Trying to find pliable washer

[Vikas]

This is turning out to be real pain in the neck. After the loss of the drain plug threads, the new plug with its plastic (?) washer does not seal. I believe what has happened is the new threads are probably are not not perfectly horizontal. Last oil change, it was the same story. Every night I was tightening it almost for a week until the leak stopped. So this time it was tightened while still on the lift. I made him start the car put and it back on the lift. It was running for few minutes but we did not notice any leak. Unfortunately, when parked the van in my garage, there was fresh spot on the floor after few hours.

The original plug was 17mm headed bolt, the replacement is 9/16 headed bolt. It must be SAE threads. I would have to buy assorted gaskets before the next oil change. What type of gasket would work in my case? A thick and compressible but it needs to be oil and heat proof.

 

[Eddie]

Neoprene washer

 

[SHOZ]

Hyundais come with an aluminum washer that you change every time. Or maybe a copper one?

 

[ChrisW]

I know I've seen these blue rubber {at least they appear to be blue rubber] washers that are in the carded package next to the aftermarket replacement oil drain plugs. The rubber would be more compressible than plastic or aluminum. If your drain plug is what stripped out prompting you to purchase a new one, and you pan threads are still good, I'd suggest getting a new drain plug that you can use a copper/aluminum/rubber washer on.

 

[JimPghPA]

McMaster-Carr has just about anything you could ever want regarding all kinds of products. They stock almost everything in their catalog and that is more than 510,000 different items. I tried to copy and post their web page on copper sealing washers, but it lost some of its organization in the process

Go to their web site and enter sealing washers and then chose from the list.

And McMaster-Carr is the largest customer of UPS. They have a special deal with UPS allowing them to get a very low price for each package. They pass that savings on to their customers. There is no minimum, though if the washers you want only come in a pack of a certain number you may have to purchase the whole pack. Also ninety percent of the time if you order it today it will show up at your door tomorrow. About ten percent of the time the location has the item will be at one of their far locations, and then it will take 2 days.

 

[Vikas]

Pan thread was stripped and a new one was made but it must have gone in slightly crooked. thanks for the hints about neoprene, auto parts store blue washer, sealing washers and McMaster-Carr. If they have assorted packet, I will just go for that.

 

[chevrofreak]

Fumoto valve and JB Weld.

 

[dave munson]

I'm another fan of copper crush washers. Years ago I cornered the fastenal guy at work and slipped him a 10-bill for two boxes for the wife's subaru. When I had to reorder I could not find these washers until I tried aircraft supply places. Try these below link).

Get a dozen or so. That way you won't try to reuse it too many times.

http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraft.com/viewitems/aircraft-washers/an900-copper-crush-washer

 

[Grebbler]

Yeah, if your threads are cocked, the plastic washer will not conform to the pan. This will not only leak but the bolt could loosen because the face is only contacting on one side.

A more compliant washer will work but will still be side stressed.

I don't play much with JB Weld but it may have its use here. Here's an idea for debate:

Next oil change, de-grease around the hole and scuff with sandpaper. Mix up a small amount of the appropriate thick JB (aluminum?) formula. Put the JB around the hole while avoiding the threads. Screw in your old bolt with the plastic (Nylon? Delrin?) washer until it's lightly snug. Let it cure and take out the bolt. JB should not stick to Nylon, Delrin or probably any plastic used for sealing.

Now you should have a new mating surface that's parallel to the bolt face. Use a knife or something to bevel the inner edge of the hole and you should be able to use any washer you want as the mating pressure will be even.

If you have a thick aluminum pan with some snout around the hole, you could use a washerless bolt and a Sharpie to see where the faces meet and file the snout or pan until you get good contact all around.

Ed

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
Pan thread was stripped and a new one was made but it must have gone in slightly crooked. thanks for the hints about neoprene, auto parts store blue washer, sealing washers and McMaster-Carr. If they have assorted packet, I will just go for that.


It doesn't sound like a new washer is going to solve your problem. I don't think a flexible washer will solve an oil leak of the severity that you are describing.

In all honesty, it sounds like this may be the better option:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Hond...3c6&vxp=mtr

 

[SuperDave456]

I've used both Blue rubber and White plastic gaskets on the drain plug for my Ford Taurus.

Same thing with your car, it drips a little.
Seems to be a drip a two overnight. Very slow, but regular.

I'm pretty sure it is to some bozo at the automotive place using a huge wrench to over tighten the drain plug.

The car originally came with a fiber gasket, but that didn't last long.

I just recently went to NAPA and got a rubber coated copper washer of the appropriate diameter.
From what I understand, it should last me quite some time before I need to replace that one.

The solid plastic/rubber really should be replaced after every use. The heat cycles seem to take a toll on them and they seem to lose some of their pliability over time.

