I have never changed my own plugs before and I just got a loaner torque wrench from autozone, only problem is the range starts at 25lbs and my cars manual says the range is from 14 to 22 ft lbs. Is there a way to still use this wrench under 25???
Torque wrench for plugs..
- Thread starter zeke1985
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Have a friend show you how. After the first time its easy. Kinda like sexy time. You just snug the plug then give it an eighth of a turn . In 40 years of wrenching , I have never had a plug too loose or tight. .Let the sealing washer do the work.
No torque wrench necessary.
No torque wrench necessary.
Unless you are King Kong, I bet you can just dead reckon it. Got a 15 pound dog? Imagine the dog dangling at the end of a one-foot lever. That's 15 foot pounds I think.
Originally Posted By: chad8
Have a friend show you how. After the first time its easy. Kinda like sexy time. You just snug the plug then give it an eighth of a turn . In 40 years of wrenching , I have never had a plug too loose or tight. .Let the sealing washer do the work.
No torque wrench necessary.
Not all plugs have sealing washers. Some are taper seat(?)
you need a 1/4"drive torque wrench for that.. but I have yet to use one for plugs.
IT is semi handy for the 19 bolts on the transmission those are easier to mess up.
Have a friend show you how. After the first time its easy. Kinda like sexy time. You just snug the plug then give it an eighth of a turn . In 40 years of wrenching , I have never had a plug too loose or tight. .Let the sealing washer do the work.
No torque wrench necessary.
Not all plugs have sealing washers. Some are taper seat(?)
you need a 1/4"drive torque wrench for that.. but I have yet to use one for plugs.
IT is semi handy for the 19 bolts on the transmission those are easier to mess up.
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i use a torque wrench for spark plugs every now and then but you don't really need one for an oil drain bolt. just snug it tight with your hand but don't put your whole body weight into it or anything. i don't think you will have a problem.
I use a tiny dab of gray anti-seize on the threads. If you have a taper plug without a washer, you definitely should use it. In general, if you can run the plug down until it snugs, then a quarter-turn more. If you want to use a torque wrench, you'll need a 3/8th drive TR calibrated in inch-pounds.
Originally Posted By: zeke1985
I have never changed my own plugs before and I just got a loaner torque wrench from autozone, only problem is the range starts at 25lbs and my cars manual says the range is from 14 to 22 ft lbs. Is there a way to still use this wrench under 25???
You don't want to use that torque wrench for your spark plugs. Get one that is calibrated in lb-in. I have one with a range of 25 to 250 lb-in. Multiply desired torque in lb-ft by 12 to convert to lb-in; 14 to 22 lb-ft = 168 to 264 lb-in.
I have never changed my own plugs before and I just got a loaner torque wrench from autozone, only problem is the range starts at 25lbs and my cars manual says the range is from 14 to 22 ft lbs. Is there a way to still use this wrench under 25???
You don't want to use that torque wrench for your spark plugs. Get one that is calibrated in lb-in. I have one with a range of 25 to 250 lb-in. Multiply desired torque in lb-ft by 12 to convert to lb-in; 14 to 22 lb-ft = 168 to 264 lb-in.
The best advice I can give you is to find a good independent mechanic in your neighborhood who would let you watch him work on your car. I have been wrenching on and off for more than 30 years but I still prefer to watch and understand how a competent person does it if I had not done it before.
If this is the first time you are doing it, you absolutely need somebody to show or to watch over.
You will kill two birds by watching a mechanic do it :-
1) You will learn it
2) You would have found a good mechanic.
- Vikas
P.S. I strongly discourage you from using *any* torque wrench if this is the first time you are replacing the spark plugs in your car. You absolutely need to understand how much is 15 ft-lb of torque before relying on a torque wrench.
If this is the first time you are doing it, you absolutely need somebody to show or to watch over.
You will kill two birds by watching a mechanic do it :-
1) You will learn it
2) You would have found a good mechanic.
- Vikas
P.S. I strongly discourage you from using *any* torque wrench if this is the first time you are replacing the spark plugs in your car. You absolutely need to understand how much is 15 ft-lb of torque before relying on a torque wrench.
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I like to use a torque wrench on every bolt where I can find a torque spec. I have a factory service manual, so I can find a spec for almost every bolt.
