Toyota 22RE top end rebuild starts tomorrow.

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Made my first rookie mistake on this engine.

Was pulling the harmonic balancer, and screwed the two removal bolts just a tad too far in, and I bent the metal dust shield that keeps road debris off the front seal. Balancer came off really easy though. Bent the dust shield back close to original, and I hope it does not rub when I get it back together.

Everything is off except head,lower intake, and oil pan. Head and lower intake is going to be pulled together at the same time. My old bones is feeling this job for sure.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: andyd
Maybe apples and oranges, but, I was told by Jeep guys to pack vaseline around the oil pump gears to ensure a prime. This was a 360 V* with an external OP driven off the distributor.


Always with any gear oil pump.


To ensure a prime was the reasoning behind greasing the pump is what I read, but others said it was not needed.

I already have the fuel injection fuse pulled, and will have the distributor coil wire pulled when I go to crank it for the first time. Just going to spin the starter in 10 second intervals with a starter cool down in between until the oil light goes off.
 
The cylinder head I am installing does have a new cam.

When I was at my local Walmart, I bought a five quart jug of the Motorcraft 10W-30 diesel oil. Front of the jug does say over 1,000 parts phosphorous, so I figured it should be good enough for the cam break in. These engines have about 75 pounds of spring pressure.

How long should I leave the break in oil in the engine before I change it again?
 
This is mostly with pumps in the pan. Front cover types like an old Buick or crank driven pumps only that have been removed and cleaned and are dry, you don't need to worry about it on this job unless you pulled the pump. If you did just pack it.

 
Thanks for the picture Trav!

Mine looks like that, and it is crank driven at the front timing cover. I am installing a new oil pump.

Have a big jar of vaseline I bought for the injector seal kit I will be installing, so I have plenty of vaseline on hand.
 
Originally Posted By: BigD1
The cylinder head I am installing does have a new cam.

When I was at my local Walmart, I bought a five quart jug of the Motorcraft 10W-30 diesel oil. Front of the jug does say over 1,000 parts phosphorous, so I figured it should be good enough for the cam break in. These engines have about 75 pounds of spring pressure.

How long should I leave the break in oil in the engine before I change it again?


When I installed the RV cam in my 4Runner, I used Brad Penn SAE30 break in oil and ran it for a few thousand miles following the break in. 50,000 miles later using various SN oils the cam still looks great. No real rush to change it out honestly as these engines have low spring pressure and direct oil the cam love from the rocker arms, you won't be wrong with anything you choose.

Use plenty of assembly lube on the cam lobes when you assemble.
 
Would have had it put back together this past Friday, but I freaked up.

I installed the head without the intake, and the two metal pipes that wrap around the back side of the head. The heater pipe connects to the bottom of the intake via two bolts, and is sealed by an o-ring. The other is for secondary air injection. There was no way I could get the pipes to install once the head was already mounted. Had to pull the head, and then install the intake and two pipes on the bench. It will all install as one unit onto the block.

All the auto parts stores in town only carried Fel-Pro head gaskets that are an older design. I ordered a Toyota head gasket that is the new design with the metal slipper plate. The head gasket that I ruined was a slipper plate design made in Japan, but the fire rings were a shiny stainless steel. The Toyota head gasket looks the same, but it differs in that the fire rings are a black looking steel. Anybody want to speculate on what the fire ring difference is?
 
Finally!

Got all the parts I needed today, and the engine is now up and running. Ended up installing a new set of four hole injectors that fit various Hyundai/KIA, and they are working good.

Took me longer than expected to get the job done. Ended up taking the upper intake off three times. Once on the initial tear down, and once when I first put it back together because the hard fuel line has to go in last because the wiring harness connectors will not be long enough. And then the third and final time today(hopefully) to install new injectors and a new fuel pressure regulator.

Waiting on parts to be shipped and delivered definitely caused this job to take longer than expected plus I did make mistakes a few times.
 
A ticking 22RE is a happy 22RE! They are not quite that's for sure.

Still have to adjust the valves. Had to adjust them cold when I put it back together, so I used the hot numbers of .008 on the intake valves, and .012 on the exhaust valves. It's running smooth right now, so I am going to run it for about a week before I adjust them hot which I am dreading to do.

Will go no go them hot at .008/.012. Some say to set it at .007 and .011 for more power and better gas mileage. Don't know about all that mess. That's not the hot valve adjustment numbers that are located on a sticker on the bottom side of the hood, and all manuals I have read, including the factory service manual, all say .008 and .012 hot.
 