 

[Chris142]

Teflon tape?

 

[Vikas]

Quote:
I just recently went to NAPA and got a rubber coated copper washer of the appropriate diameter. From what I understand, it should last me quite some time before I need to replace that one.
I should try that.

Does Fumoto have a washer which allows extra 360 degrees of rotation? For example, when you put the Fumoto on the pan, if it is not aligned correctly, you just keep on tightening it, right? Are there any B&M stores which sell Fumoto? Given that threads no longer have the OEM pitch, I will have to find the matching one.

 

[chevrofreak]

Fumoto valves are brass. Do not over tighten. I usually have to stack up two aluminum gaskets to allow me to get the valve timed just right.

In this case I would seriously use a Fumoto valve with a couple of aluminum or copper crush washers coated with JB Weld, and once properly aligned I would put a good coating of it around the sealing surfaces, and then after that is cured I would wrap the valve handle and output port with some masking tape and spray the whole area with flex seal for an added layer of safety. You should be set for the life of the car.

 

[Vikas]

Which style would work better for me? The first one is from McMaster-Carr the other one is from Autozone. I will have to find the correct size first though.

 

[Vikas]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
It doesn't sound like a new washer is going to solve your problem. I don't think a flexible washer will solve an oil leak of the severity that you are describing.

In all honesty, it sounds like this may be the better option:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Hond...3c6&vxp=mtr

Unfortunately, that seems to be the wrong way to fix the problem. Then I will have dozens of more fasteners which would be prone to leak given my prior experience. Unless I can fly you to Boston to come and replace the oil pan yourself, that option is out of picture

 

[yonyon]

Of those two, the second is my personal favorite. The rubber is very soft and so long as it makes contact it will make a seal. The metal will limit it, though, so if your hole is as crooked as you make it sound, then you may still have a gap.

Something more along the lines of this (it not that one then something similar) might work out better for you. Once you get the hole straight, you have more options for a gasket that will work.

Alternatively, you could go with a new drain plug that uses a so-called integral gasket that is actually removable and replace that gasket with a very thick o-ring. That would be very compliant but require a new o-ring every time you remove it.

Another option is to get a bag of replacement non-replaceable gaskets made for those drain plugs with the not-really-integral gaskets and use them with a drain bolt that is made for use with a crush washer. It should seal with a crooked hole once, but when you remove the drain bolt the gasket will be torn apart. A whole bag of gaskets from a GM dealership usually cost about as much as buying just one from an auto parts store so get pricing before you buy if you try this.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Vikas

Unfortunately, that seems to be the wrong way to fix the problem. Then I will have dozens of more fasteners which would be prone to leak given my prior experience.


Are you saying that these drain plugs are prone to leakage? I've never had this problem...yet...knock on wood, if a new crush washer is used with every oil change.

You may want to try RTV on the threads and head of the plug, like this guy:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/rtv-on-engine-oil-drain-plug.194648/

 

[Vikas]

RE: yonyon,

that is the kit my mechanic used except the driver was colored red! For this oil change, we put new bolt and new washer.

I don't mind buying new expensive gasket every single time but I need to figure out which one. The trouble is this experiment can only be performed at every oil change and not earlier.

so far, this weekend, I have tightened it 15 degrees but it still had a little seepage, so I tightened another 5 degrees. I am hoping that will do it. I do this without jacking up the van. My neck is already hurting by contorting myself to reach the bolt from the front of the vehicle. The only Triangle 144 teeth ratchet works for this hack. I use my left palm to bang at that 8" ratchet. I do remember that Honda specifies about 30 ft-lb for the drain bolt which does seem quite a lot and I don't think I can over torque it by love tapping with my non-dominant hand. I still don't like it though and cringe at having to do so.

Re: TheCritic, I thought you suggested replacing the oil pan? Your ebay link pointed to the new pan. Doesn't replacing the pan involve whole bunch bolts and gasket and torque sequence etc etc??? More things to go wrong! Why tempt the fate?

Re: In General:-

I always thought that it was the tight mating of the threads that prevented fluid from leaking out of a drain bolt. As long as threads are under sufficient tension, there should not be a leak. For example, even with a serrated lock washer with a hole, I should be able to seal a drain bolt. If that is the case, then crooked hole should not matter. Am I all wet on that theory?

 

[yonyon]

Originally Posted By: Vikas


I always thought that it was the tight mating of the threads that prevented fluid from leaking out of a drain bolt. As long as threads are under sufficient tension, there should not be a leak. For example, even with a serrated lock washer with a hole, I should be able to seal a drain bolt. If that is the case, then crooked hole should not matter. Am I all wet on that theory?


Pretty much. There are plenty of transfer cases and differentials with a pipe plug sealing on the threads, but I can't think of any oil pan drain plug that works that way.