I will be buying a Honda VTX 1800 sometime in the near future. I'm debating whether I should use syn or dino. I've heard people claim over the years that bikes with wet clutches can experience clutch slippage problems when using synthetic oil. I know M1 makes syns specifically forumlated for MC's with wet clutches, but I still can't help but wonder if I'd be more apt to experience slippage if I use syn instead of dino. What do you guys think?
To syn or not to syn
- Thread starter bottgers
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I've been using Mobil 1 15w/50 'red cap' automotive oil in my '97 Honda Nighthawk pretty much since it was new. It currently has over 48,000 miles on it and I have never experienced clutch slippage problems. A friend of mine put over 84,000 on a '96 Nighthawk and over 90,000 on a '91 Pacific Coast using the same oil and never had clutch issues. He now has a '01 W650 with over 30K and an '03 Bandit with over 15K and no clutch problems. People with bikes that have slipping clutches should look at weak clutch springs, misadjusted clutch cables (or air in the fluid lines for hydraulic clutches) or glazed surfaces on the clutch plates. Worn clutch springs usually are the #1 cause for slippage in Japanese bikes. BTW, I posted a UOA for Mobil 1 15w50 here:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001698
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001698
It's the same oil, one just says motorcycle on it and the other don't.
I don't believe that is true. The motorcycle oil is without the friction modifiers that can cause clutch slippage in some bikes. Some will work just fine and some won't. Some of the dirt bikes I had would slip the clutch unless I used a motorcycle oil.
Amsoil 10W40 does not have friction modifiers.
AMSOIL 10W-40 regular and motorcycle are exactly the same oil, just different labels.
There are no friction modifiers in it.
There are no friction modifiers in it.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=000163;p=1#000025
The link above talks about Amsoil 10w-40 car and motorcycle oils being the same with different lables only. I really like Amsoil in my bike; I've had no problems with clutch slippage and the transmission feels better and less notchy with Amsoil. Maybe that's because I baught the one with the motorcycle label.
The link above talks about Amsoil 10w-40 car and motorcycle oils being the same with different lables only. I really like Amsoil in my bike; I've had no problems with clutch slippage and the transmission feels better and less notchy with Amsoil. Maybe that's because I baught the one with the motorcycle label.
Here is my OA of amsoil 10w40. Lab says still use it. It has held up past amsoils recomendation to change after one yr.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001705
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001705
Have used Amsoil MC 10W40 in my Suzuki for years. It works great and have had no problems...
in my 1992 nighthawk i was using mobil1 Green cap. the redcap made my engine hot. and the valves noisey. "self-adjusting valves" clutch never slipped. then in my atv honda 300ex i used the green cap again. now in my kawasaki vn800B i use amsoil 10w40 highperformance oil. NO clutch slippage at all. none of my bike ever slipped on synth oil. and i didn't use motorcycle oil either
I messed up, but think I fixed it before many saw it. This is what goes here.
It mostly feels like you are driving in a pool of gear oil. The engine is turning, but the transmission isn't. Just like having the clutch pedal part way down. Usually what ever is causing it will quickly get worse. Older clutches had adjustments both at the pedal and the clutch. If you can find a threaded rod with nuts in the linkage, loosen the lock nut and adjust the other one to where you have a little play in the pedal, but the clutch is completely disengaged before the pedal is clear down. They tend to wear in the direction of no play in the linkage.
If you don't have any adjustment, the lining is either glazed or worn. I replaced the clutch in my old truck some years ago. It wasn't any fun, but I am afraid a FWD car with ABS would be a nightmare. Failure to replace worn linings soon enough can also mean lugging the flywheel to the machine shop to be resurfaced. Rotors are much easier to remove and have turned.
A slipping clutch needs immediate attention. Otherwise you could be stranded.
[ July 30, 2004, 12:07 PM: Message edited by: labman ]
a way to tell if your clutch is slipping is to be in 4th or 5th gear and give it alot of fuel. a quick twist. if the engine rev's real fast but the bike delays in the response to the engine. then your clutch is slipping.
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