Or an oil with a 10W winter rating, or one with a 15W or a 20W for that matter.
Toyo oil viscosity - 0W16
- Thread starter MaximaGuy
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You can access them online for free. Only have to pay if you want a printed copy
https://www.toyota.com/owners/warranty-owners-manuals/?url=https://techinfo.toyota.com/
Since we are on this topic anyways, I have a few questions I'd like to ask / discuss regarding these thermally efficient Toyota engines and cold weather:
In temperatures in the -13F to 14F or -25C to -10C range, (typical mid winter temps where I am), which grade between either a 0w16 or 0w30 would:
1. Get to operating temp faster?
2. Get to a higher overall oil operating temp?
3. Maintain a higher oil operating temp on the highway?
4. Maintain a higher oil operating temp in city driving?
5. Retain heat while sitting unused in-between shorter trips?
Currently I'm using 0w30AFE, in a non hybrid D4S 2.5, and I notice that in the temperatures listed above, fuel economy in city and hwy take about an approx 10-15% hit as compared to when it is above freezing. This is being calculated after the initial warm up, by resetting the onboard Fuel consumption calc when the coolant gauge gets to its typical max, and noticed even on long trips where warmup inefficiencies become less relevant. I suspect the oil is just not getting hot enough and am not sure how grade plays a role. Beyond fuel consumption, I am also looking at trying to achieve and maintain cabin heat at these temps.
I changed the oil and filter in my 2024 Rav4 Gas at 500mi with 0W-20 and again at 5000mi with 0W-20. It got around 36MPG consistently, which is as good or better than the advertised MPG throughout the summer on the 0w_20 (driving conservatively in ECO mode).
The free 10Kmile Toyota care oil change in early December used 0W-16 and I figured I'd run that free oil through January and February. My current MPG in cold January is ranging from 26-29MPG. Cold temps, defroster constantly running and winter blend gasoline all contribute to the drop in MPG.
It will get 0W-20 again in the spring at 15K miles as that is what I have on the shelf in the garage.
The free 10Kmile Toyota care oil change in early December used 0W-16 and I figured I'd run that free oil through January and February. My current MPG in cold January is ranging from 26-29MPG. Cold temps, defroster constantly running and winter blend gasoline all contribute to the drop in MPG.
It will get 0W-20 again in the spring at 15K miles as that is what I have on the shelf in the garage.
Higher viscosity would offset fuel dilution and condensation better in cold weather. Which is what I’d be more concerned with instead of the above list.
Exactly, in my Rav4 Hybrid bought brand new -- I have ran TGMO 0W16, Mobil 1 0W16, Mobil 1 Hybrid 0W20, RGT 0W20 and PUP 0W20 since ownership and zero difference in fuel mileage. The PUP and RGT have been the quietest soo far which I know indicates nothing.
Not too long ago many thought any oil less than a 30 grade would result in early engine self-destruction. These hold-outs will recommend you use a 30 or 40 grade oil that is, in my opinion, a waste. In my research using a thinner oil results in less wear during the early warm up period where most wear occurs.
Decades later and 100's of millions of cars using 16 and 20 grade oils last the same amount of miles. I have used 5 grade oils in 400 plus BHP cars with acceptable wear rates. I would try an 8 or 12 grade oil after an early, say 1,500 mile initial oil run. I assume no "severe" driving as in towing up long grades in mid summer Arizona weather. I would consider a 16 or even 20 grade oil if the engine was to be run very hot most of the time. I like to think I select oil viscosity by the application.
Ali
PS: I am working on a few new experiments. Initial results will be forthcoming in about two weeks.
Decades later and 100's of millions of cars using 16 and 20 grade oils last the same amount of miles. I have used 5 grade oils in 400 plus BHP cars with acceptable wear rates. I would try an 8 or 12 grade oil after an early, say 1,500 mile initial oil run. I assume no "severe" driving as in towing up long grades in mid summer Arizona weather. I would consider a 16 or even 20 grade oil if the engine was to be run very hot most of the time. I like to think I select oil viscosity by the application.
Ali
PS: I am working on a few new experiments. Initial results will be forthcoming in about two weeks.
That's a useful observation that is welcome here but one could not consider it a scientific experiment. You would need millions of miles to gain any statistically significant information. My best guess here is that the move from 0w-20 to 0w-16 buys you a couple of hundredths on an MPG improvement at best. It may seem irrelevant yet it is significant if considering 100 million vehicles @ 10k miles per year. Do the math if you care to.
The other half of this discussion is the reduction in engine life when using these "thinner" oils. I've not seen a lot of scientific evidence to back that up but I am a very open minded person. If anyone cares to educate me on this point I will gladly read legitimate articles that lead to the opposite conclusion. With that being said I am prepared to put HPL PPPCMO 0w-16 into the '23 Prius once it gets warm enough to work outside.
