybe the runout is due to pad material that can simply be sanded off? Though, being the skeptic that I am, if that's such a feasible solution, I have to wonder why more people aren't simply doing that and why I haven't read about more, smart, BITOGers doing just that.

Originally Posted By: Robotaz
No, your brother glazed the rotors because he doesn't know what he's doing. RockAuto nor Centric owes him a dime for being a moron. You need to do a lot more research on brakes if you seriously believe what you are saying.

So having joined just today, you know everything about that situation, such that you're able to conclude that my brother glazed his rotors? I only have one thing to say to that, and it'll be sensored.

Nonetheless, [censored] off!

Originally Posted By: Robotaz
Very good rotors at a reasonable price. That's IF you actually need new rotors, which I highly doubt. If you haven't sanded them, do that. Problem solved.

Three separate replies, all within 5 minutes of one another. Who the [censored] taught you how to participate in forums? And you're calling my brother a moron!?

To the rest of my fellow, respected BITOGers from which I appreciated suggestions, advice, and opinions, can anyone tell me more about sanding rotors? What grit/type of paper should I use? Or is it a fruitless effort/attempt that I shouldn't bother wasting my time with?

 

[Thax]

Originally Posted By: barlowc
Originally Posted By: Artem
I also upgraded the pads from the factory slush material and went with Hawk Ceramic performance pads.

For pads, I'm debating between:

1) OE, which is make by Akebono.
2) Wagner ThermoQuiet
3) Bendix CT-3
4) Akebono Pro-ACT

They all cost about the same and I suspect they'll perform equally on this vehicle and given the driving conditions.
All 4 choices are high quality , I however would suggest Akebono Pro-act pads

 

[Eddie]

If the braking is good without pulsing then I vote on NOT replacing the rotors unless heavy gouging is evident. If I am happy with the 59K service and low dust on OEM, then I would use OEM again. At 74 years old and having performed lots of brake jobs, this is the way to go in my opinion. There can be problems and lots of issues when switching to a pad & rotor combinations that don't seem to work as advertise and I don't like to do in-field customer engineering or a Beta tester. ). Ed

 

[Greggy_D]

Here in Michigan? Replace with every brake job.

For what they charge to turn you could almost buy new after discount or via Amazon.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Originally Posted By: barlowc
To the rest of my fellow, respected BITOGers from which I appreciated suggestions, advice, and opinions, can anyone tell me more about sanding rotors? What grit/type of paper should I use? Or is it a fruitless effort/attempt that I shouldn't bother wasting my time with?

Not sure if you are going to use a sander/grinder or do this by hand, but how will you ensure they are true? Could you not have them lightly cut to remove the material and true the rotor at the same time?

 

[barlowc]

@2010_FX4, that's why I asked after Robotaz mentioned sanding rotors. It's not something I've heard/read much, if anything, about so I wanted some further input from you guys.

Given the lack of a response from folks saying, "yes, sand your rotors, it works great and save money" I gather that it would likely be a waste of my time to try it.

 

[Eddie]

I sand only to take any glazing and rust off. Not to replace turning..

 

[wirelessF]

I ahd the OEM truck rotors turned once since they have lots of meat and since it's cheaper than getting quality rotors and probably way better than some cast thin rotors. Next brake job I'll slurge for some fancy rotors and exotic material brake pads.

For cars since they are dirt cheap I'll just replace them.

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: barlowc
To the rest of my fellow, respected BITOGers from which I appreciated suggestions, advice, and opinions, can anyone tell me more about sanding rotors? What grit/type of paper should I use? Or is it a fruitless effort/attempt that I shouldn't bother wasting my time with?

Not sure if you are going to use a sander/grinder or do this by hand, but how will you ensure they are true? Could you not have them lightly cut to remove the material and true the rotor at the same time?


It is recommended to use 120 grit sanding paper to remove the previous brake film layer from the previous pads before installing new pads. Of course the proper sanding block is also needed to insure you do an even job at sanding.

If the rotor is in good looking shape and without any noticeable grooves developing (if you didn't have any vibrations) i say leave them on.

If any type of abnormal discoloration or grooves are developing, i personally replace the rotors. If you plan ahead and buy them during a sale, it's the same price to replace with quality new rotors vs having the old ones turned.

Just my opinion.

I just replaced the front rotors on my 2007 Civic EX after 150k miles of use. I'll post pictures of their condition in the morning.