I always use a torque wrench on my drain plugs.
To the OP-
If you don't know what you are doing, using a proper torque wrench is even more important. But, the one you got as a loaner won't work. In fact, I would never use one of those loaner torque wrenches. I'm sure it's been used as a breaker bar by a previous user and likely isn't accurate.
Torque wrenches are only calibrated from 20 - 100% of full scale. So, you need to find a wrench where your desired torque will be within that range.
If you plan on working on cars, torque wrenches are a great investment. While the Harbor Freight ones aren't great, they're good enough for a DIY'er. I have one that I use for lug nuts. I have other, nicer wrenches, but the HF one has performed well.
The 1/4" drive HF torque wrench goes from 20 - 200 in lbs. It's on sale right now for $20 and you can used a 20% off coupon on top of that. Also, it should be made in Taiwan, not China.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-2696.html
Here are some other USA made choices:
http://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-2956.aspx
http://www.tooltopia.com/gearwrench-85051.aspx
http://www.tooltopia.com/gearwrench-85050.aspx
http://www.tooltopia.com/gearwrench-85052.aspx
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944690000P?prdNo=8
The Craftsman would be a good choice if you want to get a beam torque wrench. The click type can be easier to use, but you can get the beam cheap and see how much you use it. You can upgrade to a click style if you find yourself using it a lot.
I always use a torque wrench on my drain plugs.
To the OP-
If you don't know what you are doing, using a proper torque wrench is even more important. But, the one you got as a loaner won't work. In fact, I would never use one of those loaner torque wrenches. I'm sure it's been used as a breaker bar by a previous user and likely isn't accurate.
Torque wrenches are only calibrated from 20 - 100% of full scale. So, you need to find a wrench where your desired torque will be within that range.
If you plan on working on cars, torque wrenches are a great investment. While the Harbor Freight ones aren't great, they're good enough for a DIY'er. I have one that I use for lug nuts. I have other, nicer wrenches, but the HF one has performed well.
The 1/4" drive HF torque wrench goes from 20 - 200 in lbs. It's on sale right now for $20 and you can used a 20% off coupon on top of that. Also, it should be made in Taiwan, not China.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-2696.html
Here are some other USA made choices:
http://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-2956.aspx
http://www.tooltopia.com/gearwrench-85051.aspx
http://www.tooltopia.com/gearwrench-85050.aspx
http://www.tooltopia.com/gearwrench-85052.aspx
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944690000P?prdNo=8
The Craftsman would be a good choice if you want to get a beam torque wrench. The click type can be easier to use, but you can get the beam cheap and see how much you use it. You can upgrade to a click style if you find yourself using it a lot.
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Originally Posted By: zeke1985
I have never changed my own plugs before and I just got a loaner torque wrench from autozone, only problem is the range starts at 25lbs and my cars manual says the range is from 14 to 22 ft lbs. Is there a way to still use this wrench under 25???
Can you tell us the make and model and year of the vehicle so we can determine whether the plugs are taper or gasket seat? That will determine how the spark plug feels when you start tightening it with a ratchet.
No, you don't need a torque wrench. Plugs that have a gasket usually need about 1/4 to 1/2 turn past hand tight to crush the gasket and seal it. Plugs that have a taper seat usually require about 1/8 to 1/16 turn past hand tight with a ratchet. It's all about feel if you're not using a torque wrench. Once the plug won't turn anymore with light/moderate force, STOP. You want it tight, but you don't want to kill it. It's not an axle nut!
I have never changed my own plugs before and I just got a loaner torque wrench from autozone, only problem is the range starts at 25lbs and my cars manual says the range is from 14 to 22 ft lbs. Is there a way to still use this wrench under 25???
Can you tell us the make and model and year of the vehicle so we can determine whether the plugs are taper or gasket seat? That will determine how the spark plug feels when you start tightening it with a ratchet.
No, you don't need a torque wrench. Plugs that have a gasket usually need about 1/4 to 1/2 turn past hand tight to crush the gasket and seal it. Plugs that have a taper seat usually require about 1/8 to 1/16 turn past hand tight with a ratchet. It's all about feel if you're not using a torque wrench. Once the plug won't turn anymore with light/moderate force, STOP. You want it tight, but you don't want to kill it. It's not an axle nut!