If you're looking for gas mileage, you own the wrong truck. You also won't notice any running difference with 0.001 tighter.

Since you have a new head and valves you should run them loose for a while to break in. If the clearance ever gets to less than zero, the valve will burn. There will (and should) always be some valve noise from a manually adjusted engine. "Tappy is happy" they say.
 
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Definitely not worried about gas mileage. Just saying that I have read .007/.011 adjustment is supposed to be better. I went with the numbers under the hood .008/.012, which is the same as the manuals I have read.

It's definitely Tappy is Happy!
 
Noticed when I bought this truck that the water pump had been sealed with orange Permatex plus a gasket. I found a couple coolant passages in the cylinder head that were almost completely clogged with the orange silicone. Some knucklehead used way too much, and when it got squeezed out it went every where in the coolant system. Was still finding the orange silicone in the radiator floating on top at the radiator fill hole after three drain and fills with distilled water. Knucklehead must have used a whole dang tube of it.

I mentioned earlier in the thread about what I planned on using as sealants for the gaskets. At first I was going to use Gasgacinch, but then changed my tune to Permatex High Tack. Used High Tack on the timing cover gaskets, water pump gasket, and on the EGR cooler plate gasket. Lower intake was dry because I used a Fel-Pro gasket that had sealant around the ports. The upper intake gasket, and the throttle body gasket were both installed dry too. Thermostat housing seals with a rubber gasket that wraps around the edge of the thermostat, so no other gasket or sealant is needed.

I had used Permatex High Tack in the past to seal engines, so I went with a sealant that I know works very good. Sure the High Tack gets stringy, but I do not pay it any attention, and just keep on working.

The only silicone sealer I used was The Right Stuff black. It was used only where the bottom side of the timing cover meets the oil pan. That is where two oil pan bolts to the timing cover. Had an oil seep/leak there before the tear down, and now it's dry.
 
Originally Posted By: TheKracken
I really want a 22re truck for the mpg...

No you don't. They guzzle. 18 mpg, highway, on a very good day. A late model V8 F-150 actually gets better mileage.
 
I changed the original Denso one hole injectors with a two hole diffuser to a four hole design injector. Supposedly, this should increase fuel mileage because of the superior fuel atomization. I saw some videos where they did side by side tests, and the spray pattern is definitely superior.

I have not exactly calculated what fuel mileage I have been getting because I just wanted the truck for hauling whatever. My pickup is two wheel drive, and I do think it was getting just a little bit over 20 mpg before I made the repairs, and that was a ratio of 60 city 40 highway. Will check the fuel mileage one of these days.

Mine has a manual five speed, and the gearing is just not that helpful for maximum fuel efficiency. On the other hand, it does haul whatever pretty good for a small truck.
 
Originally Posted By: mk378
Originally Posted By: TheKracken
I really want a 22re truck for the mpg...

No you don't. They guzzle. 18 mpg, highway, on a very good day. A late model V8 F-150 actually gets better mileage.


This isn't true. I've logged over a quarter of a million miles on several 22RE powered trucks. My current 4Runner gets 16-18 in town and is always over 20 on the highway at any speed under 80. This is in a 4Runner which is MUCH heavier than a pickup. The best I've ever seen is 25.5 but 21-23 is a regular occurrence on the highway. Sure not great mileage compared to modern 4 cylinder engines but it's a gross mischaracterization to claim that they guzzle gas. Hack my 1992 Toyota pick up with 5.29 axle gears and 35 inch tall 14 inch wide bias ply tires with a welded rear differential still got 15 to 17 miles to the gallon on the highway.
 
my 93 4x4 with 5 speed will get no worse than 14, and usually gets around 22 depending how aggressive i drive it. with over 600K miles, it's well worn in.
 
I put about 100 miles on the engine since putting it back together, so I decided to go ahead, and do a hot valve adjustment at the same .008 intake, and .012 exhaust that the factory service manual calls for, which is the same I did when it was originally put back together cold.

Drove it about 15 miles, and then did the adjustment. I could have left the intake valves where they were, but I went ahead, and adjusted them anyway. All the exhaust valves were tighter than what they were set at cold, but I could still get a .012 feeler gauge under it, but it was a very heavy drag. Adjusted the exhaust valves to a slight drag.

Took it for a spin, and it was still running good.
 
Originally Posted By: TheKracken
I really want a 22re truck for the mpg and ease to work on. My 3.4 toyota is super nice but a weekend rebuild isnt happening.

22R is no Prius.

But they are a very stout motor. You can rebuild a 5VZ-FE in a weekend if you play your cards right and have another handy friend around.
 
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