No once is wearing out a hybrid rav 4 running 0w16. Base your interval on use. When I was commuting 90-100 miles a day I ran this 10k intervals and didn’t sweat it.
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23 RAV4. I changed mine at 1.1k. I changed it again at 5k and every 5K after. You have assembly oils and debris in a new assembled engine along with more wear and silicon. I have the UOA to prove it. Change it early, 1-1.5k
The EPA specs calls for 41MPG in city but I get 36MPG and very light on the throttle. Does the MPG increase over time or EPA numbers are not accurate, as always with every car that I have owned.
It’s new and winter gas is in effect. This fall I was averaging 49 mpg in my corolla cross hybrid. It is rated at 45 city, so it is beatable. But it is not as good this time of year.
Also light on throttle is less useful with a hybrid, you can surge to speed and coast. Practice surge acceleration and go light on the brakes and see what that does to the mileage.
It feels like I post this weekly but I am about to click 90,000 miles on my 2020 Rav4 Hybrid and have used exclusively 0w-20. I still exceed the EPA estimates for fuel economy and notice no other differences. The dealer did do the second oil change with 0w-16 years back. Again to the comments in this thread, no difference.
Typically I change the oil every 6-7,500 miles. My oil doesn't even start to change color until after 5,000 miles. Why waste it. These engines really dont idle unless you need the heater and they manage their tempatures well. I tow a motorcycle trailer several times a year up some pretty steep grades, car does it effortlessly.
I notice a bump in fuel economy with non ethanol 91 octane though 2-3 MPG if you can find it.
Typically I change the oil every 6-7,500 miles. My oil doesn't even start to change color until after 5,000 miles. Why waste it. These engines really dont idle unless you need the heater and they manage their tempatures well. I tow a motorcycle trailer several times a year up some pretty steep grades, car does it effortlessly.
I notice a bump in fuel economy with non ethanol 91 octane though 2-3 MPG if you can find it.
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Yes I have a 2024 hybrid as well and I noticed a jump in MPG after around 3500 miles. I probably average city driving mostly at around 38 to 42. At least that's what the on board computer says.
I do see some crazy numbers when I am caught in traffic for some distance and it will jump from 40 to 51 MPG. But that is basically driving like an Undertaker in traffic. I'm guessing they do all their mileage research with a slight downhill and a Tailwind!
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I learned I had one when a family members 4th Prius started leaking there.
The gas version does its best mileage in slow -medium moving traffic as well.
Picked up our 2022 Rav4 Hybrid in 2023 after a 9 month wait. At what I saw was the first OCI at 6 month/5,000 miles as part of Toyota's 2 year free service, the service write told me it's a 10,000 mile OCI but we can take one of the 2 free ones. I said OK and went with that. They used 0W-20 bulk oil and a OEM Toyota 9015-YZZN1 filter. I asked if I can use the 2nd and last free oil change at 12 months and he said yes. At the 2nd and last change, they again used 0W-20 bulk oil and a OEM filter.
The manual states to use OW-16 and if 0W-20 is used, but you must go back to 0W-16 on the next change. If the dealer didn't do this going with 0W-20 at all changes should be fine. I've been going with 0W-16 M1 AFE since they have it at my local Walmart and easy to get.
The manual states to use OW-16 and if 0W-20 is used, but you must go back to 0W-16 on the next change. If the dealer didn't do this going with 0W-20 at all changes should be fine. I've been going with 0W-16 M1 AFE since they have it at my local Walmart and easy to get.
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First post!
I have a '24 Corolla LE AWD Hybrid. I did an initial break in oil change at 1k miles, did it myself because I knew the dealer wasn't going to do it per the Toyo 2 year free. 0W16 Toyota oil. After 10 months of ownership I was ready for the next oil change which would be the free one. Initially my dealer said I had to be at 10k miles. I reread the maintenance manual to the advisor and Toyota spec'd 10k OR 10 months, reiterating the 10 months. He said, ok, come in for the first free change. They did use the Toyota 0W16.
I have a '24 Corolla LE AWD Hybrid. I did an initial break in oil change at 1k miles, did it myself because I knew the dealer wasn't going to do it per the Toyo 2 year free. 0W16 Toyota oil. After 10 months of ownership I was ready for the next oil change which would be the free one. Initially my dealer said I had to be at 10k miles. I reread the maintenance manual to the advisor and Toyota spec'd 10k OR 10 months, reiterating the 10 months. He said, ok, come in for the first free change. They did use the Toyota 0W16.
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Here’s what I do: change the oil to 0w-20 or 5w-30 at 500 miles and then do another change at 5000 miles. Then get the factory change at 10k. The warranty will be fine. They don’t need to know about your extra changes.
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