Plugs with gasket = 1/4 turn after zero [with NEW gasket!]
Tapered seat plugs = 1/32-1/16 after zero.
Tapered seat plugs = 1/32-1/16 after zero.
If you are still determined to do it without any help, at least watch bunch of youtube videos. Pay close attention as to where and how the ratchet is held, how many fingers are on that ratchet and how many grunts he emits during the tightening 
I can find few good ones if you want.
- Vikas
I can find few good ones if you want.- Vikas
Also be familiar with the feedback that the Torque Wrench sends through the handle when it reaches set torque for clicker types. The click is not necessarily audible, but rather felt by a subtle give. You want to stop applying torque at that point because you can continue tightening the fastener even after you reach the desired setting and end up over-torquing it. Don't ask me how I know this. Set the TW to a low setting like 20 lb-ft and attempt to tighten a lug nut to familiarize yourself with the tactile feedback.
The only TW I have that provides an audible click along with tactile feedback is my Precision Instruments split beam torque wrench.
The only TW I have that provides an audible click along with tactile feedback is my Precision Instruments split beam torque wrench.
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For my spark plugs, and anything else small enough, I have a beam type torque wrench that I use. Not as likely to have calibration problems as a clicker, and I assume they work closer to the bottom of their measurement ranges.
I agree you don't "need" a torque wrench for spark plugs but I don't think there's anything wrong with it. Manufacturers specify torque (ranges) for a reason. No harm in using them (along with a little common sense) if not confident in your "feel" yet.
I would definitely not use that clicker though.
I agree you don't "need" a torque wrench for spark plugs but I don't think there's anything wrong with it. Manufacturers specify torque (ranges) for a reason. No harm in using them (along with a little common sense) if not confident in your "feel" yet.
I would definitely not use that clicker though.
To those who don't think a torque wrench is *needed*, you've obviously not worked on a car where the spark plugs have only a small number of threads, and the heads are aluminium. It's easy to strip the threads on this configuration so proper torque is vital.
This is not your father's Oldsmobile with cast-iron heads and the old "quarter-turn past snug" no longer applies.
*EDIT* I know this doesn't apply to all cars, but unless you're SURE you don't have a potential issue, it's better to use a torque wrench.
This is not your father's Oldsmobile with cast-iron heads and the old "quarter-turn past snug" no longer applies.
*EDIT* I know this doesn't apply to all cars, but unless you're SURE you don't have a potential issue, it's better to use a torque wrench.
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
This is not your father's Oldsmobile with cast-iron heads and the old "quarter-turn past snug" no longer applies.
yes, it does. If anything, angle torque is even more important in these situations. Angle torque is a much more precise measurement than friction torque, period. You just have to make sure to use the correct spec (with or without washer, cast iron vs. aluminum cylinder head).
If you really believe that a friction-based torque wrench is "necessary" to tighten spark plugs, you simply don't understand the relationship between friction torque and bolt tension. Friction torque IS NOT a measurement of joint tension, it's simply an estimation--and a poor one. For most joints it's "good enough", but you're deluding yourself if you believe accurately represents the tension on the joint.
Bottom line: if accurate angle torque specs are available, they're always more accurate than friction torque.
This is not your father's Oldsmobile with cast-iron heads and the old "quarter-turn past snug" no longer applies.
yes, it does. If anything, angle torque is even more important in these situations. Angle torque is a much more precise measurement than friction torque, period. You just have to make sure to use the correct spec (with or without washer, cast iron vs. aluminum cylinder head).
If you really believe that a friction-based torque wrench is "necessary" to tighten spark plugs, you simply don't understand the relationship between friction torque and bolt tension. Friction torque IS NOT a measurement of joint tension, it's simply an estimation--and a poor one. For most joints it's "good enough", but you're deluding yourself if you believe accurately represents the tension on the joint.
Bottom line: if accurate angle torque specs are available, they're always more accurate than friction torque.
So far all my plugs for AL heads have been deep reach. Only time I use a torque wrench is on heads and internal stuff. I use the lug wrench I carry in the car for wheels.
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