Top Tier gas only, but the engine is PINGING !

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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
To much detergent has lowerd you octane. You are WAY overtreating Skip it. Fuel is garbage up here too. The more high comp high tech the motor is the worse it will run on bad fuel.
Ps - You may have a EGR issue. My noticed honda dumps big EGR top prevent ping (and unfortunately kill power) on bad fuel.


X a dozen! A brand new car and you're dosing it with aftermarket additives from decades ago.

I would want to check the EGR if present. This car should never knock much under any conditions even on the worst fuel. It should simply pull timing as needed.

Knock it too long and hard and you'll kill it. Get it scanned asap.
 
If your Hyundai dealer is like my Hyundai dealer, I am afraid they will give it back to you after doing nothing to it, and say they found nothing out of the ordinary. But please do take it your dealer, I'd like my suspicion to be wrong.
 
Since I just bought a '13 Rio, I'd be interested in finding out what the dealer said. I notice that Kia (and I assume Hyundai) are pushing their additives if non-Top Tier gas is used. I've tried to use Top Tier (QuikTrip, Shell and Holiday (on a trip to Minnesota)-- but was concerned about the technology when I bought the car. Please hit the dealer and post the results.
 
Under youtube, find ATD (or is ADT? ) This channel has robotic voice and has automotive related videos. The name is sometimes listed as Mandy Concpescion! Anyway, that channel has quite a few explanatory videos on GDI. It explains about carbon build up which needed engine tear-down in as little as 10,000 miles for the early adopters of the GDI technology. The latest GDI manufacturers have manage to control the timing of the fuel so precisely to fix the carbon problem.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Under youtube, find ATD (or is ADT? ) This channel has robotic voice and has automotive related videos. The name is sometimes listed as Mandy Concpescion! Anyway, that channel has quite a few explanatory videos on GDI. It explains about carbon build up which needed engine tear-down in as little as 10,000 miles for the early adopters of the GDI technology. The latest GDI manufacturers have manage to control the timing of the fuel so precisely to fix the carbon problem.


that would be a great news to me!! I really like to know more about this fix for GDI. but i cant find the ADT or ATD in youtube, either my search skill was too weak or my patient is low.
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Has the temp maybe gone up just a tad, almost not noticeable, but enough to change the management system? Thermostat running the correct range. Weather temps go up, slight ping.
 
maybe.. the sensor was bad to retard timming? or maybe spark plug/ignition need a check. my theory is, either ignition failed to respond properly, when ecm sense a possible pinging, and pull back timming.
 
Originally Posted By: j_mac
Had the car out today for a long cruise on a hot day. It was pinging again with very light throttle. Pushed the gas down a little more and the ping stops. I'm wondering if, when I push the gas down a little more, then the engine mapping is different enough to stop the ping -or- does the ping get severe enough that the computer instantly jerks out the timing because the knock sensor picks up more serious ping?
I wonder if it is just the nature of the design that, in the name of maximum fuel economy, the engine is tuned to be right at the ragged edge of ping in order to squeeze the most out of every drop of fuel?
Or is it an unnatural buildup of carbon? I mean the thing didn't do it last summer in the heat when the car was new.
Or, god forbid, is it something related to the Direct Injection (new for 2012 on this car) that is causing the ping?
The notion that the car may "need" plus or premium fuel does not jive with me. Its supposed to run fine on 87. Granted, I bet it will quit pinging on 93, but that isn't the ideal solution, considering the whole reason I decided on this pip squeak is because I can't afford gasoline at today's prices.

I planned on keeping this car for 200-300k miles. At this rate I would say the engine will beat itself to death right after the famous Hyundai 100K warranty runs out!

I planned on the car with the lowest price/best fuel economy that I could take care of (regular oil changes and Top Tier gas only) but it seems I'm gonna be in for some surprizes.

I'm beginning to think "Top Tier" is a whole bunch of [censored]! Or do you guys think its all Direct Injection related?



Greetings,

Admittedly I haven't read the rest of the thread.

Here's my
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Discounted to "free"

So for what is worth. I built and melted a few engines in my youth, won a few sanctioned races as well. (HeHe).

Light pinging at part (1/4 or less) throttle is almost always harmless, and indicates tuning to the "ragged edge" of maximum economy.

Light pinging at mid throttle should raise an eyebrow of concern.
Heavy rattling at full throttle for more than a second or two can and likely will produce damage.
I have picked up the pieces for the experience that was earned concerning detonation.
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In my day 11 to one compression called for racing gas. No exceptions.
Nowadays computer monitoring and control with the aid of knock sensors allows engines to survive on 87 with what used to be ridiculous compression ratios.

My gut says there is nothing wrong with the engine. If you want the part throttle knock to disappear with the added benefit of increased performance and gas mileage try some 93.

Good luck.

Rickey.
 
Man I wasn't happy today. I am a loyal chevron fuel gas. I have been using chevron for 6 years.

I am driving home from work. Low fuel light was on at 490 miles. I exist at my regular chevron station ( right next to highway ). So total miles was 491.1 miles.. It take 15.323 gallons of fuel. so basically .323 gallons to drive 1.1 miles. It is impossible. I think their pump is broken or not calibrated right..

I was hoping it will take 15.034 gallons.. I know about my car. so my point is not every pump # are the same.
 
Carbon.build up in DI engines is seen on the back sides of the valves not inside the combustion chamber. Carbon in the chamber would cause knock correct?

Just run 2 tanks of premium and see how it works. If problem persists go.to dealer.
 
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