I've looked around a little and haven't been able to find much data on these filters. I realize OEMs don't generally post this type of information, but I was just wondering if there was any independent testing done? If no actual ISO 4548-12 of the OEM Toyota cartridge anyone post ISO partial counts??? I seem to recall data published on my OEM Honda spin-on filter #15400-PLC-003 and it wasn't great. I stopped using them after that. Just curious where Toyota is on this?
Toyota OEM cartridge - 04152-YZZA1 and ISO 4548-12??
- Thread starter GemStater
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Here's a link to a test that was done. There was another done but I forgot the link but the result was the same for the toyota.
(non-sponsor link removed; MOD)
Do you have the cartridge filter? If so bend a paperclip straight and try to put it through the openings in the pleats. I'll post a pic of an oem toyota filter showing why these tend to be bad and where you can try.
In testing it only scored 51% and the mazda roki filters are the same. Oil doesn't completely go through the pleats when not in bypass. The oil tries to go to the top or bottom and flow through the openings and goes into the clean side until so much flows that the pressure builds in that area and becomes restrictive enough to where it's lower pressure and less resistive to then go through the media. It's why some oil does filter but not anywhere near as much as it should.
Some say the media is sealed with some adhesive but I'm not seeing it and that the media itself is poor filtering but I don't believe either of the two. Modern filtration media isn't that poor at filtering unless they're making it as bad as possible but fram sells $4 cans with 95% at 20um and silicone adbv's and wouldn't do so if they weren't making a profit. 50% at 20um was common in the 70's/80's and was after that but only in $1-2 jobber filters. There's no other like it from what I can find.
(non-sponsor link removed; MOD)
Do you have the cartridge filter? If so bend a paperclip straight and try to put it through the openings in the pleats. I'll post a pic of an oem toyota filter showing why these tend to be bad and where you can try.
In testing it only scored 51% and the mazda roki filters are the same. Oil doesn't completely go through the pleats when not in bypass. The oil tries to go to the top or bottom and flow through the openings and goes into the clean side until so much flows that the pressure builds in that area and becomes restrictive enough to where it's lower pressure and less resistive to then go through the media. It's why some oil does filter but not anywhere near as much as it should.
Some say the media is sealed with some adhesive but I'm not seeing it and that the media itself is poor filtering but I don't believe either of the two. Modern filtration media isn't that poor at filtering unless they're making it as bad as possible but fram sells $4 cans with 95% at 20um and silicone adbv's and wouldn't do so if they weren't making a profit. 50% at 20um was common in the 70's/80's and was after that but only in $1-2 jobber filters. There's no other like it from what I can find.
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Thanks! Yes, this is the "independent" testing I saw... It's when I started second guessing my blue Honda OEM cans...
I see that Toyota more recently changed filter media to the "orange" color media. Wonder if 51% made them change to something better?
As far as by-passing through the pleats, could it be advantageous to use the cartridges with the plastic end caps? Like the XG9972...
I see that Toyota more recently changed filter media to the "orange" color media. Wonder if 51% made them change to something better?
As far as by-passing through the pleats, could it be advantageous to use the cartridges with the plastic end caps? Like the XG9972...
Although fram downgraded the canister style ultra and then botched the endurance with poor sealing bypass valves the cartridge style ultras are still some of the best.Thanks! Yes, this is the "independent" testing I saw... It's when I started second guessing my blue Honda OEM cans...
I see that Toyota more recently changed filter media to the "orange" color media. Wonder if 51% made them change to something better?
As far as by-passing through the pleats, could it be advantageous to use the cartridges with the plastic end caps? Like the XG9972...
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The end pleats are all sealed on Toyota filters. The glue may be a little farther in from the old ones. I have one right here I had cut open. No, they didn’t neglect to seal the gaps in the pleats.
Last weekend I bought the FS9972 (Titanium) 20,000 mile cartridge filter. The FF9972 15,000 mile filter was made in Brazil (stamped on top of the cap) while the FS9972 was made in USA. Just adding this info to the topic. No idea how one will/would perform vs the other and probably would never see a difference between a filter rated for 20,000 versus15,000 miles but the 15,000 filter was manufactured in Brazil.
Thanks! Could you possibly get some pics of the Titanium for the record?
BrendanC
$100 site donor 2024
probably the best filter you could be running. OG pink dual layer media
Here is the Endurance for my GX460, small amount of glue on the outside of the filter(seems common) gotta look through a few of them to get one with the least dribbles.
Agreed as long as on the dirty side and minimal.
All Toyota cartridges I've examined appear well sealed against that form of bypassing. Similarly constructed Fram filters I saw in in Advance appeared to lack the sealing adhesive at the ends of pleats. Perhaps it's there in some form, but harder to see.
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